dyefuker

silly question lol, what the f*** is a cold start valve lol didnt even know that existed, where is it? and how to clean?

its a massive meet for the australian ford forums that iv joined thru a mate that obviousaly has a ford lol, so there all good people, and you get your own pitting/coverd area to put cars parts/wheels/ luggage/subs and amps, n yea anythin not wanted in the car, its quite a good setup there at heathcote, yea probably a good point thou to go back to all 4 stockies, they are lighter than my rims to!! how didnt i think of that! lol ooops

sweet as mate thanks for the info very very usefull, the 18' rims live on my car, so ill be driving there on them, but ill definataly have a set of stockies in the back seat, shall try both types and see the difference but i understand your point, with the 205 semi slicks they were amazing on track, i launched basicly flat nacker of the line with no wheel spin, and probably a little clutch slip, iv had a fair bit of experiance, use to drag my old car a bit on track, and this will be the 2nd time with my r33

hey man, not sure you even have to do that, i ran 15inch slicks on the back or my r33 gtst and they fit on fine with no problems with the rear brakes, and iv got the 4pistion fronts and 2 piston rears which im prity sure are the biggest stock r33 gtst brakes? they were 15inch wheels of a au falcon which run the same stud pattern and offset, and they had 205 semi slick tires on them, griped like buggery and made me able to make a 13.5 second quarter mile with my stockish r33 hope this info helps ya

i have this exact same problem with my r33, only ever on cold starts, and only like 20% of the time, other cold starts it will be fine, but yea sometimes i start it and it trys to stall, revs drop to like 500, then when i touch the throttle it revs up and idles fine, weird problem

i lost my one from calder lol, i was shatterd, but when i draged then it was on a set of 205 semi slicks on 16inch wheels, they were great, full boost launch at 4.5k with no wheel spin, im thinkin my 265/35/18's will be good enough, they grip like all buggery on the road

cheers for the reply, i actually pulled all my shocks and springs front and rear out on the weekend, and yea what u said was right. i got another 4 turns on the front middle shock nuts and aobut 2 turns on the rear, they were lose as all buggery, who ever changed the springs in japan did a shit job of it, there was no seals between the chassy and shocks eitther, so i made up 4 gaskets 2 seal that up and cleaned everything up, turned out my springs are blue! lol never knew, and idea what brand springs would be blue from japan?

the guy told me just to take them so cant complain there, never thought of actually asking nissan on that one lol, the fountain soy sauce is a good one thou

hey im prity sure i know the answer to this one but just curious on everyone elses opinions i have 18inch rims, wich are 9.5inch wide on the rear with maxxis 265/35/18 tyres on them or i can go with stockies on the rear which are the standard 225/50/16's which again are the maxxis brand and have alot of tred what would be the best to drag on at heathcote? last time i ran at calder park i used a set of 205 semi slicks and did a 13.58 quarter mile pass with perfect launch and all gear shifts right on my r33 s2's mods are quite basic, with a r33 gtr front mount, after market boost controler on 8psi atm, k/n high flow pannel filter, stock exhaust, and after market excedy clutch i was raped with my best time and love 2 make it again, so open to any sugestions how to maby even get a better time? at cadler my mods were exactly the same as what they are now, nothing has changed cheers.

lol its a pain in the arse hey? i ended up goin to a local wreckers after work, got 2 of them, not of skylines thou, both of them were of 1996ish nissan maxima's, seems they have a very very similar over flow tank to the r33, i noticed alot of similar looking things actally

hey everyone, i was stupid and took the cap off my overflow bottle to fill it up and didnt put the cap back on, left it on my strut tower and yea its gone now, does anyone know any sort of cap that fits it? iv tryed a few of soft drink bottles and nothing iv found fits gona try a wrecker tonight and hopefully fine an wrecked r33 with the cap still on it any ideas would be apreciated, cheers.

just to shed some light on my few problems, today i changed my gearbox oil to nulon smoothshift 75w90 which is a semi synthetic oil plus about 210ml of the nulon g70, it all feels much better, very smooth and quite, thou my 1st to 2nd shift still clunks a little into 2nd, im asumeing the syncro must be a bit damaged with that gear and as to my clutch noise, i pulled the whole peddle assy out today, as well as the master cylinder, the creaking noise was actually coming from the shaft of the master cylinder, it wasnt moving smoothly as the clutch peddle was depressed, so the noise from that was resonating back thru the peddle and firewall creating a creaking noise in the cabin, i put some grease in and around the shaft then put the seal back over it and re asembled the car, now its quiet and very smooth like it was when i bought it, so im raped with that, hopefully it stays that way hope this info helps someone else with the clutch noise problem

