Quigga

http://nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=367066

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rb20det now sold turbo still there but

Hey guys only posting the skyline/turbo bits here all other parts are here other parts and pics located in burpengary pm me for more details am neg on some things $700 r32 RB20det rebuilt water pump 10k ago engine blows NO SMOKE and runs great had 10psi through it its whole life been running daily for over a year now got a stock turbo with this now for an extra $200 $300 rb20det loom suit s13 everything works all taped up and pretty with safc2 on it (half price without the safc2) $200 Mines ecu tuned for zuast, 10psi boost, fmic, and very unique sounding rev limiter $100 Rb20det afm by itself $150 solid intake pipe with rb20afm with silicon hoses (pod not incl) $150 Turbosmart single stage boost controler $80 600X300x100 cooler- Slightly fuct its got a small twist and a little hole but nice after its fixed $10 rb20 stock intake snorkel with pipes $100 rb20 R32 coilpacs with brakets WORKING

do the loom with it?

sounds like u got it plumbed backwards..... weve all done it

yea ive ruled out spark trust me ive spent a lot of time researching and testing ignition systems, im running much bigger coils and plugs to suit the iridiums were liek 20 or 30 each and are being used by some serious engines 400kw+, ive definatly got that sorted almost positive thats not the issue looks like its stock boost until i can afford the microtech or similar maybe just a a/f gauge for the mean time........ i cant help but think its a sensor or somthing because ive never had a car just go magic fast for a bit then not..... anyway feedback still welcome

Changing turbos is not against the law, modifying the vehichle to accomidate can be aka atmo wastegates ect.

iridums its not spark

fair enough i get wat ur saying, but WHY has it run like a freaking dream on 2 occasions?? ive got everything to cope with the bigger turbo, just because i dont have a a/f gauge doesnt mean i cant feel wats happening, 5ritch is too ritch and it blows black smoke sets my rear bar on fire and makes all the kids in the street jump for joy, 0 the car runs ritch and stutters at the 9psi point, 10lean makes the car run better but still craps out at this point, ect to 20 when i hit the stutter its cracking like a WWII battlefield ino how much dyno days are but i thought maybe just maybe its sumthing else

all your saying is get a dyno tune? well if i had enough money to do that itd be done by now! i build everything by myself and do 99% at home to save money hence why im here asking if anyone can help to keep that $$$$ in my pocket not mr dyno mechanic

sell wolf go back to piggied stocko get some cash back try another tuner but then its spending more money for possibly no more gains

never been on dyno with this setup , no idea of a/f ratio, i been doing all this on street tune coils are just run from standard ignighter its a proven setup

installed rb20det into onevia no problems with boost when stock as a rock now added fmic (custom piped) solid induction pipe (no floppy snorkel) hks2540 snail custom external coilpacks (vn modified) aftermarket atmo bov bosh040 safc single stage bc custom 3ich zaust dump back straight through koyo stainless rad and some more shit that doesnt matter HERES THE PROBLEM!!! stock boost so 7-9lpsi no worries with power bla bla bla when flicked to high boost its fine untill it goes above 9psi, then kinda does a limmiter but not really more like a stutter, so stops making boost and power. played with the safc to try to counter the ecu running outa map but ive gone to 20 lean and its still does it, its better but still there, i dont really wanna go much more because detonation (although if others are running leaner let me know) currently set around 13-15 for stock boost since high boost craps out BUT!!!!!! its on two occasions runs like a f**king rocket and does wat its supposed to no crapping out, boosting to 16psi no worries and wheelspinning all the way there lol until i blew a cooler pipe noth times and back to shit again! checked every pipe for splits and bends and leaks but no avail, looked at every possible thing but cannot work the prob out PLEASE HELP! any ideas or even theories please please help i want the ROCKET feeling back thats why i put the turbo 6 into the nonturbo 4 hole!

lol after removing his turbo its a gt25/40 not a 35/40 lol still hks ftw! still beats my old one

hes already got briaded longer lines and its got an external gate

ok enough with the i dont think u can do it crap its flat out im more than capable of doing it after doing 2 rb silvia conversions, a 13bt into a mazda 626 82, a bpt into a lazer and a 20v 4agze into a ae81....... just was looking for anythign that i might run into, i shoulda stated that i already assumed that the cooler piping has to be modded (no worries) assumed the dump had to be changed, its wheather i need a wastegate setup, longer oil/cooler lines ect btw it is worth it because im gettin a gt35/40, Yes it will be getting engine managment in the near future but thats his problem i am just doing this turbo install, ive asked these questions because i HAVENT SEEN IT BEFORE! i havent even seen his stuff have to wait till weekend so back to orginal post PICTURES worth a thousand words, and any problelms u guys have run into? sorry about the rant but i need some advice before i do the job so i dont do things the hard way not people to tell me im wasting my time...... hope to hear responses Quigga

*EDIT* Have the old turbo off and already in my car , got the new manifold on with new gasket, got the turbo on the manifold and now to play the waiting game for some more pipe. ran into a minor issue with the powersteering resivour hitting the turbo but i moved it around the strut and its all good ill keep u updated hey guys basically i wanna know wat im getting myself into, if i put a highmounted T04e on my mates car i can have his old turbo for nothing ! WAT DO I NEED TO DO and pictures please Hes got already T04e Highmount Manifold aftermarket 3inch dump zaust injectors gtr fmic braided longer oil lines Thanks quigga

as stated in title hicas pump, basically i bought this thinking it was the pump that runs off the crank not the one for hicas.... $55 posted anywhere in aus or straight trade for p/s pump

http://www.boostcruising.com/forums/index....howtopic=226144 full tutorial!

