daineisdabomb

Ive got a LHF door glass, LH 1/4 window and regulator to suit a r33 coupe. Can also fit if required. Give me a buzz if u need them. 0421 355 849.

Hey guys if anyone needs thier windows tinted or old tint taken off give me a buzz, quality work garenteed. Check out my fb page for pics and more info. Facebook.com/tintworksmorley or give me a call on 0421 355 849

hey guys if anyone needs thier cars tinted let me no as i own TINTWORKS MORLEY and i can get your cars lookin awsome in no time. i have all grades of tint and only use the best films with lifetime warranty. give me a call on 94718674. forum members get 10% off if u let me know ur on here. thanks guys.

hey guys i just converted my gfs r34 gt auto coupe to turbo manual using a rb25det neo engine and wiring loom, rb25det neo stagea ecu, r33 gearbox, r33 clutch pedal assy, r33 manual front part of the driveshaft (used the r34 gt rear part of the driveshaft where it bolts to diff) r33 lsd diff and axles, r33 gtst brakes. all when in sweet and the turbo loom plugged straight up to the dash so everything works (exept the speedo) which i will sort out later. im pretty sure the abs wont work now thou as the abs unit has different plugs than the GT, but i could probably put a gtt ABS control unit in. the check engine light is on for the throttle motor sensor (traction control) as i dont hav traction control but the car drives fine and has full power etc. there is one plug that i had to re-wire which is the plug that bolted onto the side of the intake manifold in the centre between the runners which connects the engine loom to the alternator loom as this plug is for the knock sensors and a few other things but the colour of the wires is the same just a different plug and an extra wire on the turbo wiring harness side for the oil temp sender. oh and had to use the non turbo engine mounts and engine mount brackets, and had to change to a turbo engine throttle cable. all in all pretty easy to do.

hey guys i just converted my gfs r34 gt auto coupe to turbo manual using a rb25det neo engine and wiring loom, rb25det neo stagea ecu, r33 gearbox, r33 clutch pedal assy, r33 manual front part of the driveshaft (used the r34 gt rear part of the driveshaft where it bolts to diff) r33 lsd diff and axles, r33 gtst brakes. all when in sweet and the turbo loom plugged straight up to the dash so everything works (exept the speedo) which i will sort out later. im pretty sure the abs wont work now thou as the abs unit has different plugs than the GT, but i could probably put a gtt ABS control unit in. the check engine light is on for the throttle motor sensor (traction control) as i dont hav traction control but the car drives fine and has full power etc. there is one plug that i had to re-wire which is the plug that bolted onto the side of the intake manifold in the centre between the runners which connects the engine loom to the alternator loom as this plug is for the knock sensors and a few other things but the colour of the wires is the same just a different plug and an extra wire on the turbo wiring harness side for the oil temp sender. oh and had to use the non turbo engine mounts and engine mount brackets, and had to change to a turbo engine throttle cable. all in all pretty easy to do.

Hey guys can anyone tell me where the wiring for the triple gauge connects up under the dash? Does it go to a plug near the ecu? Or straight down to near the stereo? Or near the instrument cluster? If someone knows or could have a look and tell me i would appretiate it.

can you make them with ball bearing cores? or just 360 thrust washers? also as the standard nissan turbos are ball bearing, is the oil supply sufficiant to provide enough oil for these bush bearing style turbos? and finally as bush bearing turbos are not really designed for high boost aplications, how does this affect the life of these turbos when run at high boost levels?

hey guys im doin a conversion from rb25de neo to rb25det neo on a r34. im using the rb25det neo harness and theres 2 plugs that are different than the rb25de loom. firstly in the engine bay, its the plug that attched to the drivers side of the intake manifold on the side pretty much right in the middle of the 6 intake pipes, it looks like it connects the engine loom to the alternator loom, the rb25de has 5 wires but the 25det has 6 wires and the plugs are slightly different. does anyone know what each wire is for? secondly in the car near the ecu theres a white plug with around 7 wires goin in i think (i dont hav it right in front of me). its directly to the left of the plug that goes to the dash, im thinkin it goes to the rear of the car coz i unplugged it and went for a drive (still has rb25de in it) and the speedo didnt work but everything else seemed to work fine although it does hav around 7 wires so something else may not work but didnt notice. i cant find pinouts for these plugs only the main ecu plug. does anyone know where i can get these pinouts or know what the wires are for n where they go. sorry havnt got any pics right now.

The manual says the usable range is 180-130psi. So looks like shes a bit low and may need a rebuild in the near future

Thats very low. Im pretty sure the manual says the usable range is 180-130psi. So u may need a rebuild or at least new rings

The brakes and suspension from the 33 went straight on no problem. I know the gearbox will go straight on, only thing im not sure about is the wiring harness, particularly where it goes into the car through the firewall. Im not sure if it will plug straight up to the dash. I may put a neo engine in if the wiring isnt plug and play

ive just picked up a S2 r33 gts-t wreck for a good price. i want to pull out the rb25de neo engine and auto box and replace it with all the stuff from the 33 (engine, box, driveshaft, diff, beaks etc) all the mechanic should be straight forward but will the r33 rb25det wiring harness plug into the r34 rb25de ex auto harness or will it need some modding? has anyone done it n can u give me any tips? only post if uve done it or helped someone do it thanks. i want everything to work as it should, speedo, tacho aircon etc.

