ScarifieR

dude give a **** 1 day your gonna be wrapped around a tree its u guys that give jap import drivers a bad name every1 says it all the cops know you i dont give if i drive like a ***** i got the car cause i like the car i didnt get it to have an ego and to drive it like an idiot u sound more like a commodore driver

yeah frosty im from bunbury aswell and he got his car out of the same bath gordon walker imported stock r32 auto's his had a wing and a zaust mines just pure stock the way it should be tho u the guy with the wingless r32?

ahha mike your car is the same as mine basically i drive mine NORMALLY i didnt buy a skyline to thrash it qtr mile it etc im gonna make it run good and keep the boost standard and just make it look decent im not into this "ooh ill drag u" shit id like my car to last and not be thrashed to the max and maurice i couldnt care less if ya could beat me hell a LOT of cars on the road could beat me i dont go on as my cars sumthin special i tell ppl its a STOCK SKYLINE all id have to do is spend a bit of $ like ewan did on a intercooler etc and id own u like he does but the fact of the matter is i am not interested i got the car cause i love skylines the end also the 20c remark was a JOKE and yeah iluvewan i know what ya mean by the rotor comment hes gotta add some cylinders and stop making it sound like a whipper snapper

haha ewan troy here how long till ya get it going ya better have lost ya license by payin tyhat fine now cause if u dont u wont be driving that car and iluvewan maurice isnt worth more than 20 cents dont u mean

ahah fu it all depends on how u wired ya dvc sub there is 2 ways wire it the other then try it on ya amp

yeah i know the page im asking for your opinion and reasons for gettin rid of it ill swap u a r33 standard for it ;p

ahahah i can see your a noob and its ok ok now most subs r 4 ohm's u can get dual 2 ohm subs and it all depends on how many subs your running to what ohm subs u get because all car stereo amps r 4 ohm and 2ohm when bridged a single DVC 4 ohm will give u 2 types of ohmage when wired different series/parallel i dont know whats called what but the combos u can get with a single dvc 4ohm is 2ohm or 8 ohm 2 dvc 4 ohms is 1 or 4 i think 2 dvc 2ohms is 2 or 8 single 2ohm is 1 or 4 i think now doing what u said getting a 2 chan amp then powered both sides its then basically getting a left and right signal and thats bad most 2 chan amps have a switch saying stereo or mono and if u were to use the 2 chan u'd put it mono for both channels but why when the amps channels will be both running at 4 ohm then bridging a 2 channel amp for 1 chan makes the amp go 2 ohm and then puting a dvc 4ohm sub on it would pull a .5 ohm load which would blow the amp or it would make it 4ohm that would half the power and basically make that bridging useless a 2 chan amp bridged with a dvc 2 ohm sub would be good cause u can get the 2ohm load then when wired properly but whoever told u this is full of shit lower ohms = more power my amp is sumthin like 150x1 at 12v 4 ohms or its 300x1 at 12v at 2 ohms bass isnt a left right signal the bass is the same in the left and the right i think but the monoblock processes all that its got a left right plugin from the subwoofer preout on your deck (if u got a triple preout deck) www.jlaudio.com go there and dl the fact sheets for the jl w3 it shows wiring and box specs just get any pdf on the product page of the w3 sub and it will show u wirings of dvc 2 4 and 6 ohm subs

ok well message me if it falls thru

how did u find this bov? i was thinking of getting a hybrid as a normal bov just chewed way too much juice for me

how would these go on standard r32 gtst struts?

hey just purchased 1 it looks pretty easy so far just wondering how hard it is to get to some wires now theres the 3 at ignition red = constant 12v green = ig1 blue = ig2 green and blue im unsure about another thing how hard is it to wire the o2 sensor and ground to the ecu? and the handbrake release wire to run the wires to these places is fine its just making sure its all fine is what im worrying about im a comp techy good at soldering and installed about 20+ car stereos before so i know its prolly not hard but its good to ask anyway thanks for inputerers

yeah i like the solo barics for the hard punch and the looks not too fond of the kicker splits tho and cereal what do u mean by how do i power it a monoblock is a single channel amp if u run subs u have a monoblock its as simple as that or either a big 2 channel but mono is better because then 2DVC 4ohm subs can run at 2 ohm its getting about 250-300wrms and is lovin it

