gotRICE?

Well how often do water thermostats fail? They probly have a similar lifespan, but being the oil thermostat is a complete unit inside a housing they arent as cheap to replace as a conventional water thermostat. I think the Mocal Sandwich plate thermostats are around $135 or so. And youd more than likely want to replace the washers for the fittings on the plate too. I run a Mocal plate on my car, non thermostat, but i only have a small 13 row cooler infront of the Radiator. I dont have any issues, but then again i dont have a oil temp gauge so i guess my point is invalid. lol. Im seriously considering one of those Earls ones linked earlier. They look the bizz. And the fact they have provisions for sensors is a win. The Mocal ones do not. If the oil thermostat fais my thoughts would be seeing as its probly closed 75% of its life, it will fail closed, so no harm done. And you will figure it out next track session when the oil temps go higher than normal.

As far as i was aware, thermostat sandwich plates and inline thermostats have a 10% flow to the oil cooler when they are shut anyway. Mocal ones do thats for sure. Or the oil would never move in the core and just sit and go yuck if you didnt track the car or do any sustained heavy driving.

Sweet. I was always under the impression that loading, and revving are a little different. But if thats all it means then its easy peasy haha.

Im just curious. How do you load up the engine to 70% with no boost?

The ones i hae done we pulled them with the box attatched. Much faster Just dont forget the clutch line But as suggested its the same as every other engine. Unplug plugs, un-do hoses. If its a stock turbo, then removing the turbo and dump pipe in one piece is highly recommended SO much easier than undoing and doing up those assf**k dump pipe bolts lol. It can be done.

Righto ill see if i can check it out in the weekend and report back.

I used to have my breathers vented to Atmo with the PCV blocked but after a while i was getting blowby and plumes of smoke out the exhaust at idle, and taking off, and backing off. I was advised to put the PCV back to stock, and have never seen another cloud of smoke since. The setup i have now is, Stock PCV, Breathers vented to Atmo VIA a catch can, and no turbo inlet pipe. As someone mentioned, i just dont think the turbo inlet has enough vacuum at idle to sufficiently draw the vapours out of the head, if it did then the PCV wouldnt be there factory.

I have one available to me that i could borrow for a few hours. Actually now i think of it, its one of those ones that can be used to tune V8/V6 with two sensors and inputs. I wonder if the cable would be long enough to put one in the tailpipe, and one in the dump pipe, Would that not prove if there was a difference? Same exhaust gasses being measured twice at different locations. Actually, 3 times. As i have my wideband permanently mounted in my de-cat and wired into the G4, and i have a spare bung in the dump for using dyno widebands. Could be an interesting result.. or a boring one. Ill see what i can do.

It doesnt matter. Its just flowing through it. Id probly put it in at the top, being pedantic and thinking that it might be easier on the oil pump lol. But either way, it will be at XPsi once its built pressure, so if its already running dont worry about it.

No, that isnt totally correct. You can have the stock turbo high flowed to make more power. So your turbo may LOOK stock, but the internals are far from it. AS mentioned the easiest way is to see if the compressor inlet has been bored out.

You can buy a tool to do it. I think its called a radiator comb or something like that. It wont look brand new i doubt, if its had a good whalloping over its life, but it will come close to it. And with a fresh lick of paint it will look decent.

Whats an HKS controller worth? Id sell it and buy the G4 solenoid. Its dirt cheap ($100NZDish) and works a charm! Closed loop boost control is fantastic. As mentione can take some setting up, but once it works its brilliant. I wired mine into the stock boost control solenoid loom in the bay, then just set the input. Done.Took 10 mins to install But of coruse, if its all up and running.. leave it be.

I watched this a few months back. And just by the way the cars were lined up it was pretty obvious what the outcome was going to be. Classic "V" formation. Looks pretty for the cameras. Like the do in Olympic swimming. lol

I use one of those walbro pumps in my R33. Stock wiring. GT30 running 17psi making 300rwkw and track the car regularly. No issues whatsoever. Have maxxed out 555cc Nismo injectors without a problem when the wideband on the dyno shit itself.

Haha. Ive never seen the point in a cold airbox if you have a decent intercooler. The turbo is going to superheat the air regardless of how many degrees the intake is at the filter. Be it a couple of degrees cooler.. Sitting in traffic isnt going to do shit. The air moves so slowly through the pipework, even if it came in at -10'C it would still be 50+'C after a little while idling. The second you give the engine some revs, and get the air moving the temps will plummet. airbox or not. Tried it a million times lol. Try this too, get on the freeway, cruise at 100km/h and throw it in neutral. Watch the intake temps rise just as much as they do in traffic. If i remember ill even post a video of this over the weekend.

Has anyone actually done any logging before and after temps with/without airboxes?

To be fair, for the extra $300 the Apexi N1 costs, you should have just got that. After buying pipe, a muffler, flanges, and getting it made, it would have been just as cheap?

There is plenty of room. I had an exhangeable section made up for mine. Its a HKS Hi-Power Silent, looks exactly like the JJR one you pictured. I made up a section between the cat and the flange on the cannon, for the road. Then switch it out for the HKS piece for the track/drags/lols. Heres the HKS Vs the Trust PEII And the section i made. (its straighter than it looks ) I just made it with a "multi" piece of pipework so i didnt have to buy another 1.8m piece of pipe so make it perfectly straight. Works fine, is quiet, roars up high, and still makes excellent power.

AS everyone has said, go bellmouth. I had one of those, and even after grinding out the inside of the split and getting the flap to move freely, it still boost spiked. People have got them to work, but they are an absolute PITA to get on and off. Only want to have to do it once!

But then again, Everyone also used to/or still do say that a .82AR housing on a GT3076R was ridiculously laggy on a stock rb25. I say its what you like, and what works for you is all that matters. Im over the moon with my setup (.82AR GT3076R Rb25) full boost, 17psi, anywhere between 3200-3400rpm.

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=e-Boost1+(2002-05)+-+Complete+User+Manual

Mines tuned for 17psi. Has been like that for a few months now, and had a good beating at the track where it was getting up to 1.4bar briefly too. Lithiums R33 was tuned for 17-18psi for over 100,000km, and not many of them were nana km either. Its all in the tune Rather than go be a KW queen, settle for a lower number with safer ignition if you cant afford/dont want to rebuild/replace.

Im having the exact same issues as KiwiRS4T. Before i figured out i couldnt start threads it was just the forum being small and in the middle. Mainly issues 1, 2, 4 and 6 as listed above. Other than that its fine and i can get around well anough and post what i want to, just a bit annoying being all small. Appreciate the effort too. I can understand how difficult it must be to run forums at times. So ill just carry on and wait till its resolved. No biggie. Thanks!

Is this an R31 thing? None of the cars i have ever owned can you see the water moving across the top tank. It just sit there and pulsates. lol

Id say the fuel pump would run out before the injectors. If your tune is conservative then you will be running very close to maxxing them out.. My stock turbo on 10psi with Walbro pump maxxed out the injectors easily when it was tune with a Link G4.