Jack88

mate give me a challenge lol,i do hate thos lil gutter driveways but there not that hard.ill take a picture of mine tomorrow for u guys!mine i have to go full lock to the left and only the left at a sertain point to get out with out scraping with about 4mm clearance.to get in i have to hit it at a sharp angle until i get the front bar over and then i can straiten up.

hey guys, dont use the ones from carmate lol there just narva trailer lights you can buy for like $10.i ended up getting a pair off ebay,they apear to b oridinal factory items or a very good copy!they are clear 75mm round ones with a bracket already fixed to the back of them.they were pritty expensive for what they are but they were the only ones that looked half decent. Jack

hey mate, the speaker not working wud be another totally unrelated problem.check your wiring,if the other channel on the amp is still working fine then your amp should be fine (hopfully) so it should just be a wiring isue.also check the connections on the back of the speakers (inside the doors). Jack

indeed.

lol get up on the wrong side of the bed today did we? your a clown mate,if you dont have anything constructive to say dont say any thing at all!

i would think your line would win.a mate of mine has a VN SS that makes 193 rwkw's and my 33 RB25DE stays head to head with it up to about 120 km/h (fastest weve taken them out to then backed off).my 33 would be lucky to make 120 - 130 rwkw's with the mods it has. Jack

"Import S13" you dont happen to live right next to kym street do you?i wont say the actual street you live on on here obveiously.

heres my baby,the kit is going on tomorrow so ill take some new pics after that happends. Jack

haha yes i was thinking the same thing!just rememberd that its the seccond car featurd on the top gear dvd called back in the fast lane. Jack

haha the noble or my 33 in the back ground?its the only one in australia.beleve it or not its actually the pool cleaning guys car .yes lol very expensive.if anyone here watches top gear it has been featured on there a few times.it sounded very nice too but so it should for a 2.5 lt twin turbo . Jack

had a nice visit today and a chance to take some pictures. enjoy. Jack

hey guys iv got a genuine nismo 400R kit and i decided to give the fiting a go my self.iv taken the standard front bar off and held the new one up to where its soposed to go and the front reo bar is in the way in alot of places.i asume its defectable to cut this bar as its a crash barrier of some sort but how do other people fit these kits?the s2 front reo is different to the s1 as iv seen its smaller in size so would this all go on together with out having to cut the reo?i can take pictures if people need. cheers Jack

spotted a white 33 maybe a GTR...had a GTR kit on it doing a u turn behind me as i was pulling out of the jaycar carpark at clovelly park. all i could hear was ur BOV and the spoolage .i was driving the dark red/marron 33 with sparco racing rims.

hey mate, this is a multimeter. http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?I...mp;SUBCATID=546 with that amp you shouldn't really be runing into too much problems. what i ment when i said put the multimeter on 200 on hte V side of things.200 is just the range that the multimeter is going to display on the screen. so it would display something like 12.8v.the V stands for volts. when you test a battery with a multimeter the multimeter tells you how many volts the battery is so lets say you tested yours and it said 12.8v.now start the car and do the same thing again,put the probes onto the battery terminals and see what the multimeter says,it should read between 13.5 - 14.4 volts. a really good condition alternator will charge at around 14.4 volts which is excelent.an alternator thats in bad shape would probly charge at 13 volts or something. ok the earth(s) you need to upgrade will be the one(s) going from the negative battery post to the chassis of the car and the one that goes from the same place to the engine block.your car may have both or more.im not sure where the battery is in a R34 but in the R33's its in the boot so there will only be 1 main earth going from the negative battery post to the chassis right under the battery. R33LIN, in your boot remove the trim thing that sits in front of the battery.the ground im talking about upgrading is the one thats black with a yellow stripe that goes from the negative battery terminal to the body of the car right under the battery.the cable is about 40cm long if that. and yes its because the stock ground is too small.the stock ground was only ever intended to be enough to run the car and electricals,when you start adding amplifiers and things to the electrical system the stock earth will struggle to pass the amount of current needed to run the car + the extra amps uv just added to it.say the stock earth is 6 gauge and youv just installed a amp that requires a 2 gague power and earth wire,the 6 gauge earth is just simply too small.and yes i would recomend people that are runing large amps or a few small ones to upgrade the earths but i say if there isn't any diming of lights or any thing then leave it.it wont hurt to upgrade them but if things are fine the way they are there really isn't much point.and i would just replace the length of factory earth to a larger gauge. say 0 or 2 gauge if you runing large gear..that should keep things safe without any probs. punisher6942, ahh someone that has experienced the uslesness of caps first hand .yes the optimas and so on are great batterys.as stated they gernerally have a larger CCA,RC and AH rating than the equalavent sized lead acid battery.a great advantage of the dry cell or "deep cycle" batterys is that they can be run flat and charged back up again with out causing any damage to them. tyaos, were the subs in the same box?if yes does the box have a divider down the middle so each sub has its own little enclosure inside the one box?your amp isn't like a light switch,when its turned on it doesn't make all its power like that.think of it like a dimmer switch....the more you turn it up the brighter the light gets.your amp works the same way,the more you turn the volume up on your head unit the more power the amp makes.all i can think of why it sounds really bad now that youv taken one sub out is that the sub might now be out of phase with the rest of the system,the crossovers on your amp might not be set properly,or as i asked before when you took the one sub out the one left in the box might now be in a box waay to big for it,and or theres a massive air leak where you took the other sub out. enough from me for one post i think Jack

