gotRICE?

I dont see why not. Its doing the same job regardless. Just seems like most BOV are as close to the TB as possible. I have seen a GTR with custom bov return. They just made a pretty stainless pipe up that went between the head and the radiator. Looked good. Cant seem to find the picture anywhere though

I just had this issue with my R33. Hard wire it to another 12v source. I used the 4ws lol. Seeing as im not using it. In my case it appears the circuit is dodgy. As my boost controller stopped working too. Fuel Pump, boost controller (wired to stock solenoid wiring) and stock narrowband were all only getting 11v. Not enough to make them work. I just re wired them all to different sources (bar the narrowband as its not in use) and all is fine again. Leave the earths as the are.

Did you check if there was any voltage leak in the coolant when you installed it? Grounding them can make it worse

Interesting. My link doesnt flash a warning when i hit the limiter. It does if you bash the MAP limit however Maybe its a setting. I think you should take a few more videos like that one. Do this: 2nd from 2000rpm 3rd from 2000rpm 4th from 2000rpm Quite keen to see the difference in real time recordings between the GT and the GTX I have a video quite similar to that one you just posted. Dont know if Lithium or myself have already posted it? (Normal GT30)

Myself and Lithium are in Wellington and are always keen for chit chat and lurking around the place in lol cars We have quite the collection in our group now. Might see me lurking around the CBD at times in my R33. Crappy picture but it makes me happy pants haha.

We also arent paying chinese wages. I cant imagine how much time would go into making one of those.

yeah exactly lol. You get what you pay for. And in this case, it seems like what you pay for isnt half bad considering.

Try Here http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=tp&Product_Code=ATP-WGT-009&Category_Code=WGT

Incar sounds with the full HKS Hi Power "Silent" + GT30.

I have the Blitz LM on mine. Didnt notice any decrease in throttle response or any increase in lag with the stock turbo. Putting 300rwkw through it now with no dramas. Keeps the intake temps very low. And removes temps very quick if it heats up in traffic etc. It will drop 20+ degrees in a matter of seconds. Even just giving the throttle a stab and holding the revs a bit higher at a standstill the temps plummet. On the track on a warm day the temps range from 25-35'C giving it full beans. On the road it, 18-25'C.

Im not even using the uber fancy XPR Racing oil . Just the regular 10w40.

There are a few companies that do an inline thingy for sensors. Like this one https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=1227 Or, you could just put another sandwich plate on top of it. Seen heaps of people do it with no issues. hehe

Thats three for Royal Purple. Daily driven, and dirven hard on the track. Pushing 300kw with GT30. No nanga nanga's yet.

I have a 52mm radiator in my R33 and it fits with the factory shroud and clutch fan, so you can definitely get away with that size too. Been running it for a month or so now with no issues. Agreed that Its perfectly normal to be into the 90's. Most modern cars run alot hotter than older ones anyway due to emissions so its not going to hurt. R34's run in the 90's stock. Thermostat starts opening at 84C i believe, fully open at 95. Whereas R33's open at 72C, fully open at 85C. My OEM Nissan thermostat used to have the car sit at around 84-85C cruising the streets and highways. I replaced it with a higher flowing unit as i was getting a tad hot on the track. The aftermarked thermostat opens slightly hotter than OEM, be it 3C i believe. And now cruises at about 88C. It cools far better than the stock one though. I actually see a temperature drop when i give it a bootful lol. 300rwkw,

They arent building it to last. If it blows up, the owner doesnt care. When it does, it will be rebuilt

Care to post a video of what that sounds like with the Type RS copy recirculated? I have a genuine Type RS on mine that i got cheap when they bought out the RZ. I got it because im the same, the stock one sounds shit lol. And because i dont recirculate mine, as running MAP ECU i dont need to. People choose exhausts based on what they sound like too, not JUST the benefit. So whats the difference.

Heres mine. Recorded it today. HKS Hi Power Silent with a custom road legal center muffler, GT3076R @ 17psi. Shame the Galaxy S2 mic cant quite handle the jandle.

GTR Bov's are in the drivers side bumper, they have a plastic tube that runs along the radiator support or somewhere around there. Mafia.. stop being such an asshole all the time.

Im surprized there hasnt been any replies to this! I love hearing other peoples exhausts Will post one up in the weekend!

Im going to give mine another crack this weekend. Got some new rubber shims and synthetic grease. Will give the spring thingy a bit of tension too, thats a great idea. I remember removing it for the first time and almost lost an arm if flew out so fast lol.

Nah, They are thin. I was surprised how thin mine was when i took it out too so dont worry about that.

Yeah sure ill get some pictures next time i use the car.. next day or so. Not alot to look at though lol, just a thick shiny radiator. If you'd mentioned you had the engine out earlier id have said do it :

The Link "plug in" ecu for Skylines isnt 100% plug in though hehe. Theres still a few wires that need attention, running the vac hose through the firewall, removing the intake pipe and installing IAT sensor etc. It all takes time obviously. They do come with startup maps however so that does save a shitload of time.

If your cooling system is working fine, then leave it. If your hoses arent leaking.. then leave them Its only worth it if its 100% necessary. And you will get 90% of replys telling you to stick to the stock clutch fan. Oh, and to answer part of the question, i just fitted a 52mm twin core Aluminium radiator to my R33 GTS25t. The stock fan and shroud still fit. Just had to trim 10mm off the bottom to clear a bolt sticking out down the bottom. Seems to be working great. I only upgraded as the stock radiator wasnt coping with 300rwkw on the track.

Yep 10psi will be the limit of the stock ecu generally. Even with a piggyback your barely going to get any gain at all. It will just pull timing and make you go backwards.