Cjmartz2k

I didn't know they did pre-oiling also. That's good stuff. Might have to look into one of these if they are that cheap.

And what exactly are you basing this off of? Please don't quote where you read it on the internet to me either. Theory and real world application are two different things. OP--if you are interested in putting your MAF in you intercooler piping, google "blow through MAF" and see what comes up. A lot of americans do it. I don't know how well it works with out tuning, but there is some good info out there about it.

A lot of guys here in the states use them with out issue.

He's considering it because when you do a draw through set up like he's talking about, it prevents stalling when the BOV does it's thing, and many people have problems with turbulence in the intake piping when they use a MAF on a top mount set up due to space considerations and not being able to keep the MAF far enough away from the turbo. OP--of all the BOV's I've seen going VTA, the Greddy Type R seems the least obnoxious to me. It's a relatively large orafice it vents through so it's quiet'ish and decidedly not "chirpy". I'm completely with you on your taste of BOV noise (or lack there of).

Are you in Ohio? I'm from Cleveland! 26 head casting flows the same as a 25 BTW. Only advantage is solid lifters, different cams, and the intake. You can do all of those aftermarket style, but the solid lifters are vastly over rated for a street car with mild cams and a smallish turbo IMHO. So are the ITB's.

The only reason they are there is to match the hump that's in the exhaust manifold. Loose it. That's really the only major thing that needs done for a street port on an RB25/26 head other than polishing the bowls and matching up the intake ports.

He's in Okinawa (japan) and running japanese high octane. That's a little silly saying "just shift gears". It shouldn't do that if it's properly tuned, which is what he's trying to do. He's using a rom tune that he's doing himself. What he's asking (I'm guessing) is what else could make it knock. I still think it's just timing and more needs to be pulled out, but I understand that's hard to do with out a map tracer. Winston, what's it knocking? Also, isn't it kicking itself down into the "knock maps"?

It's a very common practice with holsets and I don't know of anybody who's ever had a problem with it. I have done it myself with 4 different turbos. I will not say for certain since I have not seen the factory service manual myself, but according to the DSM guys, it even says you don't need to rebuild them unless there is obvious foreign object debris damage. Maybe the quality of balancing with some turbos is better then what you are used dealing with. I'm not saying it's not a waste of money to do it, but with some turbo's, it's most certainly not a "must". **With a VG turbo though, I'd have it balanced. How much does it cost down under for that kinda service?

Depends on the type of turbo. I don't think you can do it with garrets, but don't quote me on that. I know holsets come with each individual piece balanced from the factory. I've swapped compressor wheels on them before and know a lot of other people who have done it with zero problems.

Wouldn't one of the adapter plates the GTR guys use to put RWD RB30's into there machines work? Probably expensive'ish, but once you are over the initial hump, you can always use cheaper RWD RB25's. Those are like $300 back on Okinawa, but I assume a bit more there. Are stagea RB25's hard to find/expensive?

I ran a Greddy type R with the soft spring at around 1.9 bar with no problems.

IAC valve should still be pulling metered air, so I don't think so.

normal

I hope you die piece of shit spammer.

Glad to hear it! That should put garrett into the lead performance wise for a while. I wonder if they will charge a bunch more for these, or lower the prices of what they already sell and price these similar to what's out there now.

Yes, of course he needs to get it tuned, and he already admitted it. Now that everybody is done repeating the normal line, why don't we read what he posted again and reply. His a/f's shouldn't change at idle if all he did was bolt on a bigger turbo. That doesn't make any sense. Bolt on a T88 and as long as you aren't changing injectors, cams, MAF, etc., it should idle the same. Something else had to change to do that. Might be worth looking into before he gets it tuned. I'm not saying it's what's going on, but what if he developed some kind of exhaust leak and that's why the wide band is showing leaner. Should he still go out and tune with that equipment with the wide band being "off"? OP--what kind of MAF voltage are you pulling at idle compared to the stock turbo? BTW, you are going to need a Z32 MAF for that turbo. I had that same turbo (loved it) and was hitting 4.9-5v at around 1.6 bar with it on a Z32 MAF, so even a z32 MAF is going to be about at it's limit, but it'll work. That stock one needs to go. Also, I just noticed you have an RB30/25. That actually might be much to small of a hotside for that turbo. I'd be looking in to a full HX40 at some point if it were me IMHO.

3" = about 80mm 4' = about 100mm You could get reducers if you want to go cheap, but if you are blowing a load on name brand pipes anyways, I doubt you'll do that.

Jeez, your tuned for 10.5:1 AFR's at WOT??

Use an RB20 mount and then put the aftermarket oil cooler plate on that.

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Agreed, but I don't see how a high flow lift pump would make the heat problem worse than normal. I think it's just to much going to the engine bay during low speed cruising.

Completely agree BTW, granthem, are you sure you still have VCT? I didn't know any of the HKS cams kept VCT.