Cjmartz2k

Sorry, we have a typhoon here right now so no vids for the next couple of days. Soon though, I promise. I've got a couple other people asking for them on another board also, so I'll get to it soon. CEF, what kind of figures are you looking for? HP/dyno/track numbers I assume? Best place for that would be the results thread the DSM guys have put together here but those are mostly 2.0L 4G63 motors, so it's not apples to apples.

I understood what you were saying I just didn't get your point. My point was for the hp level N1's can provide, if those spool numbers listed in the first post are correct, my turbo can provide much more hp with better spool. I was commenting on how poorly his N1's perform compared to my turbo. Also, I think you assume to much about when what turbo(s) spools on which motor. RB25's have a higher compression ratio, a long runner intake manifold, and VCT. I'm no longer running VCT and I'm also running a short runner RB26 intake and ITB's, but I doubt you bothered to research my set up that in depth before you commented. .1L is not much in the grand scheme of things. I wouldn't be surprised at all if a 25 in stock fashion would spool those N1's quicker. I'm not saying they would for sure, but you are putting to much faith in .1L of displacement.

What? I must be missing your point here.

Really?? I get better spool than that on my 2.5L with my "laggy diesel bus turbo". That's pretty laggy.

Just one thing about the GTR intake/ITB's set up. It's a short runner intake design and is better at high end flow than low end torque. The ITB's produce better throttle response, not better low end power. Their is a world of difference between those two and most people mistakenly consider them one and the same.

I used the ceramic stuff. It was on my downpipe for a couple years. I don't think it was any more or less brittle than the other stuff after that long.

Just like they do with spark plugs, turbo's, and most everything else they make. I can't stop laughing when I hear HKS/SARD/Blitz/etc. nut swingers going on and on about how great their super expensive JDM brand parts are and how much research HKS puts into them.

The number is more important than the color. It should end in "N62" for the turbo Z32 MAF. I don't think the non turbo VG's are the same, but the turbo ones are IIRC.

You can warp the head for one. 98 isn't going to break anything, but it's higher than it should be. Mine gets a bit to hot one hot sunny days with the a/c going after I've been creeping along in traffic for too long. I turn the a/c off when it gets over 100 to let it cool back down. usually around 110-115 your coolant will start to boil.

I want to see a vid with you cracking open the waste gate :-)

98 is to hot for just normal driving on a daily basis for any RB. I don't know what hypergear is talking about. Did you try bleeding it to see if there is any air in the system?

MPH?

It won't hurt the turbo. Enjoy the sound.

SydneyKid--I'll be the first to admit to just went way past my experience in relation to the dry sump set up. While I know what they are, I've never worked with one nor have seen a car in more than passing that has one, so I can't really argue that point. I think we are discussing from two different view points. I'll argue till I'm blue in the face that in a daily driven and weekend track toy, draining the catch can back into the sump is a bad idea, and thus a bad idea for 95% of the people on the forum. I can't speak from anything other than conjecture about your type of application, so I well relent the point when it comes to track only cars. I still don't see enough of a benefit vs. potential side effects like oil contamination, but it's theoretical to me and daily practice for you, so I think I would be being a bit of an "internet mechanic" (which is something I loath) to argue otherwise. One last point I would like to make more to clarify my position more than anything else is I don't think what comes out of the hose has any useful oil in it. While there may be some, I think the baffles in the valve covers get 95% of the good oil that was in the gas back into the head since I believe the only good oil is just suspended in small droplets after it got whipped up. I believe the vapor that is left, while still containing a small bit off suspended oil, contains mostly carbon, unburnt fuel, and burnt oil. All the nastiness from the combustion chamber that didn't stay where it should. I think when you try and get the last little bit of oil out of that, you are also getting some of the bad things. It may not be as dramatic as I think, but in a street car, is it really worth the chance? Again, I understand you aren't talking about street cars. That was more aimed at people reading this trying to figure out what to do about there set up. DiscoP and GTRZ-- I completely agree with not being closed minded and not getting so caught up in your own argument you can't hear the other side. I may be guilty of that at times, especially on this forum, and I apologize for the times I have. I (maybe incorrectly) perceive that, as DirtGarage mentioned, there seems to be a bit of a cheering squad here on SAU that constantly repeat the same commonly held and espoused beliefs/views of a few people on here with actual experience and/or a high post count (NOT directed at anybody in particular). My thread about Holset turbos was a good example. Me and DiscoP had some great converstation and he brought up some excellent points. What I hate is the guys who post up "just get a GT30r and be done with it. No reason not to do it correctly" and "quit mucking about with old tech diesel turbo's" when the same people have never ran anything other than a stock turbo on their stock R33 GTSt. DirtGarage--I'm pretty sure my views fall in line with yours on most things, but I can't say that I've had NEAR as much experience as either you or sydneykid, especially when it comes to open tracking type stuff. And just to lighten up the mood a bit............

