Cjmartz2k

Standard RB25 is on/off, neo if variable.

LOL, that was the most incoherent, least informative paragraph I have read in a while. Is it possible your mechanic was speaking proper english and you just don't understand it? You even contradict yourself saying . Anyways to moodles, no, you can't replace a valve with out taking the head off.

Yeah, Borg-Warners aren't cheap turbo's new and they don't make To4e's either. That's a china knock off man.

Since your in Canada, just order something from summit or even AutoZone if Canada has those. Something like a dynomax or something should flow real well and they aren't a straight through design. I've always wondered what a flowmaster would sound like on an RB lol. Just go down to your local muffler shop and they can install what you want.

Pressure drop from the IC

The two ends are the feeds, the midle is the return, which goes into the side port on the FPR. Bottom of the FPR goes back to the tank. Vacuum into the top of the FPR.

Don't encourage douche bag spammers.

Answering the question you asked, no, you'll need to pull the motor. Well, at least pull the head when it's time to put the piston/rod assemble back in. And for the record, while I agree the ringlands are the weak spot on an RB25, I've seen people bend connecting rods with out hurting the piston from simply making to much hp.

My intake with the IAC housing and adapter plates (blitz I think) is in a box and on the way over here from japan, but I won't get it until the middle of December. I'm pretty sure I used the 25 IAC though with some creative bends in the vacuum tubing.

I've actually seen a motor (RB25 IIRC) that ate all of it's valves on the exhaust side. The "adjustment" was all the way to one side. The shop guy surmised that either the adjustment slipped and ate all the valves, or when it ate the valves for what ever reason, it forced the adjustment all the way to one side. Either way, the 3 bolts holding the adjustment in place slipped and it didn't seem like there was enough clamping force there. I run HKS gears, but I'd prefer something else just for peace of mind.

No, and I wouldn't re-use an after market metal one either, but some people do it with success. But to reiterate, the stock one can NOT be re-used.

Stock gasket is just fine, and my prefered gasket period. I remember a time not to long ago when people were saying if you went "above 1.2 bar of boost, you'll blow out your stock gasket". Morons. I know of 3 stock headgasket'ed 500hp+ RB's back in Okinawa.

Dude, it just sounds like to me for some reason one or coil packs aren't firing. When you consider you just swapped coil packs, you probably just didn't get one clipped on correctly, broke a part of the coil pack harness, or didn't get that ground at the back properly seated. Also maybe a couple of the coil packs are dead, but I doubt it.

O boy, I don't know then. I think the whole oil getting stuck in the head thing is a bunch of crap so I never really messed with oil restrictors. That's kinda scary that it happened after an oil change though. I loved the holset (car is taken apart now) and plan on re-installing it when I build another car. Probably go with a bigger holset after I get board with that one. A lot of my friends on Okinawa started running them too after seeing and racing/riding in mine. Several people went directly from GT series garrett to Holset and say they won't go back.

Did you use the right head gasket?

O yeah, I always forget about those.

Wait, are you talking about a stock gauge? Do GTR's have stock oil temp gauges? I didn't know that. I thought they just had oil pressure gages. Cool.

Trin, what ever happened to the neo?

Why is this urgent? BTW, you not wanting to wait doesn't count.

I'd find a different shop to say the least.

Even an HX40 is going to have a hard time getting you those kinda numbers. I think you should be looking at a monster like an HX52. Look at the summary at the beggining of the thread (then subtract 80hp from what ever number they put up LOL).

No idea about the 34 SMIC. Turning up the boost with out a tune will make you loose power after a point also. Lastly, your boost with the stock turbo isn't limited due to you intercooler, it's the fact your exhaust wheel will eventually explode off the shaft. If you want 300rwhp, get all the supporting mods needed (you can research that yourself) and get a tune.

Intercoolers are more of a supporting mod than a hp mod. If you aren't heat soaking the one you have, and the side mount can flow enough (I dunno about that, but I'd guess yes) then it's not going to make any more hp just by slapping it on. You might get a SMALL gain if you had it tuned at the same time if you could indeed put more timing into it. Bottom line, your not going to get 25rwhp from just installing a FMIC.

Oh, 3800 in second gear, that explains it. I try to use the 4th gear figures since that just seems to be what most people judge by and what dyno's are done in and all. I was pretty hard for me (and I'm sure you as well) to get real meaningful figures since the tires just fry as soon as it makes boost in 2nd, even with drag radials. What size housing did you wind up going with? It's good to hear it's not choking it out up top. Have you thought about stepping up to the 7 blade compressor? Those are supposed to flow 9lb/min more, but I don't know if the hot side could handle that.

Looks like good power, but I'm a little surprised at the boost. That looks about what I boost on my 2.5L with the HX40. Do you have another turbo graph plotting out boost vs. rpm?