Cassbo

It is for the sizes I use; 235/45 17 and 255/40 17. For some reasons other sizes use higher pressures...

lol, I think you are taking the term "retard" out of context... Rich - More fuel is thrown into the engine to lower the air to fuel ratio Retard - Ignition timing is changed so that fuel ignition happens later What does this mean? I'm no mechanic but my understanding is that the ECU thinks the engine may be experiencing something that may cause damage to the engine and is actively trying to protect it.

I have R32 GT-R seats on standard rails in my R33. A friend of mine has my R33 seats in her R32

AFAIK, legally your tyre pressures must be between what is on the tire placard (minimum) and the maximum inflation pressure for the tyre you are using (obviously maximum). As a rule of thumb I like to have my tyre pressures about 3/4 between whatever is on the tyre placard and the maximum inflation pressure for the tyre. For example, in my R33 the tyre placard says 32psi and the maximum inflation pressure for Federal 595SSs in the sizes I use is 36psi, so I like to keep my pressures around the 35 psi mark. If I were to take these tyres to the track (usually I don't...) I would probably bump the pressures up by around 5 psi to reduce tyre wall flex a little. Keep in mind that these are my preferences. having higher (not to be confused with over inflated) tyre pressures lead to a harsher ride but improved grip, steering feel and apparently fuel economy. TL;DR - Can't really say for sure without knowing your tyre placard, maximum inflation pressure and how you want your car to feel.

Thanks Eric, that's just what I needed Well... for future reference this is how not to win at Texi

Yes, the understeer is strong in Cass' R33... at least when Dave drives it Have a few video's of Gimpy's GT-R, Aaron's EVO (including helis) and my car that I will upload as soon as I replace my current video cropping software

Seriously, just drift it as it is. If you don't like an aspect of your car you will either quickly find out and change it or learn to just deal with it. Standard cars aren't undriftable, it's just harder Though... just to contradict myself, it is handy to have something to hold you in place. In my experience a harness with a factory seat works much better than an aftermarket seat with a factory seat belt. Grabs less attention from the police too

THIS! My daily is the 3.0L Liberty and it's very nice. It's not slow (by no means fast though lol), it's comfy and is also fun to drive! Can't really compair it to my brother's EVO 7 though... on one side you have a luxo-barge and on the other you have a performance car, but with this in mind a luxo-barge is usually better to drive every day right?

Myself and a mate both have Gates Racing belts in our Ricelines and we get the same noise. We have narrowed it down to the following: Over tensioned Gates Racing belts are just noisy. For the moment I CBF pulling it all apart just to check if it's over tensioned, but it is on my "to do" list

This Cruising around I just change gears. Not by noise, not exactly by feel... I just throw it to the next cog. Apparently I'm known to shift below 2000 rpm like this, especially in my Subie

Lets see... what did I do to my car to make it driftable... I think I took it to Oran Park... pic related On a more serious note, swaybars will make your slides easier to catch. Other than that you really don't need much, especially if you are just starting

Fixed post

To be honest, not really fussed. My car has survived this long without an oil cooler so what's another 2 or so months

This is half true for a GT-R, the factory item flows quite well. A SMIC on the other hand... lol Will it make an improvement in performance? I believe so, a FMIC will be in an area with better air flow as well as being larger so it won't be as prone to heat soak How much of an increase? No idea, I upgraded the SMIC in my R33 to a R34 SMIC

400rwhp is almost the same as 300rwkW. Just do to the R33 what you did with the VL and you will be set. I mean, same engine means same results amirite?

It isn't a matter of the oil deteriorating, more of a matter of contamination. Not too sure about DSG or auto boxes but I know when change the gear oil in both my Subaru and Skyline there is ALWAYS a fine metallic sludge in there that I presume (and hope ) is my synchro gears, slowly sacrificing themselves so that I may change gears with some degree of smoothness. The longer periods without an oil change, the more of this sludge ends up in the gearbox, the more chance of the sludge getting caught where it shouldn't be and potentially causing damage.

A mate of mine was one of the fireies that helped pulled Aaron out... apparently the roof needed to be cut off to get at him Still not quite sure how/why the southbound car ended up on the wrong side of the road...

While not required it is recommended. Last year (or the year before) some guy in a Subaru Forester decided to run out of skill and get stuck. Backed up traffic around Thredbo for nearly have a day

With a multimeter. Check the voltage on the coil side

Compensate a lack of power with dirt drops and ridiculous entry speeds! It's what the cool kids do in KE70s