indeed the 1500 monos are strapable.together they are listed to make 3000 WRMS.what subs do you have mate?good luck fitting them in the boot of ur 33 lol Jack

hey, ok first thing you should do is forget about the cap.they are purely a bandaid fix or as i like to call them car audio jewlery.they look nice but dont really do much.if any one would like to dispute this fact i shal provide the tests that were conducted to prove it :sorcerer: .i would highly recoment upgrading the factory earths.what amps and subs do you have mate?if you have a multimeter have the car runing and set the multimeter to 200 on the V side of things and put the probes on the battery.post up the voltage that it displays too. your lights are dimming due to voltage drop and going by what you have told us already id say your still using the stock ground which 95 % of times will be the cause. Jack

hey mate, my indicator relay is at the very bottom of the steering collum cover.when ur sitting in the drivers seat lean forward and stick ur hand under the dash thingo under the steering colum.ull find the buzzer thing that beeps when the keys are in the ignition and the door is open to the left of that and a lil higher up is the relay.now you could have done 2 things to stop them all working.when uv installed these new leds you have shorted the wires out and blown the fuse.easy way to tell that is to turn ur head lights on.if you have no parkers or dash lights youv blown the fuse (located in the fuse box in the back to the right hand side of the battery,its the first 10 amp (red) one u get to from the front.or you could have just not pluged in the hazzard switch back in properly,hence why non of the indicators are working so check that again.other then that theres a fuse for just the indicators in the fuse box near the steering wheel. hope that helps. Jack

ok guys i had another poke around in there,so far i havn't been able to by pass it and still keep the demister operational.i had a play with the "black box" the one that clicks when the central locking operates and found the wires that have power when the lock or unlock function is trigerd.iv yet to try it but ill try and route a wire straight to the switch on the drivers side door and triger it from there and then cut the lock triger wire on the black box so i dont loose the lock function on the passengers side door all together.on another note i found the triger wire for that anoying buzzer under the dash on the drivers side that beeps when the keys are in the ignition and the door is open.as many of you would know simply unpluging this buzzer means you also loose the power windows and what not. i havn't tryed it yet but hopfully cuttin this wire will cut the buzzer out and still enable the windows to work. ill take some pictures and give you guys some pin outs tomorrow when the camera is charged. Jack

hey, i found a problem with your mod. that green wire is also the power wire for the demister for the rear window.once cut you will loose the demister.well its like that on my s1 33.ill have another play with the modual and see if i can cut the feed further down the line after the power has already been routed off to the demister control switch.ether that or run a new power wire to the switch so it can still operate. Jack

spotted MissR33 parking next to me in collonades car park!

use plast -X from meguiars. the plastic has oxidiesed from ur head light globes or something,cant remember the exact reason. Jack