SKYPER

With a aftermarket ECU like AEM ECU, hp gains can be up to 38rwhp (roughly 28rwkw) with a RB25DET at the same boost level. Here's a thread on the AEM forum about the 38rwhp gain (need to login to view dyno chart) - http://forum.aempower.com/forum/index.php/topic,12517.0.html A locally made Motec ECU probably would produce similar gains but needs an adaptor loom. Just fitting and tuning a HKS F-con pro (similar to Motec ECU) has seen gains of I think was 20rwkw over PowerFC on a RB26DETT. On a 2 litre motor, podfilter has a boost gain of roughly around 0.1bar (1.47psi) and 8rwkw. Exhaust has a boost gain of roughly around 0.2bar (2.94psi) and 18rwkw. I noticed GTR front mount has seen gains of 18rwkw. So 28rwkw gain with a ECU vs 18rwkw gain with a front mount intercooler.

For a daily driver, podfilter, exhaust, aftermarket ECU should be the first mods for any Skyline.

Here's some deep dish 20 inch old school wire type wheels - http://bakersfield.craigslist.org/bar/520247117.html Or what about these wheels from Japan for a classy look - http://www.wald.co.jp/news/back/200706/sab/s33c_2/index.html Can go over the top with 30 inch rims, like in this link below - http://99rides.com/videos/Bling_Bling_Ride...on_30_inch_rims Here's what that type of car with 30 inch rims looks like when in motion - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ImZqL_v17_g...feature=related Or like this H2 Hummer with 2 piece blue inner and polished outer 30 inch rims - http://99rides.com/videos/Bling_Bling_Ride...th_30_inch_rims Maybe another new trend, 40 inch rims -

FYI, that big wheel trend came from racecars which needed bigger rims to clear the huge brakes. 2 piece rims with black inners and polished outers trend from the US, seems to be another popular trend. Here's an example of an orange painted American car with rims that have the black inners and polished outers - http://www.westcoastcustoms.com/shop/pages...t=193&Ict=8

I've found out with one sensor that ECU doesn't always detect a slight fluctuation in voltage. For example the voltage difference was roughly 0.02v from recommended voltage for that sensor. Basically wasn't enough for ECU to detect sensor is faulty and produce an error code. ECU thought everything was working properly. Found this problem sensor by checking via volt meter at the sensors. That's interesting about the 5-6 times.

Still, get the steering angle sensor checked out. I guess another way would be to find the same type of car and swap over HICAS ECU's. Then see if the problem appears on the other car. I gather it would eliminate HICAS ECU as the problem. Also check the HICAS ECU plug as sometimes the plastic plugs can get bent (had this problem with engine ECU plug).

R32 had a faulty HICAS ECU at that time, so I guess that's why the rearend wiggled. Replaced ECU, no more heavy problems. Do you guys have an aftermarket boss kit for aftermarket steering wheel (could be interfering with HICAS steering angle sensor that's located behind steering wheel)????

In NZ there's Pukekohe racetrack where the Gibson R32GTR racecar raced. The current V8 Supercars race there as well. Gibson R32GTR lapped in the low 61sec around Pukekohe. From what I remember the current V8 supercars achieve around 56-58 sec laptimes. Anything below 60sec is said to be quick around Pukekohe. Then there's a rwd 600hp+ SuperGT R32 Skyline that laps 58 sec around Pukekohe with what I guess is the latest technology - http://www.dodsonmotorsport.com/cars.php Adrien's car (the exact same 600hp+ SuperGT R32 Skyline) in the above link is supposedly built by an ex V8 supercar engineer. I found some videoclips of the Croydon Wholsalers 400rwkw+ (near 700hp at flywheel???) in 2wd mode, 4wd R32GTR with upgraded holinger gearbox on Pukekohe racetrack. That exact same car, but more developed version for dragracing (above 1000hp) ran I think was a mid 8 sec pass in Australia.

About the link, you're welcome. That manual HICAS diagnostic mode does work on a R32 and it worked first time. Only problem was getting it into full diagnostic mode as HICAS ECU threw a tantrim. Basically the rear wheels felt like they were turning side to side and light flashed on the dash (R32 had a faulty ECU at that time). Driving backwards or forwards at less than 10kmh didn't do anything. I think you might need to turn the steering wheel between turning on ignition and the revs rising on the dash. I guess probably by the time revs have risen and settled at idle, a couple of seconds has passed. As far as I know the only difference is R33 has a separate HICAS system in the boot (not feed by powersteering resouvoir in engine bay). The R33 powersteering resouvoir is sometimes used when eliminating HICAS on R32.

