dyefuker

haha, your first time too? im hopeing my clutch holds up to it, shes a bit tired lol

Yeahhhhh I'm on the list!! Counting the days

Just transfered payment, $50 as its my first time at deca, and im about to fax through the entry forms and transfer document, Pumped!

LOL because racecar, haha, thanks for that advice Simon, ill be doing exactly what you said with the front passenger seat bolts, will look professional and neat, ill get on the AASA application straight away

hey, im keen to give this a go, will be my first event as a club member, iv had a read over the entry form, looks straight forward, Only things im curious about, where has everyone else mounted there fire extinguishers? centre console lid? ...... And this AASA licence, i dont have one, whats involved on the day to get it? apart from the $50 dollar charge? Looking forward to this! Rob.

sorry mate, good point there, im having a good look thru now, all of them are in good condition thou!

hey everyone, im seriousaly thinking about selling my car to clear my det and personal loan. my cars a R33 1996 series 2 gtst, black, manual, imaculate interior. mods wise, 3inch turbo back, gtr fmic, high flow pannel filter, lowerd, 18inch lenzo ziet rims, viper alarm. gtr wing, nismo front lip and standard m spec skirts. all else is stock as a rock, 132'xxx kms, ummm yeh thats all the good side. now asumeing the exterior was imaculate id asume i could hope in selling it for 11- 13k? the problems i have with decideing on a price are= it was in a minor front end knock which cracked the bumpers paint a bit, and broke 2 or 3 headlight mounts, all else is fine. and some bastard of a truck or car with a bull bar side swiped it in a car park and there is a nice 30cm long scrape along the rear drivers side just above the wheel arch. all the rest of the paint and exterior is in excelent condition, same with mechanical wise, never had a hickup. So, in its current condition, what does anyone thats reading this think i could hope or expect to get for it? Cheers, Rob.

the ilum pick up will be easy, use the cigaret lighters light ring, or the dash clusters lights ppower, basicly anything that lights up on your dash when u turn your head lights on, use that, as for your rpm feed as it dosnt have a tach as standard you should be able to pick it up from the ecu wireing loom somewhere, but you will have to look it up and find out what exact wire, maby search the net for the wireing diagram, or register on a slivia form hope this helps

gee after reading most of this everyone is going to want to kill me haha, iv been runing Penrite HPR10 in my 1996 r33 gtst sinice i bought it 3 years ago, and have been changeing it every 10'000km's not ever 5k like most seem to do, i do alot of freeway driving and lot of km's a year so didnt want an overly pricey oil, thou now i have a 1994 falcon work horse so the r33 is gona get some nice expensive royal purple, or motul fully synthetic oil . but even with that, iv never had a problem with hpr10, always stable oil presures, never burns any oil what so ever, even after a good hard tharshing at the strips

as you just said, that was my original thought that the radiator was only just copeing, because any other day when the out side temp isnt roasting lol the r33 runs fine a/c on or not, 40+ plus air con just seems to be too mcuh for it. its never made it to the hot line, id never let that happen, roughly 3/4 on the gauge is the highest its ever got, but even still as you said, thats an extra 10 - 15 degrese just there thats only there with the air con on. i think ill have the radiator professionaly cleaned first, see how it goes on the next really hot day, if that fails, ill get the a/c system checked

there ya go i didnt know the imports all got de gased before coming over, iv never had the air con system checked at all becuase its always blown icy cold air inside the cabin, even on 40+ days when the engine gets hot, the air con still works great untill yea i turn it off or the electronics force it off, but thats a good point and i probably will get that checked first, after all a check n re gas is only like 120 - 150, bit cheaper than a new radiator, plus iv had it for a good 4 years now so its almost time for a air con check up

very good points guys, mad082 yes your right lol hose down the inlett n outlett haha, with the way it behaves, that bit of extra temp from the air con just seems to tick it over the edge on hot days, so thats why i assumed it would be a radiator problem more than anything, i will look into getting the radiator profesionaly cleaned or buying a new one, are the 250 - 300ish dual core alloy radiators that pop up on ebay any good? also the idiot original owner in japan only ran water in it, cause about 4 years ago now when i got it a welsh plug rusted out, and again bout 3 years ago now another 2 went, so i replaced all of them, so it is very possible that the radiator has alot of build up that i dont know about, and or even the engine too?

