SHY 33

$180 ono.. ??

Location: Gig is in Brisbane @ QSAC Stadium / Ticket is located on Gold Coast Condition: New Reason for Selling: Not wanted, not psyched to go. Asking Price: 250 Delivery Methods: PickUp Contact Info: Ph: 0406 197 226 Extra Information: I have ONE single ticket for the AC/DC concert on 25th Feb '10 (4 days from today). I am chasing $250 or nearest offer for it. I'm in Ashmore on the Gold Coast, payment on pick-up is preferred Need to sell ASAP due to concert being so close Ticket is for the section 'Arena 1' which is literally right in front of the stage Link/pic to where this section is in relation to the stage can be found here.. http://www.showbiz.com.au/Tickets/ticketin...p;city=Brisbane My contact No. is.. 0406197226 Call anytime before 2pm is preferred (workplace restricted), msg/txt after 2pm if possible. Cheers ! Jasyn

Vehicle is now SOLD !! :banana:

Bump-a-lump due to tyre-kickers cheers

bump.. still no sale

Cheers to all that came & inspected today, no funds have been exchanged yet so sale is still open until that happens.. Cheers.

Location: Gold Coast, QLD (Ashmore) Item: Damaged Series 1 '94 R33 GTS-T, Has been sitting garaged for almost 2yrs Started fortnightly & driven around the block to keep things running smoothly Missing Head-lights & front guards Auto TEIN Coilovers all-round GREDDY pillar mounted Boost & Temp Gauges (Running solid 0.8bar) 17" N1 Altia Racing rims - **extremely rare genuine N1 rims** (couple slightly grazed) Genuine GTR front bar (damaged but easily repairable) Blue L.E.D dash & Climate Control mod (kit from 666DAN) 3" exhaust, HKS Hyper Muffler Iridium Spark Plugs (less than 1000k's use) Pivot turbo timer Mostly standard, was easily the smoothest mechanically of all the 10-12 i test drove when purchasing ....... Thats all i can think of so far..... Sold "As Is", Damage is reasonably minor, besides the obvious of guards & head-lights missing any repairs if buyer is not pulling the vehicle apart would include.. Both passenger & drivers headlight area need panel-beating back to normal to have flush fit of guards & head-lights. Passenger door has minor grazing - can be repaired or replaced depending on fussiness. Extreme passenger-side corner of bonnet under windshield very slightly bent. 2 Wheels need minor repair - filing, filling, sanding, re-painting or powder-coating. Somehow over the past fortnight, the car has picked up a 'hunt' at idle once warmed up, I haven't looked into it but am assuming its a vacuum leak from a perished hose - Has smooth start-up before warmed up. Drivers-side sway-bar link slightly bent (small uni-joint joining bar to chassis) ....... Thats all i can think of so far & should be it..... Will also add before anyone query's - The GTS Decal on the back WAS a GTS-T decal, I removed the '-T' to give a more 'sleeper' feel to it. Alot of cops assumed it was non-turbo thanks to that tiny little "mod". I didn't get asked to '"Lift the bonnet son"' anywhere near as much after removing it Reason for Sale: Just had a little one, so looking to start a trust-fund for the little guy. Have no use for a turbo 2-door sports-car anymore She who must be obeyed, now insists on a 4-door family oriented car Price & Payment Conditions: $3k or nearest reasonable offer.. Contact Details: Jasyn.. Mob - 0406 197 226, call anytime after 2pm to 9pm. Please MSG/TXT outside these hours Definitely serious buyers only !! Please do not ask if i will strip it, i'd like my garage space back Cheers for looking.

SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD !! !!! !!!! SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD !! !!! !!!! SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD !! !!! !!!! SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD !! !!! !!!! SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD !! !!! !!!! SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD !! !!! !!!! SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD !! !!! !!!!

Have a Ticket for "Soundwaves" for sale, i'm not going coz something else has come up. It's THIS Sat, so need the ticket sold ASAP ! Chasing $80 for it (originally $110) **Official Show Disclaimer** Due to the intense strobe lighting and size of the Nine Inch Nails light show at Soundwave 09 there is the possibility that it may induce Epilepsy. ... :laughing-smiley-014: :laughing-smiley-014: That right there, tells you it's gonna be a killer show !! Full Band Line-Up / Listing is here.. Soundwaves 09 Band Line-Up I'm on the Goldy, in Ashmore.. Ph: 0406 197 226 Cheers, Jasyn.

