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Got this annoying squeal noise that's just started from somewhere around the front of the car. Can't figure out exactly where it's coming from. It only starts up once the car has warmed up. I have a RB20 Cefiro. Anyone have this problem before? How could I test to see if it's belts or something else? Thanks

Few parts for sale: RB20/RB25 Series 1/RB26 Coil Packs. Good condition. Work properly. $100 RB25 S1 Coil Pack Loom. Good condition. Some plugs are a bit cracked here and there, but everything connects and works properly. $30 R31/Cefiro/Laurel CAS. Square plug. Good condition. Suit RB20DET engines which use the older square plug. $50 RB20 Automatic Transmission ECU (TCU). Good condition. $30 RB20 Manifold Heat Shield. $10 Located in Adelaide. Message me on 0434 030 114 if you're interested.

No longer needed. Found one

After one 15 inch 205/60 second hand tyre. Had a problem with one of mine, need it quickly replaced. Located in Adelaide. Message me on 0434 030 114. Thanks

I would think so as well. Can confirm that the TCU is the same even though part numbers change. Fitted the R32 Gtst TCU in my Cefiro and it works as normal.

Stock RB20 Turbo. Good condition. No problems. Minimal/normal shaft play. $50 R32/R33 Split dump pipe. Good condition, but needs studs replaced. $20 R33 RB25 Wastegate Actuator. Good condition. $20 R32 Turbo elbow. Good condition. $20 Cefiro RB20DET Manual ECU. Good condition. $100 Parts located in Adelaide. Message me on 0434 030 114 if you're interested. Thanks

I'm not sure we're talking about the same thing. The part number of my AT ECU is 31036-73L00. Just about all R32, A31 and C33 AT ECU part numbers start with 31036-*****

Gtst I've had a look on FAST, they all have different part numbers, but sometimes that doesn't make a difference

Hi Just wondering if anybody knows if the Auto TCU in a R32 and Cefiro are exactly the same? Thanks

Hi Just wondering if the Auto TCU in a R32 and Cefiro are exactly the same? Thanks

Hi I've attached 2 pics showing some output from ECUTalk. I'm getting some really annoying problems. Car is a stock standard RB20DET Cefiro, apart from exhaust and intercooler. 1. Flat spot on acceleration. On initial acceleration timing gets retarded, then after a while it pulls back up again. You can see the dips in Graph 2 every time I accelerate. Graph 1 - RPM. Graph 2 - Timing 2. I'm not sure about the data in this one. You can see the oxygen sensor is more or less working as it should, and that the car is running rich. But Graph 2 has me worried. Is it normal to have so many lean spots? Graph 1 - O2 Sensor. Graph 2 - F/B O2 Lean. Thanks for any help

WTB R33 engine fan (no cracks/splits) PM me Cheers

Is this cable still available?

Hi This is meant to be so simple, but it's just not working... I have an automatic RB20DET Cefiro and I'm struggling with adjusting the idle. As an auto it's meant to be about 700rpm at 20 degrees timing. I warm the car up Set the car to 'Neutral' position Disconnect the AAC valve and turn the idle screw until I hit about 700rpm As soon as I reconnect the AAC plug the idle shoots up to 1500rpm. According to the manual when the AAC is plugged back in it's meant to stay around 700rpm... When I select 'Drive' the idle will drop, but as soon as it goes to 'Park' or N, it shoots up to 1500rpm again... Thanks for any help

Putting my stock RB20 turbo back on. Just wanted to confirm the number of restrictors used in the stock oil feed line. From what I understand it's 3? Both banjo bolts and one in the line? Thanks

Looking for one of these. Good condition, no cracks or cut fins. Let me know if you have one. Thanks

Thanks heaps

Just doing a final clean and noticed the stud holes don't look 100%. The first and/or second thread of each hole looks slightly damaged, as if things have been over tightened in the past. Is it okay, or should it be fixed? I'll also clean out the holes thoroughly with a small wire brush, some acetone or brake cleaner, and compressed air.

Found one. Search over

Thanks Missleman and 89CAL, helpful as always! I have all new studs, nuts, etc. Is there anything else to look out for, something I'm missing? The manual doesn't say much.

I'm ready to install the stock rb20 exhaust manifold and just wanted a few pointers to make sure I do it properly. The manifold has been machined so it's smooth and straight. I'm assuming the mating surface of the engine is straight as well...? Chances that it's not are probably very low, but I'll check with a straight edge anyway. I know the torque specs and sequence, but how should it be done? In one pass, or 2 or 3 passes? Should I torque down in one go, or is it better practice to tighten down evenly, in the correct sequence, once or twice before torquing down to spec? There are some nuts that are impossible to get a torque wrench on, do I just eyeball it, or is there a special method/tool? After installation is it necessary to recheck nuts after a few days of driving? What about things like gasket sealants? Are they overkill? If all surfaces are clean, smooth and straight with fresh gaskets, I'm guessing they're not needed? Thanks heaps

Hey If anyone has one of these for sale please let me know. Thanks

Please let me know if you have one available

Still searching for turbo and lines Message me on 0434 030 114

Ignitor sold.