hey, prob wouldnt go for a button clutch for every day driving, iv got an exedy sports tuff clutch in my r33 gtst, im putting out about 180kw atw, iv never had any sort of sliping from it, and from what iv been told its good for up to 240kw, and the clutch peddle is still soft, so great for every day driving, could possibly be an idea for you

thats alright, mines been prity good, all gears are prefect, apart from especily when cold 1st to 2nd is hard and crunches, when the box is warm its not as bad, but still something i want fixed

ah yea, ill give that stuff a crack and see if it helps, then ill eventually change to redline, just about everyone iv talked to said this oil is amazing

theres a store on ebay that sells the redline oils, ill be looking at about 130dollars for 3 litres including postage, so i dont think thats too bad http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...em=180285558161 thats the link

i think the vmx80 or 90 is what i used in my old 626's gearbox, its problem was the oposite with massive crunching downchangeing from 3rd to 2nd, but its box was really bad lol with metal shaveings constantly stuck to the drain plug, lol hope my r33's never gets that bad, cant see it happening, the vmx seemed to be a decent oil, but what is nulon g70? im geussing a cleaning agent of some sort? and with the redline lightweight shockproof, i was at bursons looking at it last night and the bottle had a sticker on it stateing oil life time from 200'000 to 400'000 km's, and 30'000 isnt much for me, i drive my r33 a good 800kms every week, do alot of driving, need something good and that will be in there for a fair time

thanks for the responses, yea i never warm my car up, just start her up and drive it, but i never alow it to hit boost when cold, and im always very carefull with changeing gears, drive it very gently when cold, and as with the clutch squeek, iv listend to the gearbox area and its silent, the squeek is definataly not coming from there, im thinking to try help the hard shifting ill try a different oil as yea i have no idea what my mechanic put in it, iv read that redline lightweight shockproof is really good, but as i fouind out today, really expensive, think i will try a penrite sin gearbox oil, its like 75w 85, and a bit cheaper at 45dollars for 2.5 litres, and iv only ever had great results from useinf penrite hpr10 oil, so might give it a go

i dont think so, the noise more comes from the rear shelf area, my first thought was the bolts for the top of the struts were lose, but yea wasnt the case, im tempted just 2 pull the whole rear suspension apart and see what i find, if anything

hey all, my suspension in my r33 gtst is relitivly stock, with after market springs that came in the car wish importing it, and a few bushes replace, since i got the car 2 years ago mainly the rear struts with really quick sharp bumps they are really noisy, like a clunking noise, get it sometimes from the front end too, from what i can see theres nothing lose or not right under the car, and iv checked the tops of the struts and the bolts arnt lose, i have no idea where the noise is coming from, is there any bearings on the tops of the towers that could possibly be stuffed? if anyone has any sugestions on this id be apreciated. cheers, Rob.

hey all, hopeing sumone can give me some advice here, had my r33 gtst for 2 years now and since i got it its always had a creaky clutch peddle, now iv removed the whole peldle assy inside the car, greased it all up again and also sprayed some wd40 inside where the shaft for the master cylinder enters the unit, it was silent! for about 2 weeks lol, from what iv gatherd. the noise is coming from that shaft on the master cylinder, what is the best way to fix this anoying noise? and my second question, about 1 year ago i had my stock clutch changed to an exedy sports tuff after market one, great clutch, but since then especily when the car/box is cold, my 1st to 2nd shift is very tight and lightly crunches into 2nd, thou going from 3rd back to 2nd its fine, every other gear change is always perfect, and as the box warms up all shifts are perfect, im not exactly sure what gear box oil the mechanic put in the box, but im hopeing its something simple like too thick oil used in the box or something along that line, has anyone got a sugestion on this one? cheers, Rob.

sms sent

thanks for the advice mate, yeh thats what i thought about the dual flywheel clutches, there for serious power not stock cars, me and a mechanic mate are changeing it this weekend, hey! your car looks very much like mine just in r32 form

hey all just after some advice, iv had my r33 gtst for 2 months now and its done 83'000km's, 6'000 with me driving, and its gettin to the point now when if i give it enough throttle to hit 2 - 4psi of boost the clutch will slip, very noticeable and worse on the highway, iv bled my clutch lines and master cylinder, just for something to do, my questions are what is the best clutch to get? im aiming on 220rw kw in the future, im thinking aobut getting the exedy tuff heavy duty clutch, pink one about 400 on ebay, and iv also be told by a mechanic that they sometimes have a different cltuch setup? dual flywheel and clutch plates? does my car have this or will i have a typical flywheel and single plate setup? also is it recomended to change the flywheel or get the standard one machined? thanks to anyone that can help, cheers, rob.