Cjmartz2k

duration = how long it keeps the valve open for lift = how much it opens the valve opens 5 BTDC= 5 degrees before top dead center closes 55 ABDC = closes 55 degrees after bottom dead center LCA = lobe center angle? overlap = how many degrees both intake and exhuast valves will be open at the same time LSA = lobe seperation angle

Thanks man, appreciate the compliment What does the factory gage read?

I've read some interesting information from a well known and respected engine builder here on Okinawa. I'm interested in what you guys have to say about what he has to say since it's contrary to the common "knowledge" on the boards. Discuss...............

IMHO BOV's are not needed. Whether or not they actually extend the life of the turbo is something that has yet to be proven to me. I understand how the theory works, I just don't think they make that much of a practical difference. You could also make the argument they will keep you in boost better between gear shifts. I might buy that one a little bit easier. Also, people will point out they came that way from the factory. I would submit that they did that for emissions control and "noise standards" as anything else. I've never met anybody that wasn't running a BOV that had a worn out turbo, and most of my friends don't run one here on Oki, and I've been here for 4 years now. All that being said, I have a Greddy Type R on mine, but I've got that sucker cranked down hard enough where it only blow's off above 1 bar, so it's not doing anything during daily driving.

1. It's Houston, not Huston 2. Is you BOV recirculated? 3. You put a T3/T4 style hybrid turbo on your car and you haven't tuned it yet?

Well, most of the things you just listed as "checked" have nothing to do with oil pressure (unless you ran out of oil). Putting more oil in it will not increase pressure (although thicker oil will), and cylinder pressure has zero to do with it also. With 0 pressure at hot idle, and just over 1 bar after some throttle, I hope for your sake it is the gage.

Yeah, I think that's the case. I wonder where that mis-information came from? I'm not actually to worried about it though. After all the talk about needing one I see on the internet, I don't actually know of anybody in person or even on the internet that has had a motor die because of it. I see RB26's die of oil starvation, but always due to the crappy oil pan design, not the crank collar.

Maybe it's just me, but I've only ever heard of a turbine wheel being "clipped" on the top or crown i.e. the surface that faces you when you look into the turbo's pooper, not around the edges. In effect, you make the turbine wheel "shorter".

With no tune, you'll make less power at higher boost on the stock turbo, but your not going to blow the engine (unless you boost enough to shit the turbo). When my RB25 was just fully bolt on (ex manifold, elbow, dump, de-cat, cat back, intake pipe, fmic, etc.) on the stock ecu, I make 285rwhp at .75 bar, and 258rwhp at 1.0 bar on the stock turbo. The ecu freaks out when it sees that much air and throw's a bunch of fuel at the motor and pulls timing to keep it safe. It'll sound stronger, but it's not. Anyways no, you are fine at 11psi on the stock ecu.

This is just a parts motor, so I'm not really trying to spend any money on it. I just thought I'd be getting a fixed crank for parts too and I was a little disappointed. Thanks for the confirmation on the rods and the crank though guys. Strange. Everything I've read on the internet says it should have the fixed snout, RB26 rods (which it has), solid lifters (which it has), and the head is the same as the n/a neo motor, but the first one I had which came out of a R34 n/a car was way different from this turbo motor's head.

Started to finish taking apart the rest of this Neo motor today. It came out of a automatic Laurel, not an R34. Anyways, had a few surprises. Head was solid lifter'd as I thought, and I think it has the bigger RB26 sized rods (you tell me) but the crank......... I thought Neo's had the "fixed" crank collar? Does anybody have a picture handy of a long collared snout? This isn't one, right? And here's some pics of a rod. Looks thicker than normal, right? Just want to make sure since I don't have one here to compare it too.

Basically. Their will be a gap between the turbine wheel and the exhaust housing. If would sping super slowly and with out much force if at all.

Wrong section.

Yeah, I drag primarly, but I can go through the twisties with the best of them, and I don't know how awful much of that I ever spend below 4k rpm. My big arse slow spooling diesel bus turbo is full boogy by right at 4k and I think the way it hits when I put the hammer down is more than enough to compete with your 3.0L, but I'm not familiar with your setup, so I'd reserve judgement until I saw it. I love down low torque--I'm a V8 guy at heart and have a jeep with a stroker I6 in it in the states, but I don't know how aweful useful power below 4k is unless your talking about tight parking lot courses or crawling over rocks in the jeep.

Who?

I can completely agree with that. I just wanted to throw out there that it is the particular effect everybody if chasing with these mods and all this effort, not more hp or better low end power. A lot of people out there confuse the two I think.

Just curious, does your motor look like this.......... or like this.......... If it's the first one, the whole "2500" label vs. the "RB26" on the front of the timing cover may clue you in. Confusing, I know, mixing all those numbers with letters and what not, but they can actaully be deciphered believe it or not. O yeah, then there is that little blue plate on you fire wall that actually tells you what motor you have in case you didn't notice already while looking past your engine to look at the plate

Lag or less throttle response? Switching from a stock 25 intake to a stock 26 intake with ITB's and lost noticable low end due grunt to the short runners on the 26 intake. I think my friends home made short runner intake for his 25 with a Q45 has pretty snappy throttle response, even compared to mine. I think throttle response is kind of one of one of those over rated internet buzz words. It sounds real snappy blipping the throttle out of gear, and I get almost feedback when I hit the gas in gear, but I'm not sure how much faster I am.

That's the diff I thought they had. Which one is it? Now if you are you guys just calling the clutch disc type diff a really weak 2 way? If so, you might as well call a viscous a really really weak 2 way. Clutch disc type diff's are no where near what a mechanical 2 way diff is, but both viscous and clutch disc type diffs don't care what direction they are going in order to work.

I just used a bolt to plug the VCT hole. Needed some gasket material for custom gaskets. I also did a fair bit of port matching. My RB25 is in a R32, so I have VERY little room between the shock tower/brake master cylinder and the surge tank. If the tank ever needs to come off, the BMC is going to have to come out, and maybe the engine. Also, I think I had to use the RB26 oil cooler/filter mount.

Search. This has been discussed already, but bottom line, you don't want the oil/gas/carbon blow bye mixture going back into your oil, do you? What are you even gaining other than a cap full of oil back into your sump? Just check your oil and add as needed.

What kind of ballpark MPH do GT35r's usually get? Mid 120's?

GTR's don't have 2 way's in them stock.

Just curious, why are you getting rid of it?

I didn't look and see what size dump it was, I just chose the ones closest to the top of the list. They have them in 3" and larger. Bigger wastegate does seem like a good option to me, but I think somebody with GT3037 specific experience could say better. I had a single 50mm WG and I would loose boost on the top end. I ported out the manifold WG runners and and WG, then it would hold boost all the way to red line. As the weather got cooler however, I then started having boost creep problems, so we chopped up the manifold at the WG runners, re-angled them, and added a second 50mm wastegate. Now it holds boost rock steady at 1.7 bar and we were able to put 12 degrees of timing back into the MAP at peak torque due to a LOT lower backpressure in the manifold.