How did u end up goin with the conversion? My gf has a 34 gt coupe in auto n was thinkin bout changin to rb26 n manual. Depends on cost and whats involved. Did the 26 bolt straight into the 25 mounts? And what did u hav to do with the wiring?

oh yea im in perth, w.a.

1998 white r34 GT coupe, Tiptronic auto, 160,000km, Lowered, alarm system, fat stereo with pioneer and alpine speakers, amp and sub, canon muffler, nice dark tint. this cars in excellent condition, drives really nice and is heaps better on juice than the turbo model (500-550kms per tank) and goes pretty good for non turbo too, the sound system cranks and has ipod connectivity etc. the cars always been looked after and serviced as per nissans tight service requirements. its perfect how it is and my girlfriend loves it and has never had any major dramas with it but time for somethin a bit more family friendly. Chasin around 10K ono which is a bargain really. if u want pics text me and ill send them to you as the files are too big to upload. 0421355849

my gf has a 34 coupe non turbo and im thinkin bout gettin some second hand parts to turbo it. just gonna run it on 5psi. Has anyone done it on here?? the plan is to source stock parts for as cheap as possible or some of them free (most of which u guys may just have lying around that u could donate to get them out of ur shed so u dont trip over them nemore the parts im planning on using are R33 turbo and manifold. R34 stock exhaust system R33 or 34 stock intercooler and piping R34 AFM R34 stock injectors R33 or R34 ECU (1998 model) (im not sure if i can use a 33 ecu, does anyone know if it will plug in n work? R34 oil/ water lines. the car is a 98 model with tiptronic auto (separate transmission ecu) so im guessing im gonna need either a 98 r34 ecu coz the 99 model auto ecu has the transmission ecu inbuilt or a manual ecu. but my brother has a 33 so may see if his ecu will work? also does anyone know whats involved with fitting the oil/water lines? is it pretty straight forward or do i need to tap into waterever water lines i can. and where can i pickup the oil feed from? and do i need to drill into the block for the oil drain line? if anyone has any of these parts lying around and wants to sell them to me or possibly give them away lol let me no.

its been a bit of a saga so far. the throttle position sensor was earthing out when the ambiant temp was hot which was triggering a/t mode. so i replaced that and it was ok for a while but its doin it again n the throttle position sensor if fine now so it has to be something else. the tcm still comes up with an error code for the turbine sensor although i hav replaced that sensor aswell. probably gonna get nissan to find the problem. they made the car so im sure they can figure out wats wrong with it. ive checked everything i possiblily can so either the tcm is screwed or theres a wiring fault. hav u checked what fault code its coming up with?

my gfs does the same thing. and its also intermittant. hers may drive fine for weeks and then it goes into a/t mode. have u run the gearbox diagnostic test and written down the fault code/codes? if so which codes have come up? urs sounds like an easy fix because it is happening so frequently. check the codes n see what it says. another thing if the throttle position senson stuffs up it triggers a/t mode which sounds like ur problem. to check it u need to check the correct pin on ur tcm/ecm with a volt meter and it should read .5 volt with throttle closed. if it reads 5v then its stuffed but u will need to check it as soon as the a/t light goes on. let us no how u go.

PROBLEM IS SOLVED!!!! I got hold of a r34 workshop manual. I checked all the voltages for all the sensors on the transmission control modual cold and then once again when it was hot. When cold all was fine but as soon as it got to operating temp the throttle position sensor was earthing out. The funny thing is it comes up with turbine sensor on the tcm and the ecu has no error code for the throttle position sensor so sometimes u just gotta test all the circuits instead of relying on the fault codes. I'm stoked it's fixed thou

Don't buy an auto. More problems than they are worth.

Don't buy an auto. More problems than they are worth.

Nah wasn't any metal on the end of the sensor. And I havnt really looked at the Speed sensor coz te code was for the turbine sensor. The speedo works fine thou and I'm not sure about the gearbox temp as I don't hav a gauge.

my gfs 34 gt gearbox keeps trippin the AT light n lockin into 3rd. its the same code (code 10, turbine sensor). so i went to nissan, ordered a new turbine sensor n put it in and same problem again. its not the sensor coz its brand new. the tricky thing with this problem is it only trips the AT light when the ambient temp is 30 degrees plus. has anyone had this problem??

hey guys i have a 98 R34 coupe with tiptronic auto. im having the usuall A/T light comin on n then being stuck in 3rd gear untill i switch the car off for a bit. the car has done 134,000km n has been doin it for about 4000kms off n on. i took the car to west coast automatics n had a new solenoid kit put in coz i was gettin error codes for the solenoids. they replaced shift solenoid a +b and the lock up solenoid n the line pressure solenoid as they came as a kit. 2 days later the A/T light came on and im stuck in 3rd again. this leads me to believe it either a fault with the auto ecu control unit, dodgy power supply or earth or the wiring. although it seems to b happening to alot of 98 model r34s with around the 140k mark so seems to be a wear issue or some sort. has anybony had this problem and actually pinpointed the cause and fixed the problem completely? i am going to check my earth leads and power supply leads and test the car then go from there and hopefully eliminate a few things off the list of possible causes.

spray contact cleaner on the filamint in the afm n blow on it with a compressor, not to hard thou. this usually improves fuel economy too. give that a go n c if it works. also it takes a few re starts of the car to reset the error codes in the ecu so maybe just reset it first to c if it goes away. if this doesnt work borrow an airflow meter off someone n see if it fixes the problem if not check the wiring. also buy a rb25 workshop manual on ebay. makes things way easier.