but then again, also i dont know how many people have this problem we do, might not be all of them, just something not right, hmmmmmmmm

iv still got the stock clutch fan n shroud, it works so iv never touched it lol, as far as i know it never gets much above 35 over in japan, and they have a more humid heat compared to our hot dry heat, thats all i can think of thou, just that they didnt anticipate hot aus temps

cheers for the reply, on your first post, yea it never gets hotter than half with the air con off, even on that stupidly hot 47deg day here last year, but the aircon seems to just push it over the edge n make the engine over heat on 40+ days, n as for it being forced of, every time my temp gauge has hit 3/4 the electronics in the car seem to force the a/c off, even if i press the climate controls a/c button it wont turn back on till the car reaches half temp again, then all will work again and cool air will flow, maby its some form of fail safe protection nissan made for it, as far as i know yes, if the abient temp is hotter, then the a/c does work harder and also produce more heat in the condenser at the front of the car, which i understand, with the intercooler heating the air, then then condenser heating the air even more, then it finaly hits the radiator to try cool the motor, maby its all just too much for the r33 on hot days?

thanks for your reply, i changed the thermostat at 100k major service to a nissan standard one, same with the water pump, as far as i know the radiator dosnt have much if any corosion, temp sensors is a possibility, but i dont think so as on days like 40+ n the car gets hot the over flow tank in my car will boil, so i think its prity spot on lol, never ever does that unless it gets really hot, gtr fmic could be a potential problem, its mounted best, but it was second hand and a fair bit of fins bent, i straightend as much as i could out, but that could be part of it, might try the stock side mount on the next stupidly hot day

ok, so every day here in melbourne when the temperature gets much above 40deg, my R33 s2 trys to over heat, on the highway or driving or around town, the temp neddle will slowly make its way from the normal half opertateing temp up to 3/4 if not a little higher, then the car forces the air conditioner off and the car will slowly return to normal temps, then the a/c will come back on and it will happen over again, n again n again till i stop driving, my car has recently had a full coolant flush, and was bled properly, the system has no leaks, the radiator and hoses hold presure, and it dosnt use any coolant what so ever, i also pulled over and checked the other day as it was getting hot that both my fans were working, and yes both the clutch fan and front electric fans were on and blasting, it has the standard original radiator, and everything else standard, apart from a full turbo back exhaust and gtr fmic, i have no idea what is causeing this problem, and im just asumeing that the car just cant cope with the hot dry heat here in aus. im open to any sugestions of ways to fix this, if my car does have a problem, or parts to upgrade to help keep her cool, eg larger radiator, dual elec fans or maby even turbo to cat exhaust pipe heat wraping??? as im sure, no one likes to see there skyline run that hot, even if it is on a 40deg plus day any advice would be great, cheers, Rob.

funny, after reading this whole topic, i actaully did/have the same problem, bought a cheap split dump of ebay, was umm 110 i think, and yeh installed it and the boost just keeps climbing, so not nothing more than a quarter throttle it is for now lol, and i know the gate is hitting something as it wont open anymore than maby 5 degrees, gota pull the dump off again and do exactly what i have just read, grind some more space for it, had no problems what so ever with the stock dump/front pipes, changed them and now no boost controll, though i did notice a fair bit of power gain and responsiveness off boost, and the little bit of boost iv experianced, and also i have noticed a kind of whineing noise the turbo makes now down the exhaust pipe as it spools

hey, is the turbo still for sale?

i jsut did mine my self, with hot water, hot towel to keep the pannel hot, and yea rubber mallet and slowly bent the innner edge up, worked well, but if you can get it done profesh go that way for sure

no idea how wide, most probably 8inch or something like that

all good man, i think with the 15's on the back of mine there was a good 5mm clearance of the brake calipers, so u shouldnt have a problerm

hey dont know if you read my reply in your topic but read this! hey man, not sure you even have to do that, i ran 15inch slicks on the back or my r33 gtst and they fit on fine with no problems with the rear brakes, and iv got the 4pistion fronts and 2 piston rears which im prity sure are the biggest stock r33 gtst brakes? they were 15inch wheels of a au falcon which run the same stud pattern and offset, and they had 205 semi slick tires on them, griped like buggery and made me able to make a 13.5 second quarter mile with my stockish r33 hope this info helps ya

iv got a stockish r33 s2, with an after market boost controler, mine is spooling by 2k and i have full boost by 2.5k i think the series 1 turbos thou spool a little slower and later in the rev range than my one