gotRICE?

The HKS for R33 is 95mm, but it tapers. It starts at 3inch from the cat, hits the little hotdog muffler and goes up to 3.5 inch, then after the flange for the cannon it steps up again to 3.75inch. Its the second exhaust i have owned thats done this. My old Mugen Twinloop exhaust on my ITR did the same thing. I have the HKS on mine still with a GT30. For the street is a little loud, so have built a replacement middle section with another muffler for the road. Heres the HKS Vs Apexi. Sorry the pic is a bit small, but you can kinda see the tapers, and that it is substantially larger than the apexi.

Lol! Knew it couldn't be far away. Good work.

No mines manual. And always has been.

Ill have a look on mine tomorrow for you and snap a picture I thought that was the temp sensor? So the ECU knows what the ECT is and adjusts fuelling etc accordingly. I wouldnt run without it untill a more in-the-know guru replies.

It clips onto the top drivers side of the factory plastic radiator shroud. But buggered if i know what youve done with the other end You might have accidentally poked it in infront of the new radiator. Undo the clamps and pull it forward and see if its in there somewhere.

Yeah there isnt a plug. Pain in the ass. As above, pull off a hose and give the pump power and pump away.

That kinda thing is important to add when people are talking about temps lol.

This is because the Link will have a temperature MAP lockout. Once it goes over 100'C it should throw a CEL to tell you. And anything over 100'C the MAP limit will more than likely be alot lower.

Its a snake thats living under the plenum. Send an Owl to Harry Potter and ask him to translate, he can speak Parseltongue. Have you tried increasing the revs a bit to see if it does it above idle? Change the hose on the FPR? Maybe post a video. Cars make all sorts of noises and people describe them differently so its hard to E-Mechanic it. But my stock injectors and my Nismo ones definitely dont hiss at all at idle.

Yep agree with that. Starts opening at 72/73C and fully open by 85. And also, VCT doesnt even start working till ECT is above 75C.

If i HAD to choose between the two, then id ho Autech S15. But if it wasnt a definite choice, i would definitely go for a Honda of the same era. Dont know what they cost over your way, but a DC2/5R would be quicker than both of them without much trouble. Billions of aftermarket/new parts for modding and maintenance. Or a H22a/K20a Euro Accord if you want something a bit bigger.

Lol iv never used gasket goo on any thermostat on any car ive ever owned. And just recently did the RB25. Never had a leak. So i guess in my case its easier ha. Bus seriously, unless you drain the block and all matter of gunk falls out with the coolant, just flush it as per normal. There wont be a much in there. I think some people are just far too pedantic about it. Its been mentioned before, Skylines arent some mystical creature that needs any extra special procedures for general maintenance As a precaution, just flush it without the radiator plumbed in so your shiny new rad doesnt get anything unwanted in it.

the thermostat is only three bolts ya lazy bugger If your good you can do it with out taking off any hoses lol.

This. Your headunit probly weighs more than the rear seat lower and upper half combined.

Looks awesome! Im really keen on learning how to do shit like this. Post up a video! Everyone loves a video!!

For a starters, i wouldnt use a ratchet. Use a strong arm, and slide a long piece of pipe over it. Leverage is key. Easiest would be to drive to a mechanic and ask them to rattle gun it loose for you. Then hand tighten it and do it when you get home.

This man speakith the truth! I just recently lost my key. But interestingly enough, a 20mm socket fit perfectly over my 19mm locknut and undid them without damaging anything. Hows that for security! Just replaced them with a set of Nutsac black nuts. Cheap, and work.

Take the coolant feed off the turbo?

Did you save the settinns? You need to key off to save settings. And are you 100% sure you have the correct wire fror throttlw position? Take this as an indication that your wasting your time with an SAFC.

Jesus Christ where do you get your pads and rotors from Dont think about the lag thing. Any turbo is laggy compared to a stocker lol. A normal GT3076 is hardly laggy on a 25. Mine sees 17psi in the 3300-3400 area most of the time. Its good

And what's the big deal? Function over form is fine if that's what your into. If your into sparkly look at me look at me chrome and stainless, then you wouldn't buy one of these, therefore having no reason to post negative comments.

Yeah, unless that comment was a praise, its completely unhelpful and useless posting that. If you have some criticism im sure Hybrid1310 would love to hear it. He has taken everything else anyone has said onboard. Stated multiple times that he wants to make what people want.

Its not a big turbo But not all turbos make loud noises. Just for some reason RB turbos make ridiculous suction noises with a pod. I guess its the shape of the wheels idk.

The JJR ones. But anyone that sells the same style. Probly comes from the same place. Nothing wrong with the one piece ones. I'd go for mild steel anyway. The stainless ruined my narrowband sensor thread, and bent all the bolts holding the thing to the turbine housing. This has made me not ever want another stainless steel anything near my turbo lol.

The original split dump pipes did jam the flapper. But as far as im aware they have been fiddled with and work fine. Havnt seen any complaints since the 1st batch. I had one. Biggest PITA ever. But im guessing mine was the 1st batch of them.