Cjmartz2k

R32 and R33 rear brakes are the same (GTSt).

I have seen a motor crack the head due to excessive crank case pressure cuased by somebody just blocking off the EGR valve. Think about it, the gases have to go somewhere. They can build up for a little while, but after a while of constantly flogging it, it's something's going to give.

Wow, this thread got off topic quick. Time to start a new thread with no chit chat or debate, and just #'s (like the dyno stickies). I personaly think it's all in the tune untill around 600bhp when you start getting close to lifting the head or snapping a con-rod. Also, do you guys have a good hp to KW calculator us Yankees can use? Anywho, with my old setup, I made 400rwhp with a completly stock motor. Stock headgasket, cams, pistons, rods, intake manifold, throttle body, etc with a TO4e @ 1.2 bar (dropping off to around .9 at the end). I ran it like this for around 8 months. I'm now running a Holset HX35/40 hybrid @ 1.5bar. I haven't had it to the dyno yet (maybe next week) but it feels a good 60-100hp faster with my hyper accurate butt-o-meter. I guess I will find out. Also, I have a friend who is made 480rwhp with one of those ebay special "Super T70" crappy turbos (although it did last 3 years on 2 different cars before it finaly walked the exhaust wheel into the housing). He also has a completly stock long block, but he has a custom intake manifold made with RB25 runners and a RB26 surge tank, and a Q45 TB. He also beats the snot out of his car and shifts around 8k. I've got money on his blowing up soon, but that's more because of how he treats it. I shift around 7.5k and don't bounce it off the rev limiter doing donuts and burnouts like him. Fun to watch though I think we are a little more daring with our cars when a stock long block is $300 USD from any junk yard around here (Okinawa).

I don't know if this is meaningful input to this but I was running 400rwhp from a T04e (.56 trim, .84 a/r P trim) for around 6 months, till I put on this Holset HX35/40. Now I'm running 1.5 bar (22psi) and I haven't dyno'd it yet, but it's at least 70-80hp faster measured with my super accurate butt dyno :laughing-smiley-014: . I've never even had the valve covers off the motor (except to paint them), stock HG, cams, intake manifold, TB, etc. I really think it's all in the tune--and I'm running around 12.1-12.3:1 air fuel with ex temps around 800-850c at the highest.

x2. It is the exact same size as a RB20/25 AFM. Only difference is how much hp 0-5v equals. It's not a performance upgrade like everybody thinks, it's a support mod.

You said it wouldn't start--it won't turn over at all or it would actually start? If it won't even turn over, you just trashed a motor. Either pieces are wedged in the motor or you starved it of oil and it seized (if it won't turn over at all).

Check for an exuast leak and make sure the wide band is screwed in all the way.

Pretty stiff, but not an OMG difference or anything

I'm running 33 GTSt brakes on my R32 with the stock master cylinder. I also have stock pads in back, and Project Mu pads up front, and my fronts lock up pretty easy compared to the back. I don't know if this is because of the 33 front rotors/calipers or the pads (or the 235 front/255 rear tires). I'm going to be putting on some Endless rear pads possible this weekend, so I'll let you know what I discover.

Stock RB25 stock gasket stock cams stock intake/TB HKS log manifold TO4e 399.3 RWHP Can anybody tell me what that is in Kw? Also, any guess what that would do in the 1/4 with drag radials? This is in a R32 BTW.

I think what he meant by you won't feel it is don't expect a big difference. Can your butt dyno feel 5-10hp?

Not true. I have a RB25 motor/tranny in my R32 with a chopped/hybrid speed sensor in the tranny. It now has the cable output going into the dash. Even with the speedo disconected (read broken), my PFC told me how fast I was going and the speedo said bupkiss.

Vacum leak. Check again.