gotRICE?

Hmm, well JustJap website says its direct drop in and retains the stock shrouding... so maybe ask JJ what needs to be done, and if nothing, maybe its the wrong core?

You can barely see the low mount Especially a tiny little stock turbo haha. I had the stock shielding on my old stocker, but painted it up with some nice glossy black paint. Looked the part, and dont have to worry about the possibility of a fire if theres an oil leak onto the blanket. Not 100% sure on the fitment of them, as i was looking for one for my GT30, but i struggled to find one that would accommodate an internal wastegate. They all seem to have tiny rears on them for external setups If you get one, go quality. Theres nothing worse than chucking cheap flammable material on the turbo haha. "Cool Turbo Blankets" on Ebay have great reviews and a lifetime guarantee.

Are you talking about the OEM metal heat shield? Not entirely sure why its too hard to get on, its simple. Try harder

Your not about an r32 are you? It's odd my light was on for a year before I got around to removing the bulb after uniting the hicas and the steering feedback did bit change one but at low speeds.

I think its in your head. If you didnt remove the HICAS ecu, and only unplugged it then it wouldnt have changed anything in terms of low speed driving.

I got some blue synthetic stuff recently that doesnt burn off on the track. Has seen one intense day so far and has stopped the squeaking. For the life of me i cant remember the name of it but it comes in these ultra non-handy tiny packets. Ill grab one form the glovebox next time im in the car and post the name if you dont find anything.

I cant help you, but man those are pretty

Relax.

Wierd. Wish i'd tried that before doing all that work But then again, iv had my covers off countless times and havnt had the noise back. So maybe in my case it was the pulleys. Nice work.

That sound isnt the cam cover. Its the idler/tensioner pulley. I had the same noise and did a cambelt change and its been gone since.

Care to elaborate on the rpm and power figures your talking about? Mine seems to work just fine. And as for boost spikes, thats just poor tuning.

No you dont. You need a 10mm spacer and extended studs. I have a 3076 .82 on my RB25, with a Blttz Return flow. the turbine outlet pipe needs to be extended about 220mm. Heres a pic of my stock pipes modded to suit. (top pipe, you can see the extension welded on. If you trim about 40mm off the stock manifold heat shield you can get that to slot back on too. And dont listen to anyone that says a .82 is laggy on an RB25. They dont know what they are talking about. You will love it to bits. Enjoy

Mix in a little sand for a free port polish too

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Try JustJap, Ebay, Trademe.. wherever man. Everyone sells them.

Will 270cc injectors even be big enough for a stock turbo application? Mine maxxed out very quickly with the stock RB25 turbo. 100cc more obviously.

For the stock manifold I trimmed the stock shielding to clear the gt 30 housing and it works great. For the dump pipe I used fiberglass wrap from Repco. Itchy yes, just man up. But after wards under bonder temps were lower, and I can physically touch it after long drives so it does work.

They are in rwd all the time. Only 4wd when the rears slip. But yes removing the fuse will stop the fronts engaging. A friend run his r32 like this for years.

It isnt the sensor that was the problem with the :LC1's it was the control unit. I had my 1st one let go within a week. They replaced the unit straight away but didnt send a new sensor as it isnt an issue. Been great ever since.

Nah. Mine sounded like that for 1.5 years before i got the courage to change everything myself haha. It wont be cheap. The parts alone will be over $300 depending who you know. Then labour, probly 3-4 hours. it took me 6, going slow and taking my time as id never done a cambelt before.

Tyoull have to do a cambelt change. And replace the idler and tensioner. No other way around it really.

So does it do it just when you crank the engine? Or are you saying its a rattle at a certain RPM when its cold? If the engine was re-con'd then yeah it was most likely changed, but it seems fairly common for RB idler and tensioner pulleys to be noisy. Does it sound like this? (this was mine) Cambelt change fixed it.

^^ this. Post up a video of it.

In my R33, i have the core mounted infront of the radiator, and i used 8 feet of -10 line for mine.

Umm.. What car? And what horn? Best place to start is where the factory horn is located. Shouldnt need to go any further than that.