i do mine every 3-6 months its 15 bucks for a filter ffs better than gettin ya injectors dirty as a hooker

go to nissan for all ya stuff they r suprisingly cheap for oil and oil filters the fuel filters a z384 or sumthing for my 32 its the same as the z200 but angled top nissan sells the proper oil for the skylines for 32 bucks its 7.5-30 semi synth 47% synth and the oil filter for 8 also sell plat sparies for 18 each (dunno bout the price of them)

here gos ill say how it was installed and what bits stage by stage deck is a rockford fosgate rfx8220 with triple preout front/rear/sub all custom thick neotech RCA's ran straight down the middle console to the boot mbquart DSD216 splits in the doors made brackets to hold the midbass and placed the tweeter on the plastic bit that hides the wires going to the side mirrors then covered it with cloth (cant see them basically) mbquart 2 ways in the rear where the factorys went but on top and the "active speaker" grill gone also all speakers had thick neotech cabling down each side of the car in the boot where the metal wall is from the back seats to the boot was taken out and a MDF cut to size board carpeted was placed in there and 2 kenwood amps mounted on it (749s 4x40rms and 1x250rms 719 monoblock) (12v 4 ohm) 4 guage cable ran from the battery thru a 60 amp fuse all the way to the back seat then split from a distro block to the 2 amps all wires came from the back seat and individually had there own hole to screw into the amp so its all nice and neat sub of choice is the JL audio W3 12" DVC in a 1cft round backed box that faces the rear of the car and fits nicely in the driver side corner with the thick neotech sub cable hidden to the terminals this all resulted in a bloody good sound i get around 125dB out of it and its very punchy up front splits r highpassed at 100 and 2ways at 130 sub low passed at 100 the things im gonna do is take a couple of rattles out in the back parcel shelf and in the doors and sheet sound deaden them its suprising that there isnt many rattles then once the cash cow comes ill get myself 2 rockford amps(a big 4 chan and a bd1000 monoblock and another JL audio sub (prolly sell mine and get 2x dvc 2 ohm subs cause u cant get 2ohm out of 2 dual 4 subs) and run individual boxeson each side then put the splits from the front in the rear and get some mbquart premiums there is no way id have any other brand than mbquart for my speakers and the raw power of rockford cant be beat and the quality of bass from the jl cant be beat either but it all depends what u listen to also i mite change the deck and if so it will be a eclipse u guys go check out an eclipse deck they r expensive but bring a cd that wont play in your cd deck cause of scratches and it will play flawless in a eclipse 600ish for a high volt eclipse with mp3 and triple rca preout and stop buying main stream brand name products if u want really good sound! (jvc pioneer clarion kenwood alpine (alpines amps high end splits subs and decks r ok tho) u get what u pay for also check me car out www.cardomain.com/id/rthirtytwogtst

theres an alpine tripe rca preout 4v with mp3 for like 500 bucks u cant get better than that dont even bother looking for anything else

im with CGU 3rd party only 170 a yr with a basic excess im 21 with no record also they wanted 2400 a yr for full insurance my cars a 93 R32 gtst auto

mm i sit at 2900rpm going 110-115 with overdrive on off prolly 4500+

well i just worked out i went to perth n back did 520k's cost me 50 to fill up there 49 to fill up when back that equaled out to 10.27k's a litre and i gave it a bit of curry in perth but not full on so beat that

the boing was because i had the spring wound up too hard and it wouldnt open properly

as i said i could feel it had more power cause my standard bov doesnt hold boost! it only sits at 5 or so never locks to 7 (on dash guage) but the after market 1 did thats the reason why i changed but the fuel economy just put me right off

yeah piss the vee port off go get a dual port turbosmart or a gfb hybrid thats what im gonna do have the best of both worlds

how do u put a new spring in it and get it fixed can ya do it yaself? and where do u get the parts for it

yeah my current bov must be leaking cause i could see it doesnt hold boost as much as the new 1 did

yeah right angle is the z387 ryco books see the r32 as a z200 repcos book sees it at z200 and z387 or the repco number rff-46 and its the z387 cause we need the right angle same filter different end basically