Cassbo

lol bump

That's just how I roll There is one at Wakefield, but it isn't very good... if I remember to bring mine I'll let you borrow it

I'll admit, I have fallen off the track there once or twice (or if you ask Duncan, every lap) and usually my car is pointing towards the track...

I'll have to disagree with gregor... I found a higher tyre pressure on street tyres works well as street tyres do not have as reinforced sidewalls as semi slicks. This should reduce tyre wall flex which is important as you are going to be a lot harder on your tyre's sidewalls than if you were on the street. I haven't used street tyres on my Skyline for a while now, but when I did I kept my tyre pressures around the 36psi cold mark, then at the track bump them up to around 38-40. After a session I would set them at around 41-42psi hot... but that was when they were well and truly overheated and didn't want to grip the track anymore and you want to avoid doing this too much as it degrades the rubber. This may seem high, but my tyre wear was still consistent with under inflation (and/or someone who uses the steering wheel as a brake of sorts ) My previous comment still stands, focus on getting consistent (not to be confused with fast) lap times before trying to change too much with the car EDIT Asking about tyre pressures is relatable to asking how long a peice of string is

+11ty! Not that it effects me much... Newport is 15 mins away lulz

I have to disagree on that... stickier tyres will be harder on brakes as you will be able to brake harder and later than you would if you had street tyres. A combination of Project Mu HC+ pads and Porche Cup slicks absolutely ruined my standard rotors

I thought you where going to bring the dori pig in the first place!

My understanding on tyre pressures are as follows... there are so many variable factors that there is no one ideal tyre pressure for any car/track as it comes down to the car, tyre and driver preference. If this is your first track day on street tyres, I would suggest simply increasing your tyre pressures by around 2-4 psi higher than what you would usually use on the street and leaving it at that. You will increase your times faster by learning what lines to take than altering your tyre pressures Personally, I aim for around 30psi hot on all corners on my not quite standard R33 on Federal 595RS-Rs. Don't know if it's right or wrong, but it's what I use lol

Have you thought about just getting some springs and shocks (EG, the old sydneykid suspension kit that used bilstein shocks with a different manufacturer of springs). Chances are you will get a better ride without compromising handling (especially since Tein Streets aren't a monotube shock)

Can I get a part number for a Veilside body kit for my Subaru Liberty?

The "Tuned by STi" models have 20kW more than the Liberty GT and 3.0R, so obviously will be faster. The non "Tuned by STi" GT is only 0.1 seconds faster to 100km/h than a 3.0R. The "Tuned by STi" models are not cheaper. A pre facelift 3.0R can be had for around $20k and a non "Tuned by STi" GT can be had from around $17 but a genuine "Tuned by STi" still go for around $26k No one really modifies the EZ30 in the 3.0Rs, though I have seen on the internet people turbocharging them and getting around 350kW at all wheels... definitely not cheap to get there. If you really want a modifying platform I would do what most people do and get GT. For me the GT and "Tuned by STi" where considerably more expensive to insure... around $500 a year more than my 3.0R. I assume this is simply because they are turbocharged. Kinda stupid though, they have identical specifications... My thoughts if you decide to go down the Subaru path? "Tuned by STi" > 3.0R Spec.B > GT. My thoughts overall? Get a GT-R (but that's just me ) BTW, on the subject on BMWs a guy I work with has been waiting a few months for parts for his E36 318i to come in. You think Ricelines are bad

The price of being essentric I'm afraid, you really can't have it both ways. That being said, you mentioned that you need to replace your oil cooler... as far as I know there is no standard oil cooler in any R34 except for the GT-R. Assuming that I'm correct and you have an aftermarket oil cooler, why wouldn't an aftermarket radiator suit your needs?

Has your panel beater considered using second hand and/or aftermarket parts sourced locally?

If you get a Liberty get a GT Tuned by STi or a 3.0R Spec.B. I believe the non Tuned by STi GTs did not come with a 6 speed manual or Bilstein suspension and as a result many people on ozliberty and club.liberty.asn say that they feel "incomplete" in comparison. I own a MY05 3.0R Spec.B and my only real complaints are a lack in fuel economy in heavy traffic and the clutch pedal feels extremely weird.

sif chains, just import snow tyres from the US

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I think people are suggesting using the starter motor to crack the harmonic balancer bolt because they can't conjure enough strength from their girly arms On both my R31 and R33 I removed this bolt the same way, 4th gear + ratchet + hollow square section for extra leverage. Leaving the car in neutral just spins the engine and placing the car in 1st, 2nd and reverse tend to make the car move forwards and backwards. 4th gear seems to hold the engine well enough to crack the bolt NOTE: Cassbo may or may not have the girliest arms around...

I changed my timing belt without setting it to TDC, I just made sure I didn't move anything until I put the belt back on. Granted after I put the belt on I made sure the cams and crank lined up with their respective marks

It's at the end of Warawara Circuit in Quakers Hill

Last year I rode shotgun on a MX-5 drive that took that route. Was a very long day but the drive was fantastic! The driver was also kind enough to let me drive Mac Pass and RNP on the way home (she may or may not have been exhausted )