Muff

nope not at all... your old diff is still quite good, from the sounds of it, people might disagree with me but if ur low on oil and its clicking you know its engaging... prob not the best thing to have but wont hurt it too much,.check your oill and dont be a cheap ass... buy the good stuff,... its a lot cheaper than a new diff. if the clicking keeps going . look at shimming it up . but in my case there were jsut some loose subframe bolts... when you put rose jointed camber arms and such items there will always be a little clunk.... when you roll back and break or forward and break... good luck ps if ur diff starts wineing then youve got problems....

if u spin a bearing it will usually lose power stright up, it will have a ticking noise, and starve oil from the rest of the engine, eg ur oil pressure wont go up.

ditto. i had the same problem , turned out to be the loom plug that goes onto the coil....\ look around for any cracks.....take it apart and rewire it if u have too... shouldnt be anything sinister... GL

hay dude i run an rb26 ive replaced mine with VDO / simens Pressure sender/switch... bout 90$ just gotta get the right threads and stuff... GL

Yeah its a push type..... if its 1993 or 1994 its got the better mainshaft and 3rd gear.... if its earlier they are prone to breaking both.... GL Give you 500??????

Ive been using penrite hpr5 for about 3 years.... it got recomended to me form mark jacobson form godzilla motorsport.... bout 50 bucks for 4 L i change my oil every 5000k and filter every 10000 k

Not hard dude... i did mine with a friend... took us about 5 hours... worked perfectly.... drove it to the tuner the nextday.... dont be afraid its only a car... gl

idles at 1100 rpm when its warm. when its cold sits at 950..... havent checked the temp sender yet gonna grab one off another car tomos and try that, the idle doesnt adjust at all with the aac adjustment screw. check iff there were any air leaks .. all reads ok my options left are temperature sensor. or air regulator...... ????????? any one else???????????

Hay guys . i pulled the aac valve off today and cleaned it out.. all works ok... solinoid is ok also.... any ideas ???/ still havent fixed my problem. Enigne RMP doesnt drop at normal speed when the car is warm.????? checked the thermostat looks all good.opening when car is warmed and closed when its cold. any ideas???

Hay guys any ideas on how much gearbox oil is required in an r32 gtr box, and where the best place to fill it is from.. i was just gonna pour it stright down the shifter canyon..... done it before but didnt know what the best way to do it was... we put near 4L im my r33 gtst without it spilling out the side fill plug....so any comments would be appreciated thanks

There you go R33.doc

i use penrite 10w 50 but i used to use motoul turbolight in my rb25 and if ur changing the filter as well it should take 4.8L without the filter 4.2L .. if in dout look in the manual gl

Hay dude bady luck with the bearing. i had the same problem bout 2 days after importing the car.... but saying that..... 9 g is f*king expensive for a build, mine cost 6.5g. but i did some of it myself.... if u can get the engine out.. and in at home thats bout 2 g.... ive got spool rods r34gtr crank nitrided, with cp pistons, 6 L greedy sump, hks step 2 valve springs, 272 cams, and an n1 pump, the head work was the most expensive with some mild porting and engine assembly comming in at 2g, parts were bout between 4 and 4.5 g like i said if ur pretty handy and know how to use a drill and tap you can put in extra lines form the head to the sump, ps if ur gonna do it, use good quality stuff,,,, it may cost more but its better than doing it all again. gl any way..... if ur in bris let me know.... ill give u the number of my engine builder....

i had the same sorta problem... can you hear a click from ur drivers side door when u push the window down or up button???/ if u can id say its the little black relay box behind ur door trim cost like 25 bucks..... mind did both driver and passanger side gl

Sold

Hay guys, the car doenst drop eigine rpm normally when its warm, but will when its cold... the only thin i can put it down too is the aac valve and solinoid. but any ideas wouold help... thanks ps its an r32 gtr

dont clean ur afm with carby cleaner, use co cleaner... if it stalls when u come to a stop id say its ur aac valve. it sits at the back of the plenum and has a solinoid atached to it. pull it apart and see if there is anything abnornal.. if the spring is f*ked or what .. give it a clean put it back,.... this was my problem... good luck ps carby cleaner is acidic and will f**k ur afm if used, maby not stright away but eventually

i Had the same probel im my r33gtst and in my r32 gtr... i was using all sorts of sythetic oils and it never changed.\ i got told to run Penrite hpr 50 yes its a 10 w 50 but shuts the engine up..... with the gtst it was the lifters. and with the gtr it was the solid cams i also found that buy running octane booster it made it quieter, not sure if u had ur timing belt done ova here or in jap , but make sure that they have retarded the exhaust cam buy at least a degree. mainly because of the lower octane fuel..... hope this helps.. good luck

how long since you drove it last.... can u clutch start it??? if u can clutch it drive it round for a bit then turn it off, if it wont start again id say its ur starter...... does it turn ova or just tick???? if it just ticks it should just be ur battery.. do u have an imobiliser???

what car is it for???

prob standard of 86 mm..

Hay guys im looking for a IAC valve that sits under the plenum on an rb26, am willing to purchase the plenum aswell if i have to. Thanks

you got the Iac valve on the bottem of the plenum???

Have you been bothered checking the wheel speed sensors or doing a self diognostic???? if its a gtr ive hade the same probelm turned out to be the hicas computer, i know u have a lock out bar but the computer still controles the powersteering if you need a guide to do a self diog pm me. gl dude

where u located dude ????????????????????