SHY 33

$180 ono.. ??

Location: Gig is in Brisbane @ QSAC Stadium / Ticket is located on Gold Coast Condition: New Reason for Selling: Not wanted, not psyched to go. Asking Price: 250 Delivery Methods: PickUp Contact Info: Ph: 0406 197 226 Extra Information: I have ONE single ticket for the AC/DC concert on 25th Feb '10 (4 days from today). I am chasing $250 or nearest offer for it. I'm in Ashmore on the Gold Coast, payment on pick-up is preferred Need to sell ASAP due to concert being so close Ticket is for the section 'Arena 1' which is literally right in front of the stage Link/pic to where this section is in relation to the stage can be found here.. http://www.showbiz.com.au/Tickets/ticketin...p;city=Brisbane My contact No. is.. 0406197226 Call anytime before 2pm is preferred (workplace restricted), msg/txt after 2pm if possible. Cheers ! Jasyn

Vehicle is now SOLD !! :banana:

Bump-a-lump due to tyre-kickers cheers

bump.. still no sale

Cheers to all that came & inspected today, no funds have been exchanged yet so sale is still open until that happens.. Cheers.

Location: Gold Coast, QLD (Ashmore) Item: Damaged Series 1 '94 R33 GTS-T, Has been sitting garaged for almost 2yrs Started fortnightly & driven around the block to keep things running smoothly Missing Head-lights & front guards Auto TEIN Coilovers all-round GREDDY pillar mounted Boost & Temp Gauges (Running solid 0.8bar) 17" N1 Altia Racing rims - **extremely rare genuine N1 rims** (couple slightly grazed) Genuine GTR front bar (damaged but easily repairable) Blue L.E.D dash & Climate Control mod (kit from 666DAN) 3" exhaust, HKS Hyper Muffler Iridium Spark Plugs (less than 1000k's use) Pivot turbo timer Mostly standard, was easily the smoothest mechanically of all the 10-12 i test drove when purchasing ....... Thats all i can think of so far..... Sold "As Is", Damage is reasonably minor, besides the obvious of guards & head-lights missing any repairs if buyer is not pulling the vehicle apart would include.. Both passenger & drivers headlight area need panel-beating back to normal to have flush fit of guards & head-lights. Passenger door has minor grazing - can be repaired or replaced depending on fussiness. Extreme passenger-side corner of bonnet under windshield very slightly bent. 2 Wheels need minor repair - filing, filling, sanding, re-painting or powder-coating. Somehow over the past fortnight, the car has picked up a 'hunt' at idle once warmed up, I haven't looked into it but am assuming its a vacuum leak from a perished hose - Has smooth start-up before warmed up. Drivers-side sway-bar link slightly bent (small uni-joint joining bar to chassis) ....... Thats all i can think of so far & should be it..... Will also add before anyone query's - The GTS Decal on the back WAS a GTS-T decal, I removed the '-T' to give a more 'sleeper' feel to it. Alot of cops assumed it was non-turbo thanks to that tiny little "mod". I didn't get asked to '"Lift the bonnet son"' anywhere near as much after removing it Reason for Sale: Just had a little one, so looking to start a trust-fund for the little guy. Have no use for a turbo 2-door sports-car anymore She who must be obeyed, now insists on a 4-door family oriented car Price & Payment Conditions: $3k or nearest reasonable offer.. Contact Details: Jasyn.. Mob - 0406 197 226, call anytime after 2pm to 9pm. Please MSG/TXT outside these hours Definitely serious buyers only !! Please do not ask if i will strip it, i'd like my garage space back Cheers for looking.

SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD !! !!! !!!! SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD !! !!! !!!! SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD !! !!! !!!! SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD !! !!! !!!! SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD !! !!! !!!! SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD !! !!! !!!! SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD !! !!! !!!!

Have a Ticket for "Soundwaves" for sale, i'm not going coz something else has come up. It's THIS Sat, so need the ticket sold ASAP ! Chasing $80 for it (originally $110) **Official Show Disclaimer** Due to the intense strobe lighting and size of the Nine Inch Nails light show at Soundwave 09 there is the possibility that it may induce Epilepsy. ... :laughing-smiley-014: :laughing-smiley-014: That right there, tells you it's gonna be a killer show !! Full Band Line-Up / Listing is here.. Soundwaves 09 Band Line-Up I'm on the Goldy, in Ashmore.. Ph: 0406 197 226 Cheers, Jasyn.

