Cjmartz2k

Blowing out your exhaust gasket is not major damage like burnt valves or a warped head, especially not from heat, which is what was stated. Also, I don't know what ECV you have been looking at, but mine almost completely blocked off the exhaust. There was only an opening about the thickness of a credit card between the valve and the wall of the exhaust the entire way around the pipe. It absolutely KILLED my power when it was 100% shut. Way more than the silencer I had before the ECV. Definition of a nutswinger from the urban dictionary....... I have long said and will still maintain; SAU has some of the best info about Skylines and RB's on the net. There is, however, a lot of BS that is based on some crap somebody wrote 5-6 years ago not based on any real experience and it just keeps getting repeated and repeated until it's taken as fact by 90% of people out there. If you haven't seen something happen first hand or talked to somebody who has, the STFU. BTW, I may disagree with Nismoid on more than a few things, but he knows a shit ton about skylines and RB's. The main people I'm venting at are the people blindly agreeing with his wrong point in this thread with no idea what they are talking about.

How about this for full of shit. Have you ever done this or seen it and resulting engine damage, or are you just using your vast Internet knowledge and unquestioned "rep" on here? Yeah, that's what I thought. I had an ECV. Accidental left it half way closed and drove around for 3-4 hours trying to figure out why I couldn't boost more than 1 bar (with my HX40 turbo.) Figured it out a couple hours later after trying different stuff and running it out through the gears with no change. No damage. I've also screwed around with it after this at varying of the ECV being shut. The more it's shut, the less it boosts. I'm not saying a person should do this and I'm not saying it COULDN'T hurt a motor, but making a blanket statement like "DON'T BOOST IT AT ALL!! IT WILL BLOW UP!!" is stupid. I am speaking from first hand knowledge. WHat are you speaking from Nismoid & Nismoid nut swingers? Guilt Toy is right, R31Nismoid is wrong. OP--don't use that as your primary exhaust silencer. Get a proper exhaust. If you put a silencer in though and boost it, it's not going to blow up right away.

If the factory oil pressure gage AND the idiot red light came on, you have a real problem, not a wiring problem. The red light is a seperate sensor that's just and on/off pressure switch and it's completely independent of the normal gage.

Yeah, sorry, I meant I don't like power vs. speed. I'm in favor of power vs. rpm in 4th. And as mentioned, the type of dyno and the loading (or lack of) will affect the boost curve massively. More so than a difference a rear diff ratio is going to make. Things will never be exactly the same when comparing dyno sheets on a forum.

Because you are trying to see what your ENGINE is doing when you put it on a dyno, not how the car will perform. You have the track for that--and don't say suspension/tires don't allow for that, because you can look at mph and just how fast you went down the last half of the 1/4. The power vs. RPM dyno sheets look useless IMHO, and I think it's just the operator not feeling like setting everything up for an RPM reading. Just my opinion though.

Thank you for making my point for me. There is no "oil stuck in the head" problem. It's a crappy sump design problem.

Quick question. Is it just me, or does it seem like the overwhelming majority of spun main/rod bearings are occuring in RB26's?

Why not do the GT3076 on pulp with 700cc's and water/meth injection?

Has anybody mentioned you can make that kind of power figure on a stock RB25 for years with out breaking anything? (well, excluding tranny's, rear ends, and half shafts)

.its skylines and specific discussion lol That's because the mod moved it for you smart guy.

No problem. Pretty crazy stuff the first time you read about it, isn't it? Who'd have thought injecting a meth/water mixture would help performance? There is actually a pretty long history of at least water injection going back to even before WWII believe it or not.

Ahh, okay. That makes more sense. I still think you can do it with an old 350 based engine for cheaper then what you mentioned, but there certainly is a substantial jump up in challenge/price when you try it with a pre-LSX series motor.

Have you seen any of the threads about repairing your own coil packs? I've only had a few coil packs I couldn't save (out of many). Probably worth your time.

I was directing that mostly at payback, however, I find it curious that they sell premixed water/meth (called boost juice) and it doesn't come with any type of experation, nor does the common everyday windshield washer fluid that is 40% meth 60% water. Hmmmm.....

WAY more common. HX35's come on every Dodge diesel pick up truck you see driving down the road. People often get them for free from the Dodge guys upgrading to something bigger. That's one of the big draws for Holsets. They are great turbo's, but if I had to pay $1500 for one new, I probably wouldn't be running one right now.

Well, at least there is one thing in this thread I can agree with. OP--I'm not going to get into the "aussie hp vs american hp" debate again, although I think you should clarify if you mean rwhp or motor hp. We do for the most part talk about rwhp on this board and most others now actually. I will say admitting you don't already have an assembled engine and your pockets aren't exactly lined with cash, you might want to knock out building your engine before you dream about what turbo to buy. I think saying you need to spend $30-$40k on an engine (especially an LSX) to get 700rwhp is a bit mellow dramatic, but people LOVE to throw money at stuff on here, so take it for what it's worth. I'm not going to push my turbo choice too hard since everybody needs to make up their own mind, but I will say considering you budget, the fact that you are in the states, and hp goals, you should for sure look into the Holset HX52 (the holset thread I created would be a good starting point) as Lithium mentioned earlier in the thread. I think it would be an excellent fit for what you are looking to do.

Wow, so much misinformation in this thread. First off, a Z32 MAF is no bigger than a stock RB MAF, it is just capable of measuring more air. You don't gain hp by installing one, you can just support making more. Second, the RB's throttle bodies are all the same n/a vs turbo. It's just one of those "internet facts" that probably started because the SR20det guys grab the larger TB of the n/a SR's for an upgrade because it is, in fact larger. That's not the case with RB's. Just like the rumors you hear sometimes about the n/a cams being larger. The only case that is true is on the S13 SR20det vs. the n/a S13 SR20de. People really should invest more time researching things more than just what they heard on an internet chat forum before they do them to their engines.

No biggy, I just get in debates with the garret name brand nut swingers all the time about "how much harder it is to install one of these 'diesel' turbos" when it's exactly the same if you are comparing apples to apples. Sorry, I'm overly touchy on the subject sometimes

I think you are not grasping what the OP is talking about. This water/meth injection has nothing to do with his fuel system (mostly). He's injecting this atomized mixture of water/methanol into his intake air stream after the intercooler. It cools the intake charge and reduces your knock threshold letting you run more timing, more boost, and not have to use fuel to cool the combustion temps there by letting you run a bit "leaner". http://www.snowperformance.net/faqs_type.php?type=gasoline Read that.

Nice results man! Those are the kind of spool times I was expecting also. If you are interested in the VGT turbo's, might want to check this out -----------> http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/4639...troller-project Super interesting stuff. If you can get it working, it would be an amazing turbo. It would blow any other turbo I can think of out of the water. And bozodos, there is no more custom fab work on one of them than there would be installing any externally gated GT30r, except you'll need a spacer. They do not, however, make low mount internally gated, bolt on holsets for RB's though, and I believe they do make GT30's like that.

Are you guys talking about the same thing? OP, are you talking about water/methenol spray injection into the intercooler piping?

Try swapping injectors around and see if it the problem follows the injector.

Clean it, inspect the cam journals for wear marks due to debris.

Please don't take that thread as gospel. A LOT of people (including myself) think that there is no "oil stuck in the head" problem, and that a lot of these RB26's with spun bearings are due to poor sump design. Ever notice how the majority of spun bearings are on 26 engines? Much different sump design. Tomei even advises not to use a restrictor on RB's with hydraulic lifters. By all means, read the thread and decide for yourself, but keep an open mind.

Mine is the same way. It's not popping all the way off unless I'm above 1.5 bar.