Task - Installing VN external coilpacks to replace the standard RB20det ones Why - Mainly because its cheaper than buying new/ aftermarket ones. The VN coilpacks also fire 2 cylinders at the same time one to fire a piston and one fires on the exhaust stroke (wasted spark) which helps reduce emmisions without sacrificing power. The VN coilpacks will also produce a spark for a longer time (so im told) How much - in total after making the bracket and all it cost me $210aus with buying the coilpacks from a holden dealer (u will pick up second had ones MUCH cheaper but risking a failure) Whats needed - VN coilpacks x 3, Sparkplug leads (get lengths to suit where ur coils will be muonted) Heat Shrink, Electrical Tape, spade plugs crimp (please ensure the right size to fit the coil plugs), corrigated split tube (not essential) Tools - Pliers, Hex Keys, Screw Driver, spanners/sockets, crimping tool, multimeter silicone(gasket goo or similar). [ Drill, hacksaw, files ] only needed for bracket WHAT TO DO? Firstly you will start with undoing the decorative cover in the middle of the block which is undone by some hex keys and a few bolts on the ignighter itself. Then unplug the whole coilpack loom so its completely out like this Unbolt the RB coipacks at the brackets so that the whole brackets come out like this This is how the standard coilpack is set up, This is wat we want to achieve for each coilpack, Heres a pic of wat the VN coil looks like Before making any cuts to the loom its self study it, note the black loop which is also included in cylinder 1 (this is for timing lights) and the earth wire ring, both the timing wire and ground are black, the rest are all colored, pink being the main color, when looking at the seven pin-plug with the locking clip towards you right to left is Ground, cylinder 6, cylinder 5, cylinder 4, cylinder 3, cylinder 2, cylinder 1. cylinder 1 is also connected to the timing wire. You will notice that, coming out of the three pin-plug is a slightly larger white wire this is the power wire to power the coil. Get a mulitmeter and put one probe on the 7 pin plug end and then probe out each wire and mark it with(use some white tape and a nikko) and work out which cable ends where. Take apart the whole loom so that u will have no more tape or corrigated tubeing then u will have a big group of wires then arrage all the pink wires together, all the white wires together, all the black wires together, u can cut out 3 of the white wires (only need 3 powers not 6 with the RB setup) same goes with ground but DO NOT CUT OUT black Cylinder 1 cable which is black. It should end up somthing like this, Then u need to crimp the spade plugs onto the ends of the cables and shrink wrap over the top and these are the ends u should have 3 sets of this cyl A&B, Power, Ground (power and ground can be in any order as long as each of the 3 coils have one of each) The cyls are joined in the order of 1 goes with 6 2 goes with 5 3 goes with 4 (cyl 1 is closest to the front of the car and it works back) Just test the loom with a multimeter to make sure this is achieved correctly Now u have to make up your bracket to mount the coilpacks onto i went with a kinda difficult setup but its very solid and easy to replace/change parts, and makes it neater. This is how mines is set up Mount ur bracket on the car, join up the new coilpack loom the the ignighter and power plug and put the spade lugs cyl a&b power into either left or right in each coil doesnt matter as it will work either way and wired should look somthing like this. Once thats done time to plug the sparkleads onto the cylinders remember to hook them up to the same as how each coil is done so it should be 1&6 on coil 1, 2&5 coil2, 3&4 coil3. NOW your ready to test it and WALLA if uve done it right ull have ur Rb20DET running with VN series 2 coilpacks, If it runs then use the silicone to seal ur plugs from water and also to help them stay in. heres mine on and finnished Problems you might faced and how to fix them, Spade plugs not staying in? Go shopping and take ur coil with u there are plugs that FIT perfectly in width and length (they should click when deep enough in) then use silicone to keep them in tight and sealed Not running on all cylinders? check all plugs are in properly WONT START? make sure everythign is grounded where it should be ESPECIALLY UR IGNIGHTER Running very rough? make sure u have correct clys wired together and also right leads to the right coils Thanks guys and good luck HAPPY MODDING! QUIGGA Props to http://www.dsd.co.nz/coils.htm (for the ideas) Mr foster and Frosty for a big help and tools

problem solved i had the earth from the ignighter not grounded 100% so i would run fine then crap out willl post pics up 2morrow for a how too

well the problem is it is missing bigtime... it sounds like its only running on 3 cyls or 4 cyls

edited first post please HELP!