Yeah dude, she definately has the dimming option.. Has 'On'/'Off'/'Auto' in the set-up options. If you could let me know over the next few days that'd be great, i'm putting all new speaker wiring thru the car so i will have the deck pulled out & good to go with wiring up the wire for the dimmer option.. Cheers duder

G'day all, I was hoping someone here might have a bit of experience with JVC 16 pin deck wiring... I bought the KD-G615 2nd hand and it's missing the orange/white stripe 'illumination/dimmer' wire. The unit has the dimmer function, but no wire to run it. The plug wiring looks identical to another JVC deck i used to own, so i'm assuming most of their decks use the same configuration. There's 3 spare holes to choose from to hook up the dimmer wire, but i don't want to hook it up to the wrong one and short-circuit my deck when i flick the lights on for the 1st time.. So if anyone has a JVC deck handy to see where i have to pin-out this wire that'd be awesome help. I've attached a pic showing where the 3 spare holes to choose from are. Cheers.

could you send a price for the heady's my way as well ? Also i can't see where your from, i'm on The Goldy so will need to know if i have to pay for any postage costs.. Cheers mate.

If the head-lights aren't sold, how much are you chasing for them ? They look a little shabby, are they non-damaged (no cracks/breaks) ? Cheers mate

If you're willing to post to the Gold Coast, can i get a price on S1 headlights (the pair) if they're in good nick ? Cheers bloke.

Update.. Finally got the sumbitch sucker off.. Yes went down to 'Superbroad minded person Auto' and invested 17 of my hard earned slaving dollars in a 'mini ball-joint seperator'. The normal sized one was a different design that looked useless on a rear ball-joint of the R33. The drive-shafts hub is in the way and would make using it a an absolute stuff around. After slipping the "mini ball-joint seperator" in place i gave it a few smacks with the hammer but it didn't do any good, cue the next door neighbour's and they're generosity to lend a baby sledgey to a neighbour Sorry i didn't take any pics, the digi-cam is cactus & i don't have the cord for my mobile to transfer onto the computer. Tips for future search references.... FRONT & REAR.. Yes, definately leave the strut assembly in place to help in LCA & lower ball-joint removal - it saves time & is less hassle for the removal & install process, and there's less to remember/think about when you're bolting everything back together. Yes, slip your jack underneath the rotor assembly to support the weight for when you finally get the lower control arm seperated. Ball-joint nuts were 22mm The front lower ball-joint nuts can be undone with a 22mm 1/2inch drive socket The rears however HAVE to be done with a ring spanner - the drive-shaft stops any socket & ratchet options. They're best taken care of with a long-ish ring spanner and a few hits with a hammer to 'crack' the nut. Or the old 'ring end over the open end' 2nd spanner trick will get you the leverage you need. FRONT.. When installing the new/secondhand lower control arm - its alot easier to slip the tapered end of the ball-joint through the hub assembly first, then do the ball-joint nut up finger tight. If the strut assembly has moved, don't stress - inch the whole assembly across with a trolly jack toward the sump.. Then when you've pretty much lined up the inside end/s with the bush to the bolt hole, just slip the bolt through and tighten both ends from there. The hub & rotor assembly may require a little jiggling back & forth to get the bolt to slip through all the way. Castor rod bolts were 17mm from memory. Put the two LCA end bolts through 1st and spin their nuts on a few times, then move the whole lot into position so you can slip the bolt through the other end with the bush. REAR.... Is easier coz it doesn't move back & forth due to the drive-shaft, and with the jack underneath the rotor it wont move up & down either. It's just a little bit of a pain to initially undo everything.. The old 'ring end over the open end' 2nd spanner trick will get you the leverage you need for the ball-joint nut. Don't let the jack hang too much lip on the inside side of the rotor. If it does, the lower control arm will foul on it when trying to slip the arm out. If your lucky like i was, you won't have to release and re-position the jack - the LCA will juuust slip out past it. (this makes it quicker for alignment when fitting the new LCA) Inner LCA bolts were 19mm and needed a bit of persistance to 'crack' open. Looked as though Nissan used some sort of thread compound or loctite on them. Again spanners are best for the rear - too much fouling to use sockets. This is a 'basic tips' guide.. Sorry if it seems a little confusing, i had a couple of JD's to make the process a little more enjoyable Cheers for your input guys, it definately gave me the confidence to 'Ava-crack-atit'

OK, i got a specific question now... Specifically.. Howdafaaark do i get that REAR lower ball-joint out ?? I've finished doing the front, now i'm onto the rear. I've undone the nuts to the arms that connect to the sub-frame, undone the ball-joint nut, removed the sway-bar link that goes through the lower control arm, couldn't manage to get the tie-rod end seperated so i left it where it is with the nut undone... I've bashed the shite out of it from every angle possible, even jammed a jack between the upper and lower control arms to give me some extra downward pressure, used a 20-30cm 1/2 inch extension bar as a dolly to hit at it from all angles from top, sides, angles, the thread, but - No cigar !! Should i just go out & buy one of those 'ball-joint seperator' doodads from 'Superbroad minded person Auto' ? Would one of them even fit in there with enough room to swing a hammer properly ? Does it sound like i've done everything right so far & i just need to keep on a bashin' the nasty sod - even after 1/2 hour of bashing ? I really hope somene has some words of wisdom for me here..

