gotRICE?

Yeah that kinda thing would make me not want to support the locals either because clearly all they are doing is trying to make money by selling you an ECU. I guess it depends on how much you will save. Speak to the cuzzy's i say

Dont know anyone local that could buy it for you and ship it? I live 10 mins from Speedtech. Im pretty sure here you can buy direct from Link too.

Its easy! Tape the wire into a coat hanger. lie under the dash and have someone poke it through for you. It comes out somewhere behind the heater. Other than that you don't have any other easy option

Id recommend getting the extension harness while your at it A little cable that plugs into the board to give you a few extra's. Another 5v source, another ground and a couple inputs etc. If you were planning on running alot of boost, then getting a bigger MAP sensor will take up another input. And if the car is a street car, there aint many left for other stuff. Once you use the Boost solenoid input for boost control, the AFM input for IAT, and the narrowband input for Wideband.. You get the idea Great ECU. Been running the GTS/GTR Link G4 for a year or so now.

Thats the one im talking about Im assuming he has ABS, because if he did not im sure the question wouldnt have been asked as it is right in your face with no ABS over it

Its odd, these have been around for quite some time now yet there sees to be a vast lack of information on anyone thats used one.

There is a grommet under the ABS unit.

Lets see a MSPaing Jig! Share share!

Looks like a bung for a sensor? Pull it out and have a look

mods: R33 Series 2 RB25DET, Internally gated .82a/r GT3076R @ 17/18psi, Splitfire coilpacks, Nismo 555cc Injectors, Walbro 500hp fuel pump, Link G4 GTS/GTR ECU, Blitz LM FMIC, HKS Hi-Power Silent Exhaust, custom downpipe, 4inch intake, Simota 4inch pod fuel: Mobil Synergy 8000 power: 285rwkw on a dyno with a dodgy wideband. Maxxed out the injectors. Retuned to more sensible Duty's and felt quite a healthy increase of butt dyno power, yet to re-dyno so will update soon. useage: daily driven, and driven relatively hard. and regularly tracked oil: Royal Purple 10w40 with royal purple oil filters and Mocal 13row oil cooler. lifespan: Still going strong. No oil usage or dodgy sounds. failure: squeaky brakes comments: bought @ 47,000km stock, modded to 200rkw, tracked hard. Installed GT30 @ 80,000km, (87,000km now) still tracked hard. I guess its a good indication to Garrett's turbos too. Over 100,000km on two cars that arent driven like nanas ever.

That is correct i misread. Carry on PS:. braided lines or not, your cooler mounted like that looks awesome!

Nah i do agree. Was just saying Like i said, i want a grex plate. So that would mean my sensor would be on the block too hehe. But after all that about safety, and you use thread tape on an oil system? You must be nuts LOL! I emailed mocal direct when i built my oil cooler system, as id never done it before and they replied with capitals "NEVER USE THREAD TAPE ON AN OIL COOLER SYSTEM" lol. If you have high quality fittings, you will never need it. Mine hasnt leaked a drop.

But then you also can get quite a bit of heatsoak from the block transferring into sandwich plate. I want to change my MOCAL plate for a Grex one. The mocal doesnt have any ports for sensors

Im pissed off! So it seems like the slotted rotors are the way to go to fix my issues. I ruined a set or slotted rotors on the track in december, and while i was there, i swapped them out for a set of OEM rotors, and bed them in on the track. Bendix SRT pads still. All was well, car was stopping on a dime, but now im back into street driving my windscreen, and any glass in the surrounding area smashes into a million pieces with the noise the dam things make. It hurts my ears so bad lol. So im gussing im going to have to fork out for a new set of slotted rotors, and just change to OEM for the track. SUCH a pain in the ass.

There us a thread here somewhere of people talking oil thermostats. Mocal and earls do in line thermostats that you could incorporate. Can mount then anywhere you want. Or wherever your current lines allow. You will need extra fittings if course. Oh, and I don't run a thermostat in mine. Havnt for years. So its up to you. Do rb26 have the water oil coolers?

Niether does my RB25! Its wierd, maybe its just luck. Been to tons of trackdays in mine, and coming up to my 4th with the GT30. No oil issues whatsoever. Overheating yes... oil.. no lol. Stock Radiator cant handle the jandle.

So your saying that it gave you the same reading after you changed the thermostat, did a flush, new coolant and thermostat? If it did, then as mentioned it can only be one of two things, dodgy temp sensor or blocked radiator.

Is that your car sriver killer? Prob not the best place to post up vids of street racing if it is

Yeah i never meant it was too small as in the way the car drives, more like how the stock rb25 turbo is too small for that engine. A .82 on an RB30 is awesome for drags and lurking on the street but i feel like the .82 would get a bit warm if you wanted to race it at full noise all the time. That was a wicked launch. Hehe.

Wow that sucks. My GT30 makes 17psi earlier than that on a 25. lol

GT30 on an RB30 would be quite fun. It would probly spool like a stock rb25 turbo on an rb25, but make power hehe. Would the GT30 be a little on the small side though?

The only way you will make more power now is with bigger injectors, pump and retune on e85 if you wont upgrade the turbo. If your car is making that power, regardless if people say its a happy dyno, you will be maxing out the stock fuelpump and injectors, so adding an extra one wont help if the pump is alreay maxxed out. Seeing as you dont want to spend any money im not sure how your going to achieve this. Coilpacks will be $600+ for Splitfires, injectors dont come cheap, then the fuel pump.. then a retune. I say save your coins and upgrade it when you can afford it.

HEL ones here too on R33 GTS25t. No issues with them.

I found it was far cheaper to piece it together myself. If you can be bothered. Figure out where you want the core, and work out the fittings you need. That driftworks one looks good, but at 450pounds, its close to 1k delivered! Better off getting a car specific Jap branded one wouldnt you?

I got mine from here. http://www.racerpart...gory/Oil_System Good to deal with, although im not sure on their international shipping, as i bought it and had it delivered to a US address when i was there a couple years back and bought it back in check luggage My bag was opened 4 times on the way back. I guess a cooler core,8ft of braided hose, 4x fittings and the sandwich plate looked suspicious scattered through my bag They do a prettyer version of earls remote thermo that i was going to add at a later date, but never got round to it.