Jolinator

j 32 he didnt have the car inspected? if not klown you were on a kamakazie run from the start, inspection is a must, multiple even!

these things happen when you deal with old performance cars, its the buyers responsiblity to ensure the car is up to there standard before purchase, if it was just an rb20 that poped, then its cheap as chips to replace so i dont see the big issue klown../?

spark plugs are in servicable condition, 02 sensor, i was looking at on consult and it was swinging back and forth so i assumed it was happy, also it looks brand new, and when i had it out of the dump it was pretty fresh, i just took the car out for a run then, and it was great ,running fine, one thing i can ad is that before it was playing up on the way home from work, it was requiring a few cranks to start up, it usually starts instantly which it has returned to doing, have checked ignition timing also for the hell of it, 15-16degres at idle, so its spot on car is running BP U98 only been over the car with a fine tooth comb, from afm to the silicon joiners behind the front bar, checked all vacume lines, intake manifold gaskets are new, as are throttle body gaskets and bov gaskets, all exhaust gaskets are new aswell except manifold but i dont think thats relivent here

hey, i was on holidays and i had one of my mates take my car in for a wheel alignment, the guys got all giddy askign him if i was using the car for drifting and shit but its just my normal road car, i have used these guys before and they always were spot on, it think they got excited and adjusted everybolt on my car with nfi what they were doing, i get my car back and the front end is sitting noticbly higher, front bar used to be 101mm of the ground now its like 120-130 or something and my car has an extremly f**ked wheel alignment, and i mean physco. the car trys to consistantly go left, like i mean if i let go of the steering wheel at 80kmh it would fly off the road, its so bad that in 200kays my left wheel is a compleate slick, i went and spoke to them, they deny changing anything on my coilovers etc, even though i know its sitting higher, and it feels totally different, its stupidly dangerous to drive at the moment. it almost feels like something in the rearend because i brought it to a stop to give a little stick, and with a touch of wheelspin the back end instantly tried to overtake the front end, from the left hand side.. i have jacked the car up at all four corners and had a look, cant see anything out of the ordinary, i checked the wheels for play pushing them left and right, up and down, etc , no knocking or slop, tie rods look ok, at first i thought maybe there was play in the hicas rack but it seems solid, but i really have no idea were i should start looking, the car will be booked into a proper suspension place asap, but it wouldnt mind narrowing down the problem, thanks guys also to mention car was perfect before they had it, just needing a tiny alignment. also i took my steering wheel off and when i put it back on, before it went in there im not sure if it was on strait, but my mate did tell them that.

yes

bump

judging by your avatar, i could guess that the problem is that bigass bov you have on there. causing overfueling when you lift off, regarding actuator rod, they arnt very easy to move by hand, go get some multigrips.

swap for a bit fat boat, you must be kidding, lol

afm readings seem fine on consult?

o2 sensor is in good conidition and is fresh and no intake leaks

cars been running great recently , altho started playing up this morning, in traffic my idle was on the piss, almost as if the AAC valve was disconnected all the gether, idle hunting up and down, on the way home from work, i start my car, takes a while to start. and it was blowing flames the entire way home, even at grandma speeds, i can only assume my fuel reg has died? before people ask, engine is RB20det Fuel filter is new, Injectors are clean, new fuel pump, healthy fuel lines, car is extremly well maintained and i cant find any faults, Diagnostics shows no codes either any help would be much appreciated

i got my injectors cleaned, flow tested, leak tested, spray pattern test, new pintle tips, new o rings, new insulators the works 23-24$ an injector, he comes to your house, Southside injection, takes about 1hr, maybe give him a ring? he just asked me if they were high or low impediance , top or side feed and then he came around , excellent service

it depends if you plan to "drive" the car, if so i would replace it as the car will be quite hairy under heavy breaking, suddenly pulling to one side etc, if your just going to cruise you should be fine, just keep it in mind

sorry slightly o/t but i have to get this out, it sucks how newer cars use plastic headlights, our old 97 a4 had glass headlights, from 00+ plastic, our new liberty gt has shitty plastic headlights, it must be to do with saftey or something, r32 for the win, glass headlights

Seriously get some photos up,

the rotors ive got here mate are bin material they have been hammerd mate, sorry, Roy they are 365x34mm

rs6 breaks are HUGE, i have a set of rotors for them in my garage, they will stop a 747, having sayed that wont you have issues with break bias, given the displacement of the calipers is different, etc

im not sure if its the same, on a 26, however i used a VL thermo gasket on mine, as i cnbf using silcoon hate walking into repco and asking for vl parts tho lol

i think if the initial resistance of the gtr and 4g injector are the same you should be right, however i am not certain

firstly it would be a 33gtst in his sig, as it says, Full r33 gtr interior, cant see that happening in a 34, secondly danielson he is talking about a gt-t ax53b70p25 give us some more info, Mods etc,

negative silver gtst, whole timing belt needs to come off, if you pop one of the cam wheels off, you will never get it back on again without either damaging the belt or f**king up the timing

i sent them this, and got the following reply, which i found a bit hard to beleive given were talking bigger wheels, and non ceramic. Thanks for the enquiry. Answers to your questions are below: is there a Difference using an rb20 or r25 turbos, given the 25 has a bigger exhuast housing? No other differences at all. do you offer anything slightly smaller in the way of highflows, im looking to make 210rwkw, max, on an rb20det, in a 32 gtst, my only concern is if i can get something smaller than what you offer as standard, with the rb20 being down in the torque department i need something that spins up as early as possible, The high flow will come on boost, and respond exactly the same as a standard turbocharger, but make more power, so there is no need to worry about response with the RB20det. Kind Regards Michael Ramsay

lol

i agree with r31 nismoid