***Add on--the baffles keep splashed/suspended oil from escaping into the blow by lines. That's what the factory put them there for. I'm sure you've had the oil cap off while the engine is running before. Even at idle, there is a decent amount of oil splashing it's way out of that little hole. Imagine it at 8k rpm. Also, the factory breathers are under slight vacuum due to the venturi effect when the blow by hose is connected to the intake piping. TO get the same effect in big turbo aftermarket set ups, a lot of the supra guys in the states run their blow by dumps into the exhaust with the same effect of creating slight vacuum and clearing out the crank case gasses better.

Why? If your engines have no blow by, they aren't burning oil anyways. Even if they did, are you really going to eat enough oil over a couple hours of WOT to need it? Again, I'm coming from a street/strip car mindset. I know you are talking about built/prepped race cars, but most of the people reading this are not, and are wondering what's best for their car. Needing to drain your blow by back into the sump because your worried about running low on oil during a long race should be the exception to the rule, not the standard. The vapor making it out to the catch can is hitting a much "colder" surface and condensing out more readily than inside the engine. Also, the blow by vapor is NOT the same content as the oil that is whipped up and suspended in the air (which is what the cam baffles are keeping from escaping). If it were, you would have just as much blow by with out you engine being a "breather". Even if your lucky and it is only burnt oil getting past the rings (and I still maintain there is a lot of unburnt fuel in there), do you want condensed burnt oil vapors going back into your sump? People spend all this money on expensive top of the line oils and change them often just to put garbage right back into the oil. I don't understand it. What difference is there between the blow by in the catch can and the oil in your sump? Smell a cup of each and tell me if you can sense a difference. Fuel smell is what you'll smell I'd wager.

What is the benefit of recycling your blow by back into the sump? Please tell me it's something more meaningful than not having to fill up the oil as often. Also, what kind of filtration system would you run that filters the fuel vapor from the oil vapor and only returns the oil back into the sump? And yes, I know this is all a moot point since your engines have zero blow by, I'm just saying for the average street/strip car out there that does.

Gotcha, and yeah, I think most people on here just do regular oil changes with out getting the oil sent off. I've done it a couple times after I put a stroker motor in my jeep, but only because it was a fresh motor and I wanted to gauge it's health.

I'm sure you've smelled blow by before. Are you telling me depending on the state of the motor or quality of the build/tune that there isn't unburnt fuel vapor and carbon in blow by?

Agree. And stop worrying about the cute little noise your turbo makes when you let up on the go pedal.

It really sucks, and I feel sorry for both car's driver's. That being said, I think maybe some people are over reacting a bit. Sure their are probably a few things that could have been done to improve safety and over all set up (going straight wise) but when you take your car out on to a track, you should know there is always a chance of this kind of thing happening, especially if the sanctioning body doesn't hold track/people to the highest standards, as it appears it might be in this case. We don't have a track here on Oki. It's all late night one person going down the wrong side of the road craziness and if somebody comes into the side of my car, I'm going to be pissed, but I'm not going to expect compensation unless they did it on purpose. In that case, simply asking for money isn't going to fix things. Show me somebody "down under" who hasn't gotten a little all over the place drag racing and I'll show you somebody who has never driven a fast car. I'm not saying really fast cars can't be stable, but it takes it a while to get it set up right. Also, I think the shitty track plus 7.5psi in the tires and that much hp is what caused all this. Potential driving mistakes are something we can all make and unless it's something intentionally stupid which it doesn't seem to be in this case, I don't think people should bust balls too bad. This is the internet though, so I guess it's not as serious what people say on here as much as what happened on the track there.

Wow, that's great! Is that still the B-W turbo?

I don't think anybody is arguing that this mod is a bad thing. To the contrary, the guy that gave me this info, along with my own shop guy both highly recommend it. They just both go out of their way to say that this mod is for gases inside the crank case, especially on really high revving, high boost engines, not oil getting stuck in the head. They both agree there is NO oil getting stuck in the head problem endemic to RB's, stock oil pump or high flow. To be honest, this is the only forum that deals with RB motors that I've ever even heard of this "problem" on. My point to posting up what I don't think it's the end all be all mod that you must do before you track your car or do a burn out that some people on here make it out to be............and no, that wasn't a shot at anybody, especially SidneyKid--who knows 10x what I know about Skylines. I just disagree on this point.

More messages from the same engine builder.................. Still waiting for arguments to the contrary by the supporters of this mod. Trying to get an honest discussion going here.

I wouldn't say over rated, but yeah, they aren't magical by any means. They are the best bang for the buck out there IMHO as I stated in my other thread. They perform every bit as well as ball bearing GT series turbos and far as spool and hp go. One are the fall "short" in is that they are HUGE physically. If you are doing the top mount route though, they are exactly the same as installing any other externally gated turbo, except the don't cost $1500 and can be rebuilt on the cheap. I don't think a holset would be my first choice for a bottom or side mount where space is a concern, but I wouldn't trade my top mounted HX40 for a GT35r any day. In summary, best thing about them is the price to performance ratio, but if you are going to have to pay a lot of $ to install it bottom/side mount (because you can't do it yourself like CEF11 did ) then you are kind of defeating the main purpose of running a holset.