gotRICE?

ask hypergear, he might be able to shed some light. Looks a bit on the dodgy side though.

It kinda does sound like AFM damage, but i would have thought you'd need more than 10cm of water for it to get through the air filter. Highly unlikely its a wet plug too . I hose my engine bay off all the time with no drama lol

I'm the same. but I left the oil water cooler in. so if God forbid the oil got a couple of degrees colder than "optimum" the warmer warms it up. Oil still works when us cool. And it will never get so cold as to be bad. Not possible.

I suppose if you're comparing an 20 year old stock filter maybe. I did an Apexi pod vs an Apexi panel. Lets not forget that parts like split fire claim huge gains too.

Oh right, so he did. Still, stand by that statement though Have run back to back with stock aitbox/pod. zero difference. But back to the other thing i noticed.. raising the boost with an EBC and having a stock exhaust? Interesting way to do it dont you think?

At stock boost levels the pod filter wont raise the boost. It will be the exhaust doing all the work.

holy 5 years batman! Try that.

I soaked mine in petrol lol. So yeah you can clean them with whatever you want.

Im pretty confident you cant buy a bolt on dump pipe for the 3076/RB25 R33 combo. It shouldnt be hard for someone to make something up for you to fit it. And as far as im aware most of the garret 5bolt internal gate housings are the same? So the flange wont be hard to get either. It probly doesnt matter to you in Switzerland, but the Ford Falcon XR6 Turbo uses the same flange/gaskets. So Ford is an option. Thats where i got my gasket for my 3076 hehe.

As said. All about the tune Lithiums RB25 had 300kw with 17/18psi for over 100,000km. Longer than the car had standard power. So its definitely doable. They are pretty tough motors. Just be nice(ish) to them and have a safe tune.

VCT is definitely audible. When i first put my Link G4 in for some reason the standard setting in the link didnt have any ECT lockout set , so when the car was idling (and idling a bit derpy) the revs would fluctuate above and below the VCT engagement RPM, you could hear, and feel the solenoid clicking. Figured out this was half the reason the idle was such an asshole to setup lol.

My catch can is vented to atmo too up by the drivers headlight. I occasionally get oily smells in the cabin too. You could possibly have an exhaust leak at the turbo/manifold. I would assume with 400whp you have some sort of aftermarket tubro, or turbo/manifold setup. And as many people know the turbo bolts dont stay that tight for that long Unless of course you use those oval shaped lock bolt things. Check that first. Make sure they are all nipped up tight. Try find a stock bolt locking thingy to throw on if you can too. It helped with mine, but after about 5 months the nuts managed to push past them too

I still stand by the PlasticX or whatever its called. Had another crack at mine on saturday, but did it with an electric buff instead. Saved me lots of time and energy and turned out pretty decent. My lights arent in tip top shape, they have a bit of crazy cracking going on. hard to tell if its the inside or out. But once they have been polished up you dont notice it too much. Hoping its obvious that the drivers side is done and not the passengers And try to ignore the passengers indicator. LOL. It fell out under brakes and i run the bugger over. Was all that was left of it! Dam LED Repco light replacement.

Yeah i never had any drama fitting it as such. It fits fine without cutting the bracket at all. It was just where the circlip sat. Didnt allow the factory sock to point in the right direction, therefore holding the bracket up. And unfortunately for me the circlip snapped off when i took it back off lol. And the walbro sock went for a dive. Need to fish it out or get a new one and try the hose clamp trick. Although from memory there isnt really the space for a hoseclamp.

Did they change the walbro pumps? There wasnt a shit show of fitting the stock filter sock to mine when i put it in. Faced the wrong way and wouldnt let the pump sit down. Ended up breaking off the circlip tab too And apon my last pump inspection, the walbro sock is also gone. lol. Wonder how long ago it fell off...

I didnt go quite to the extreme as the OP. Mine just stopped working one day. No idea why. Pump relay and pump were both getting voltage, but nothing was working. All i did was disconnect the stock 12v feed to te relay, then take the 12v feed from the 4ws Motor and connected that up instead seeing as the 4ws isnt used. . Tadaaa. Perfect running now. Uses the stock relay and earths. One wire to change.

If your talking about those blue justjap adaptor things, then they are fine. I have used one on my old Track ITR with no issues, and so did my mate with a 317kw B18c Civic that was tracked regularly with no issues. No leaks or any drama.

This is terrible advice if it has the wrong dipstick in it you dipstick Trololol if you put in 4.5l then you will be fine. But if your worried, an extra 500mills wont hurt it at all. I run 5L through every time i do an oil change. And agreed with the last post, try borrow a mates one or someone elses if you go to a SAU meet or something

Buy some cheap oil and flush it through with that before re-filling with your day to day stuff? Poke a magnet up in there and grab it all? Although i think i just read the GTR sump is alloy?

Hmm. Im no RB20 expert but that rear wheel looks alot bigget than my old stock R33 rear wheel. (PS the compressor is the front wheel )

GT30!

I have an HKS Hi Power Silent too. Instead of chopping it up i just made a replaceable center section with a muffler. Goes between the decat and the tailpipe section. So when im on the street i use the quiet section, and when i want some roar i change it out for the HKS piece.

Yeah looks like an R32 turbo with R33 actuator. This is my old R33 Turbo (with R32 actuator )

Yeah! Like that! The one i was thinking about was a red R32, but same thing

I used the small VAC port on the back of the plenum on my RB25 with Link G4. Its the same size as the MAP sensor on the board so does make sence. Doesnt cause me any dramas. And im pretty sure link suggest to stay away from FPR and BOV lines. Just being cautious i suppose. Id rather it have its own vac supply personally. This way you just run it along the brake lines on the firewall and through the grommet under the ABS Easy done.