rayj

hi, does anyone know where it's situated on the RB20DET block. reading threads on site, its mentioned for the rb25 and rb26, but couldnt find anything on the rb20. is it this by any chance? located beneath the exhaust manifold, and beneath anoher line which leads to the turbo?: thank heaps

this is for a r32 though. that engine manual is for r33

how long does it normally take to get rid of the air bubbles/pockets? i unscrewed the air bleed bolt and had the car idling for about 45 minutes while slowly topping up making sure the radiator was always full. after 45 minutes very small bubbles were still coming out... another thing, just dumping the contents of the radiator is about 4 litres, so that leaves another 6 litres or more left in the rest of the system. how can i drain as much as possible out of the rest of the system?

thanks for that. ive read through that thread before, but it's a little confusing. some ppl are saying to use the heater hoses on the firewall, others say to remove thermostat and do it from there, whilst others say to let the car run while leaving the top radiator hose off and letting it drain that way... nobody really mentions anything about air pockets/bubbles and how to properly remove them, as well as what to do in terms of the screw on the intake manifold... i really think there should be a sticky for this, it's a typical skyline engine, and this question gets asked often enough... a proper diy description of completely draining and refilling coolant on an rb20det.

Hi there I was hoping somebody could give proper step by step instructions on how to perform a full coolant system flush on a rb20det engine. I've done lots of searches, and found bits and pieces of information all over the place. I've read rb's are not the easiest to flush, and also have a screw which releases any air bubbles. So what needs to be done to perform a proper full flush, which hoses to start from... heater hoses, radiator hoses, thermostat? What's the technique used for releasing and making sure there are no air bubbles left in the system? Thank you

yeh i do have a cat convertor, and its interchangeable with my decat pipe. the front pipe has an extra 2 inches welded onto it?

just to make sure, is the front pipe a bit short? i was checking out my front pipe on the ceffy and it has an extension welded onto it...?

id be interested in a few parts, interior and exterior

hey, have u got a coin box? it sits drivers side just above the knee. its also the fuse box cover. also, electric aerial, sun sensor (square thing top of dash), stock steering wheel? ill get back to you if i think of anything else. cheers

thanks man, i just wanted to make sure cheers

hi, im searching for the coin box to suit the a31. it sits just above the right knee, drivers side. also is the fuse box cover. needs to be in good condition, no broken bits. thanks

hi, ive searched for this and cant find an answer. so basically how tight do these rings need to be? i have bought a new set of hks hipermax III, installed them, and have lowered my car by a few cm. i tightened the rings hand tight, then i got the c-spanner and tightened them up again as far as i could get it. is this enough? my previous coilovers were cusco, i would tighten the rings using the same method as above, but then id also get a hammer and hit the c-spanner once or twice to lock even more tighter... im asking because the locking rings on the hks are made from a much softer material than the cusco, almost like an aluminium or something. one or two hits from a hammer on the c-spanner caused a small part of the hks locking ring groove to chip off... so obviously i stopped doing that. so is hand tight enough? sorry if this is a stupid question, but id really like to know. thanks

im happy to report my car is now fixed and driving around beautifully. thanks shaun and boostworx turned out to be a faulty CAS...

i wanted to this but i couldnt access to a compressor. i can imagine finding alot of leaks all over the place. cheers man

yep thats what its exactly like. its at boostworx now, just dropped it off

cleaned it with some of that special electrical spray. didnt solve it looks like ill be taking it to a workshop

i was just reading the manual, and it says an automatic should have its timing set to 20. mine is set at 15 degrees... could this have an affect on the pronlem im experiencing?

thanks man, im gonna start checking those things one by one

these plugs are a brand new set. i have just bought them (bcpr7es-8), and have also tried band new bcpr6es-8. there is no difference. both these sets of plugs are gapped at 0.8mm. its just my luck that none of friends have skylines so i cant test a new set. im running new splitfire coil packs atm so im hoping they arent dead already, but who knows... i dont think its the ignitor because ive had problems with ignitors in the past, and this problem doesnt feel the same. im just trying to see if i can find a solution before i go to a workshop and get it looked at

unfortuantely i havnt got a boost gauge. ive checked all intake piping, hoses, silicon joiners, and clamps, everything is on nice and tight, but i will recheck it all again today. i really hope its just a leak somewhere...

hi, this problem has just appeared. the car used to work really well and ive made no mods to the car. its an rb20det with vg30 turbo. boost switch running 10 - 13 psi. plugs are ngk copper bcpr7es-8. this problem only occurs on boost. in the rev range before the turbo kicks in the car drives very smooth with no problems at all, no missfiring or anything. now when the turbo starts kicking in, it feels like boost is sort of coming on then cuts out, coming on again, then cutting out, on, out, on, out... its stumbling and is very choppy. u can hear the turbo spooling but there is no smooth power delivery... ive checked the spark plugs for clues. they have this white buildup on the tips. i have never seen this before on this car, its always been much darker. from what i know white buildup means running lean, but why would it start running lean all of the sudden? any ideas? could this be just a boost leak somewhere? anything else? what could the problem be? the plugs are new timing is at 15 new splitfire coilpacks new walbro pump thanks heaps

hi after an ignitor from redtop r31 or a31 cefiro. these have the part number 22020-58S01. the number is in blue. let me know if you have one for sale. thank you

hi after an ignitor from redtop r31 or a31 cefiro. these have the part number 22020-58S01. the number is in blue. let me know if you have one for sale. thank you

im running a standard ecu which has been tuned

i didnt mess with them. all 6 are brand new gapped at .8. the car isnt misfiring at all. ther basically isnt any power on boost, u can hear the turbo spooling up, but instead of feeling the power kicking in, the car hesitates/stumbles. this only happens in the rev range when the turbo starts kicking in, otherwise it drives perfectly. ive also noticed that if i gradually accelerate this hesitation/stumbling goes away. but if i hit the accelerator hard, then u can definately feel the problem, the car basically gets no kick from the turbo.