Cjmartz2k

Did you double check to make sure your fuel lines aren't put on backwards? It happens a lot. That's why I mentioned it and blind elk echoed the same thing less than a minute later. Very common.

Why?

Interesting, didn't know the nismo one did that. I still, as you mentioned, don't think it's ideal to put it back in the sump. I wouldn't do it on mine. The little extra time it takes to check the oil level during a fueling is more than worth the peace of mind I get knowing my oil is as clean as it can be. People spend all kinds of money on expensive oil for as much protection for their engine as possible. Why skimp on keeping a bottle to top it off every once in a while in the trunk (boot)

Well, if the injectors are ticking, that means they should be working. THat's the sound of them opening. You say the pump works. How did you verify? Do you have good pressure? Did you actually check to see if it's getting to the rail? Did you put the fuel lines going into the rail backwards?

Take the CAS off the front of the car, put the key in the "run" position and spin the nipple on the CAS. Can you here the injectors ticking?

Unless you get injectors that are so big they won't idle well, there is no difference except the ability to make more hp. I don't think 850's are at that level. People who say you will have crappy gas milage, poor idle, or stumbling problems if your "only shooting for 300rwk's" with a GT30 but think if you have a T88, you will magically have good idle and mpg with the same injectors are retarded. If 1000cc's idle well on a 1000hp car, they will idle the same on your car. Now as to whether or not the tomei/nismo injectors are a better name brand than sard, that's a whole different argument.

They sell their product because you buy their product. Simple as that. How many cranks have you seen that have actaully spun around the small crank collar? How many motors have you actaully seen that have grenaded themselves due to all the oil being stuck in the head? It's amazing how many problems that "must be fixed!!" pop up right after Tomei of HKS or somebody makes a "fix" for them. Great marketing on their part I must say. What is blow by? If air/vapor from the combustion chamber that gets blown past the rings and into the crank case. What's in that vapor? Well besides some carbon and other general nastyness you wouldln't want in your oil, there is unburnt FUEL. What happens when you mix oil and gasoline? The oil thins out and stops lubricating. If you have very little blow by, your not going to be getting a lot of stuff in the can, and you wouldn't need to add oil a lot, nor would a lot be going back into the sump, so it's pointless at best in the case of little to no blow bye. If you have a LOT of blow bye, your going to need to add oil more often, but also your going to have a whole bunch of nastyness from the combustion chamber getting condensed out of the vapor, and put back into the sump, making your oil even more dirty than it already gets due to the large amount of blow bye your getting. All of that contamination for what? You saving yourself the convienience of not having to check your oil as often? That's rediculous. My motor was in good shape about a year ago. Little to no blow by. I would have just a little oily residue in my catch can between oil changes. It was thin and reaked of fuel. I wouldn't have poored that into my oil cap to save my life. Now I have a lot of blow bye from a cracked head (don't ask). I have so much blow by I don't even run a catch can anymore. I just aim the pipe down under the car (please no environmentalist speaches). When it was still going into the can, I could almost fill it up over the course of time between oil changes. Again, black as tar, with the consistency of thick black gasoline. Poor all that into my oil cap? No thanks. I'll poor nice clean oil in thank you very much. Besides, checking my oil when I fill it up with fuel is a good excuse to show off the big single to everybody at the gas station Also, why do you think not one car comes with the plumbing routing blow by back into the sump from the factory? In summary................. (1) You are sacrificing your engine oil's vital ability to lubricate in order to save yourself the trouble of opening your hood as often. (2) They sell it because you buy it. Any more questions?

You recirc it back into the intake so it'll get burnt up for emissions compliance stuff, just like stock does, or you just vent it to atmosphere and it doesn't gum up your intercooler piping. DO NOT DUMP THAT BACK INTO YOUR SUMP. Please, somebody try to argue with me and say putting what comes out of your blow by catch can back into your oil sump is a good idea. I need some good entertainment.

Yeah, need more info. Which one will make more hp? Nitrous. I would take a full on port/polished head any day though for my appication.

Touche sir, touche

Not possible!! Your laggy, old tech, bush bearing, diesel turbo can't spool that well and make that kind of power!! It doesn't even cost $2000!! No way!! So, ummm, when do I get to say I told you so to all the nay sayers??? O yeah, and get that boost up into the mid 20's. You won't be sorry!!

O great, another thread with somebody being worried about how their blow off valve sounds

Putting the liquid that separates out of your blow by back into your sump is retarded. It will contaminate your oil, and all for what gain? Not having to add a couple extra drops of oil next time you check it? Dumb.

Sneaky looking

The regular 26 block and the 25 block are the same strength from what I've seen. Actually, the 25 block looks like it has a little more webbing on it to me. It's the guts of the 25 that make it weaker.

Glad to hear your happy with it so far. Did you remove the "silencer ring" from the intake? That really makes the sound bad ass when it spools. Sounds like a city bus going up a hill, but with a whole lot more wastegate and exhaust note I can't wait to see you put it on an aussie dyno and see what kind of spool time and hp figures you get. Also, keep in mind these turbos don't even come close to their efficiency range until over 25+psi, so if you impressed with the power now, wait until you crank it up.

Yeah, they aren't tiny for sure! That's not your HX35, right? You said you had a higher flowing model which is the 7 blade, right?

Maybe that's not it, but the little speaker is at your left knee, and they do come on skylines, just most people take them off before they even leave japan.

over 100 or 120 kph warning?

It's not hard to "refurb" the coils if you want to just give that a shot, and they do go out ALL the time. Pull the little rubber boot off the bottom, twist the spring out careully as not to bend it (not that it really matters unless you really bugger it up). The stick a dremel or something down in there to clean out the crude until you see shiny metal. Might want to hit the top of the spring with the stone too. After you get it all back together, put several coats of "flexane" or something similar like silicone sealant or liquid electrical tape on the outside of the coil to help stop it from arching.

Wow, that was quick. Front facing intake? Makes it a WHOLE lot easier. It's kinda hard to tell for me, but they look like series 1's to me. Pretty blurry pics though, and I've only seen series II a couple times before, so I'd wait on confirmation from somebody else. Have you though about trying to repair them? Their are several write ups, but the two main ways are a insulative coating and cleaning out the brass/aluminum contact under the boot/spring with a dremel or some sand paper or something. Try both

Instead of asking people to post up pics for you, how about you post up a pic of yours and we'll tell you what you have

A lot of the DSM guys reccomend porting the internal gate to almost match the size of the flapper, and radius the entry. I seem to remember somebody having trouble getting the boost to stay below 20psi on the internal gate, and after porting it would hold down to 10psi no problem. This is on a little 2.0L remember.

People say no high boost, vary the load, and no highway driving for 500 miles. I say don't worry about it. If anything is touching to wear in, it's already broken. Drive it like you stole it.

spammer asshole