Stagea_Neo

I've listened 3 times now with speakers turned up and cant hear it. stab in the dark. wheel bearing?

I had to clean mine out once due to poor water flow, also put new o-ring on the bottle neck which is two piece. From memory take off the plastic sump shield + 1/4 panel shield underneath the car and should have full access. 10/12mm bolts from memory. hopefully you just need to clean contacts with bit of sandpaper.

Correction to my above observation on the led not working under 12v. It does work with voltage lower than 12v. Tested it out further this arvo, connecting only the wing light into the brake loom and all good. But when connected in parallel with the brake light in the rear window hatch, nothing. Might try all led in the hatch brake light and see what happens. If no joy maybe I need a resistor or diode or something.. will need to suss it out.

Put the wing on, had to drill couple of extra holes for the loom and bolts. Painted holes so any exposed metal not exposed to moisture. Worked out alright. Just gotta suss out the voltage drop I have for the rear brake loom. Have 11.5v, which powers the standard brake lights ok (incandescent). But the LED in the wing needs at least 12v.

Found the fix for this issue after scouring the web. Hope this helps anyone else that runs into the same issue. Teeny little reset button just needed to be pressed. Peel back the plastic inner skin on the door and there it is!!! Couple of docs attached for reference/steps. AutodataNissan4_window switch.pdf Nissan Reset Procedure_window.pdf

Cheers Bodella, thought that maybe the case regarding tyre well.

Thanks Duncan, that gives me re-assurance in possibly going a 370z space saver.

Thanks for all the replies guys.. The Bogan - Thanks for that link, I checked it out and 1.07% difference to one space saver I've been looking at which is off a 370z. GTS Boy - 4WD. Duncan -I'm in the same situation now, as I upgraded to r34gtr vspec2 brakes since last using the stock space saver. I haven't trial fitted at the back yet, I assume it may foul the calliper as it sits further away from the hub to accommodate the bigger disc? I've ran the stock 16" space saver once when I had a puncture on the rear left (had r34gtt callipers at the time), didn't go over 60kmh and only needed to drive about 10km distance. Could really feel the car tilting toward the left rear. I dint like it at all. Soviet Merlin/GTS Boy - I haven't heard that before regarding the position of the space saver...thanks to you both for raising that point. Just went and double checked my tire size, I'm running 245/40/18. Regarding the 370z space saver I saw it is 145 / 70R18 107M. However in regard to hub diameter, apparently 370z is 66.1mm. Where as Stagea/Skyline is 66mm diameter. I've seen a couple of websites contradict these diameters in recent days in further searches, advising 66mm on Stagea/Skyline/370z or 66.1mm for all three. (grrrrrr). That leads to more questions ie. What is the definitive hub diameter of these vehicles? Could you run the 370z space saver (66.1mm) on a Skyline/Stagea (66mm) hub if those measurements are correct? Would it cause too much pressure on the studs without that snug hub fitment and cause them to crack or snap? Would the space saver run in an elliptical manner as not centred on the hub correctly even by .1mm? ps. I've got r34gtr rims.

Hi All, Just wondering what people use for a space saver when upgrading their rims to 18inch? Been looking around for something to replace the stock 16inch space saver as doing a few long trips and don't want to get caught out Cheers, Pete

Cheers for the reply and advice Duncan. Yeah a bit of wishful thinking on my behalf. Hoping Nissan being Nissan, they plan ahead. ie. any of those with wings have have a hole pre-fab from factory whether it has the light/wiring for brake light or not.

Hi All, Having an issue when putting the drivers window up. It goes up manually ok to the correct hight, but it wont do it automatically. Going down, manually and automatically work fine. It happened after the window stopper broke off and the window began travelling beyond it's normal height. When this occurred it automatically put itself back down to half height. I've since replaced the stopper and reinstalled window, everything lining up nicely. I've tried disconnecting the battery with the window all the way down, then reconnecting the battery and putting the window all the way up and then all the way down. This normally works and gets the automatic feature working again any other time I've disconnected the battery. Any other suggestions? Cheers, Pete S2 Stag by the way.