It is said the heavy steering is a "low assistance mode" which happens when there's a HICAS ECU error code. I found a HICAS diagnostic test that you can do manually - http://www.overflow.250x.com/diagnostics.htm Another way is to go to your local Nissan dealer and check via Consult (diagnostic computer). Consult should be able to access the HICAS ECU error codes. Also other causes of HICAS problems can be weak voltage because of a faulty alternator or low fluid level in the powersteering resouvoir (R32). Sometimes the HICAS ECU (like a faulty AFM) can have bad solders. It's not worth fixing and I recommend a second hand replacement HICAS ECU. But be aware that GTS, GTS-T, GTR HICAS ECU's are supposedly not the same (part numbers are different). Make sure you have the correct replacement HICAS ECU.

Silver bulletR33, I guess you would have to look at some lap times, as that should shed more light on if it's a worthwhile mod or not. I've seen some footage of a Lemans racecar driver who reported that a Lemans racecar doesn't feel right and the suspension engineers change the suspension settings. The racecar was slower after some test laps. After a few suspension setting changes and test laps, the suspension engineers reverted back to the original settings they came up with and the racecar was faster. It seems that what a racecar driver says, is not always what's the best setting for a racecar. From what I remember, some GTR racecar drivers find the rear more predictable without HICAS. It seems they are used to driving cars without HICAS.

So that's roughly 7.5kg + 7.5kg + 2.5-3.5kg??? (piping from rear wheels to engine bay) = 17.5kg-18.5kg.

Below is what affects the R32 GTS-T (not sure about R33) - The steering on my car went hard while cornering at low speed. It was traced back to a faulty HICAS ECU. Tried to repair it, but ended up replacing it with a second hand HICAS ECU and problem was fixed. Somehow water entered the breathing holes (watermarks leading to breather holes) on top of the ECU. I hear that leaking rear windows can cause this problem. But in my case it was the boot not being pulled down enough (needed to adjust latch on lower part of the back of boot). The HICAS ECU was turned upside down, so breather holes were facing the bottom of the boot. Haven't had any problems with replacement HICAS ECU. Also be careful with HICAS ECU part no, as a HICAS ECU is different between GTR, GTS-T, etc.

Hardman69 I was looking at some photo's of the Mines R34 GTR demo car and it still has HICAS. Not sure if they have modified the HICAS (locked HICAS rack via using shims). Kinks, 7.5kg is the rack + arms and piping to rear wheels. It's not including the piping from rear wheels to engine bay and the parts inside the engine bay.

I weighed the R32 GTS-T HICAS rack with arms attached + piping to rear wheels. From what I remember it was around 7.5kg. The HICAS rack is said to weigh 5kg. I wonder how much the R33, R34 HICAS weighs???? Also HICAS is removed on high HP drag GTR's. I gather it's something to do with stability.

Interesting. The photo I saw had what looked like a stock HICAS rack. I wonder if the lockbar was added later on???? Or was it the other racecar???? I think it's N1 racecars that have to retain HICAS.

They do lock the HICAS on some racecars. The red coloured Bathurst R32 GTR would be one example. It looked like they used the stock HICAS rack but locked it and sealed the inlets up.

You can adapt the GTR gearbox to fit. You need to remove the chain, etc inside the transfer case and cut transfer case off, so it clears the floorpan (GTR has bump in the floorpan on drivers side for the transfer case). Then weld a plate over the hole. You should be able to use GTR driveshaft, diffhead, halfshafts, hubs, brakes, which should just bolt on.

HICAS can cause excessive oversteer when exiting a corner. Basically if you add alot of power around mid corner, rear of car steps out. I guess it depends on how hard you push it. I noticed with R34 GTR, a smooth driving style seems to help in preventing this oversteer problem on the racetrack. From what I understand suspension changes can reduce this oversteer. But doesn't feel the same as a car without HICAS. When HICAS is removed, the rear feels more stable through corners and on the motorway. It's so stable that the car tracks in a straightline on the motorway. But the downside is understeer around mid corner when cornering. This understeer happens on a 90 degree type of corner. With sweeping corners it feels similar to having HICAS but the rear follows where the front wheels have been. Basically it doesn't feel like the rear wants to break traction when exiting a corner. Also watch out for little bumps in the road / racetrack, as the rear could step out a little bit. Also smooth patches or painted lines on the road / racetrack could make the rear step out a little bit, especially when wet. Also reduces the bodyroll, even with stock suspension. And rear of car feels stiff. Have a look at this link below (road diagram on left side), as it shows you what a Skyline handles like, with and without HICAS - http://www.ne.jp/asahi/tomosang/skyline/da...i/photo/z17.jpg Left side is without HICAS and right side is with HICAS.

Upgrade the rubber intake pipe with a hardpipe, etc, if you want to run more than 0.9kg/cm2 with stock turbo.