Yeah dude, she definately has the dimming option.. Has 'On'/'Off'/'Auto' in the set-up options. If you could let me know over the next few days that'd be great, i'm putting all new speaker wiring thru the car so i will have the deck pulled out & good to go with wiring up the wire for the dimmer option.. Cheers duder

G'day all, I was hoping someone here might have a bit of experience with JVC 16 pin deck wiring... I bought the KD-G615 2nd hand and it's missing the orange/white stripe 'illumination/dimmer' wire. The unit has the dimmer function, but no wire to run it. The plug wiring looks identical to another JVC deck i used to own, so i'm assuming most of their decks use the same configuration. There's 3 spare holes to choose from to hook up the dimmer wire, but i don't want to hook it up to the wrong one and short-circuit my deck when i flick the lights on for the 1st time.. So if anyone has a JVC deck handy to see where i have to pin-out this wire that'd be awesome help. I've attached a pic showing where the 3 spare holes to choose from are. Cheers.

could you send a price for the heady's my way as well ? Also i can't see where your from, i'm on The Goldy so will need to know if i have to pay for any postage costs.. Cheers mate.

If the head-lights aren't sold, how much are you chasing for them ? They look a little shabby, are they non-damaged (no cracks/breaks) ? Cheers mate

If you're willing to post to the Gold Coast, can i get a price on S1 headlights (the pair) if they're in good nick ? Cheers bloke.

Update.. Finally got the sumbitch sucker off.. Yes went down to 'Superbroad minded person Auto' and invested 17 of my hard earned slaving dollars in a 'mini ball-joint seperator'. The normal sized one was a different design that looked useless on a rear ball-joint of the R33. The drive-shafts hub is in the way and would make using it a an absolute stuff around. After slipping the "mini ball-joint seperator" in place i gave it a few smacks with the hammer but it didn't do any good, cue the next door neighbour's and they're generosity to lend a baby sledgey to a neighbour Sorry i didn't take any pics, the digi-cam is cactus & i don't have the cord for my mobile to transfer onto the computer. Tips for future search references.... FRONT & REAR.. Yes, definately leave the strut assembly in place to help in LCA & lower ball-joint removal - it saves time & is less hassle for the removal & install process, and there's less to remember/think about when you're bolting everything back together. Yes, slip your jack underneath the rotor assembly to support the weight for when you finally get the lower control arm seperated. Ball-joint nuts were 22mm The front lower ball-joint nuts can be undone with a 22mm 1/2inch drive socket The rears however HAVE to be done with a ring spanner - the drive-shaft stops any socket & ratchet options. They're best taken care of with a long-ish ring spanner and a few hits with a hammer to 'crack' the nut. Or the old 'ring end over the open end' 2nd spanner trick will get you the leverage you need. FRONT.. When installing the new/secondhand lower control arm - its alot easier to slip the tapered end of the ball-joint through the hub assembly first, then do the ball-joint nut up finger tight. If the strut assembly has moved, don't stress - inch the whole assembly across with a trolly jack toward the sump.. Then when you've pretty much lined up the inside end/s with the bush to the bolt hole, just slip the bolt through and tighten both ends from there. The hub & rotor assembly may require a little jiggling back & forth to get the bolt to slip through all the way. Castor rod bolts were 17mm from memory. Put the two LCA end bolts through 1st and spin their nuts on a few times, then move the whole lot into position so you can slip the bolt through the other end with the bush. REAR.... Is easier coz it doesn't move back & forth due to the drive-shaft, and with the jack underneath the rotor it wont move up & down either. It's just a little bit of a pain to initially undo everything.. The old 'ring end over the open end' 2nd spanner trick will get you the leverage you need for the ball-joint nut. Don't let the jack hang too much lip on the inside side of the rotor. If it does, the lower control arm will foul on it when trying to slip the arm out. If your lucky like i was, you won't have to release and re-position the jack - the LCA will juuust slip out past it. (this makes it quicker for alignment when fitting the new LCA) Inner LCA bolts were 19mm and needed a bit of persistance to 'crack' open. Looked as though Nissan used some sort of thread compound or loctite on them. Again spanners are best for the rear - too much fouling to use sockets. This is a 'basic tips' guide.. Sorry if it seems a little confusing, i had a couple of JD's to make the process a little more enjoyable Cheers for your input guys, it definately gave me the confidence to 'Ava-crack-atit'