Hi All, I managed to locate a Dayz wing in Japan (at long last/excited). Just wondering has anyone swapped theirs at all? I'm curious about the rear hatch on the right, is there a pre-existing hole with grommet under the original wing where the wiring can feed through? Cheers, Pete

Thanks for elaborating. It's the stock turbo, for the future I was eyeing off the hypergear high flow service. SS2 profile for the rb25neo advises 'Price includes an a larger 38mm billet internal waste gate fitted'. That's where my concern comes from.

Cheers. Yeah I was a little worried about this situation as posted by zoom zoom on page 3 of the thread.

Hope it all goes well 👍.

Some c34 inspiration

Mines an RS4V as well. Personally I use the Tein Flex coilover. But i'm pretty confident this is the page to checkout, with the eyelet type mount. https://bcracing.com.au/collections/nissan-stagea-rs-x-four-awd-eyelet-type-rear-mount-wgnc34-96-01 I'll be under the car on the weekend so can take pics if you need something to compare/refer to?

Hi All, After any suggestions or advice on how to proceed here, whether it be off the shelf parts or custom. Been looking at different exhaust options. Definitely don't want one of those off the shelf cat back systems as still be using stock turbo outlet and down pipe. In addition to that, the bell mouth dump pipes concern me in regard to the internal welding and wastegate valve/flap fouling on each other. I read a thread in here somewhere the other night about that occurring. So moving forward I plan to go the tomei expreme turbo outlet pipe which has the 76.3mm / 3inch outlet. However i'm finding it hard to locate a down pipe that goes to the cat which is the same diameter all the way through. The down pipes I found seem to all be 60mm/2.3inch (stock size) from the turbo outlet and step up to the bigger diameter at the cat end even quoting 80mm. ie. jjr, blitz,apexi. I just want to match everything to the same diameter. Beyond that from the cat to the muffler is pretty easy to get sorted at an exhaust shop. I plan to finish of with a magnaflow 3inch inlet, dual 3inch outlet and maintain stockish look. Cheers, Pete

Cheers for the feedback. Yeah I've already got the superpro outer adjustable bushes, been in for about a year now. Bought the inner non adjustable superpro bushes last week and planning to install this week/next week. I'm kinda set on going polyurethane path to help stiffen things up a bit and longevity. RE: Is there a good quality aftermarket replacement arm which already has new bushings but also adjustable camber? Rather than the eccentric bolt? Yep, Hardrace and Cusco do them about $450-$500. Rubber bush. Would have been the easier option.

Cheers. I wonder how many ton pressure they need. I've got some box steel, angle iron and a 2 ton bottle jack. might make my own press. Re: Roughnuts will butcher........ GEEEEEZ!! makes me cringe. I believe in having the right tool for the job.

I'm not sure if this helps or not. I recently upgraded to R34 Vspec2 Brembo's on the S2 Stag. I used this braided kit: https://safebrake.biz/home/292-skyline-gt-r-r34-awd-26tt-brake-upgrade-safebrake-performance-hoses.html Beyond this I got the R33gtr front brake hard lines, that go over axle hub just behind the dust plate and all lined up beautifully. The braided lines were same length as the stock ones. Needed to buy 2x longer bolts for one of the hard mount points for the braided hoses up the front. Trim rear dust shields so could fit 322mm discs. It's a pretty straight forward job. ps. the r33gtr hard brake lines have the flare nut so should bolt straight into your callipers.

Hi All, Just wondering if anyone has changed their stock front upper / inner control arm bushes for nolathane and has any advice on doing so? See pic circled in red with the bushes im referring to. Can I do it myself? ie. with an air chisel and a suitable sized/diameter socket on the end. Or is it a hydraulic press job? I've already done the outside bushes, the originals popped of easy with the air chisel as they had a little lip to get some purchase on. Cheers, Pete

Hi There, Just thought I'd update this chat with a wiring diagram i drew up that got my heated/electric seats up and running in the old Stag. Had a few queries over the years and more recently. Pete seats.pdf seats1.pdf

ps. tiptronic... was it a stock r34 gtt wheel or momo?

How did you go with the swap? I'm interested in doing the same thing. Were you able to swap over the tiptronic buttons as well?