It DOES help if you work in a servo (like i do) then you can tick up fuel till pay-day. The novelty of being able to blitz most Commodore's & Falcon's wears off in about 2-3 months, then you start to wish they'd just piss-off and stop trying to race you every time you pull up to a red light. You'll find yourself settling down on the road coz there's only so many traffic light grand prix's that you can handle, then you're over it. If your smart, you'll start to look into taking it out for some proper lap times at your local raceway instead of looking for new ways to write it off on the street. The torque is pretty nice to drive with for a 6 cyl, a sunday drive cruising out through the mountains is no hassle for a turbo RB. You develop a sense of paranoia when you see a cop car, wondering if they're going to pull you over, wondering if they'll hassle you over simple things such as a non enclosed pod filter or pillar mounted gauges. Most times alot of the boys in blue will just want to check the driver out, kinda get a feel for if he's a "hoon" or has no respect for road rules and/or authority. I've been pulled over 5 times in 12 months, but 2 of them were random breath tests that sent me on my way when i read zero. And the other 3 were for random license & ownership checks - i agree with these as it lets me know that if my ride is ever stolen then i know the cops are already pulling skylines over for these kind of checks. Plus when you tell the cops this, they actually are pretty good with you coz they know you understand what they're doing & don't have any dramas with them pulling you over in the 1st place. Insurance is a big "bend over & think warm thoughts" kinda feeling.. Forking out over a grand a year every year gets a little annoying - alot more if your under 25 and have a colorful history with traffic offences. Try the online insurance quotes from 'Just Cars' and the like to get an idea on what you'll be up for. Overall i think they're a good car to own, but i personally think there's a little too many (approx) under 25yo's that don't respect what the vehicle can actually do & end up stacking it in some way. The ratio of under 25's Vs over 25's that try to race me or encourage me to do something reckless is pretty ridiculous. Some are good, they just ask what i've had done, throw a compliment, then drive off. But ALOT of them are the former, you learn how to ignore them and keep on your way. Thats one of the big keys to owning a Skyline - learning how to ignore invitations of idiocy, and realising that if you push it too much, it WILL bite back. Anyhow, welcome to the site dude... Cheers.

Are the head-lights still for sale ? Are they crack free & in all right nick ? If possible would also like the screws/bolts/brackets etc. to make them go in. Will need them postsed to 4214 so if you can give me a total $$$ to have them sent to me that'd be geat. Can call or txt on = 0406 197 226 Cheers dude.

Item: Drivers side front Sway-bar link Age: not bothered Condition: straight with ball-joints in good nick Price: dunno... prolly like $20 clams or something delivered To Fit: R33 GTS-T Series one Location: I'm on The Goldy, but it can be posted from virtually any state Contact: Jasyn on mobi ( 0406 197 226 ) or on here Comments: As long as its straight & in good nick - its all good Does anyone have one these little links lying around for sale, need the drivers side front one.. It joins the very end of the sway-bar on the drivers side to the hub assembly or whatever it's called.. Cheers dudes & dudettes

Posted in wrong section - see for sale section

DO-Luck = Good Luck finding 'em I searched/rang/drove all over the Gold Coast for a set of those rims, rear bar & skirts, kept being told to go here & there & everywhere. In the end, either 99% of people couldn't help me or wanted stupid asking prices because "they're a bitch to get hold of".... The 'Double six's' look like sex with a bit of dish in them.

Free bump.... These wheels are mad as !! Wish i had the coin right now for 'em. You wouldn't know how much each rim weighs would ya ? I've heard they're light as a ferk...

I noticed this bloke never replied back about whether his set-up ran cooler after a bit of a good bash... Makes me 2nd guess on whether this mod is worthwhile or not.. Has anyone thats done this got any good reports yet ? It's been 6 months and still no yay or nay on how well it went.

Thats pretty much the end result i was chasing.. An MV valve-bodied/manualised auto with electronic shift function via either steering wheel buttons - or maybe even paddle shift for wank value

Cheers for that info, makes it sound not that hard. Yeah i checked thru SK's posts - well all of the topics he started anyway. Knowledgable bastard aint he ? LOL I got zip on what i'm after, a fare bit of general info on suspension itself but no how-to or pic-by-pic tutorials. I've replaced castor rods, sway-bars, steering racks, rack-ends, tie-rod ends, wheel bearings, rotors, calipers and the like before on both my old Gemini & SII RX/7, and a few mates cars for them. But I've never had a go at pulling a lower control arm assembly out before. I was a little concerned on whether i'd need spring compressors or something like that to do this job. Also unsure what the go was with fitting new lower ball-joints with the new lower control arms. Like whether they had to be press fitted and if so, is there an old-school mechanic way of doing the job with good results etc. I might see if i can rustle up the digi-cam off the missus so i can put pics up of what i'm up against - and possibly add my own tutorial on what to do... Anyone else want to add anything ?? I'm all ears, coz the car aint going anywhere while its up on chassis stands ATM..