gotRICE?

I believe the G4 i bought was in the area of $1700 + $100 for an IAT Sensor. They are really great ECU's. For the price you have to pay for an PFC and a hand controller, IMO your far better off with a Link. And the local support is fantastic.

Who would know hahaha.. Integra Type R, Stock ecu no tuning.. similar spikng and all that rubbish.

Cancel that. Must be the way he has the dyno set. My car Stock Turbo vs Lithium GT30: (Better add that its 3rd gear for the stocker, and 4th for the GT30.. speed cut hehe.)

Yep thats me A G4 can be had for under $2000 And, i have a special someone that is pretty excitable when it comes to tuning new skylines. So if you do go down that path im sure he would be more than happy to have a play with it. Iv had the G4 in mine for the best part of a year now, and since the GT30 went on, it hasnt seen a dyno. How far along is your SAFC so far? i didnt notice the dates.

I just noticed your in Wellington. Me too. Anyway, i was going to avoid posting in your thread basically because as much as people are telling you to steer clear, you have your mind set. But just as one more bit of local advice, i had an SAFC2 in my R33 too. I had mine Dyno tuned, AND road tuned. Basically, as someone stated earlier, all your doing is trimming fuel and the ecu will trim ignition to compensate. Its a lose lose situation, as in the end you might make more power, but you'll end up running dangerously lean. With my car, on most occasions the car would get one decent run in, and then it was almost like the ECU would freak out and pull timing everywhere untill the next re-start. Andre had mine on the dyno after i had mine Dyno tuned elsewhere, and it was running "Lean for an N/A" as he stated it. Not to mention when the weather warmed up again, it started to detonate like f**king crazy in the higher RPM area. So i ripped it out and threw it away. If you go down the path, post up your results anyway. Ill post mine here for you to show how little it did for the danger it caused. So it def helped a little bit, but id say 80% of that was due to timing change. Good luck.

Wicked. Can pick em up in NZ for $99NZD

Im not poking shit or anything, but why would this be a good thing? lol. My 255 Adrenalines will hold 300wkw in 2nd. (GT3076 @ 17PSI)

Yeah i know haha. Diagnosed why it happened. The night after installing the turbo, and before initial fire up we hit the Rum hard.. next morning was fuelled by V and butter chicken pies. Too much concentrating on making sure the full load stuff was sotred out hahaha. Lesson learned.

R32's have a 10psi actuator. Its a classic R33 mod, as the 33's only have a 5?psi actuator ad bleed off 2psi.

A Herp a derp derp hurr?

Awesome, thanks alot guys. Something that was clearly missed. Probably just overlooked it. Have only played around a little bit with light load since the new turbo. Dont run a cat. So no issues there. I guess this could also explain the cannon ball like explosions coming out the tailpipe when i do give it a squirt.

Ah yes, my bad. ECu is a Link G4, and the ignition numbers are pretty conservative. Its only been road tuned so havnt dialed much into it at all. In the 60-80kpa area where it sits during cruise at that speeds, the timing is around 19.1degrees @ 60kpa and 17.7@80kpa

As the title states, i have noticed lately that after cruising at normal speeds the manifold and the 10mm spacer are glowing orange. I know that this happens regularly under under harsh conditions, but i would have thought cruise at motorway speeds wouldnt make it happen. Its an RB25DET in an R33, GT3076R on stock manifold, and the weekend just gone i re-installed the factory heat shield, trimmed to clear the compressor housing. And it was after this i noticed it. Its not something you see during the day, just at night. Does it happen to anyone else? The tune is spot on. Cruises at 14.7 or there abouts. Anyway have included a picture. Sorry its crap, my camera is atrocious It was taken on "Night Shot" hence being bright, but in reality its pretty dark in there haha. But you can see that its only the spacer and the collector area of the manifold. This was after a 20min cruise @ 100km/h. No boost. (maybe 1-2psi here and there moving off from lights) Im guessing its not too much of a concern as the turbo itself isnt glowing at all. Possibly its a different kind of steel used for the spacer? Any thoughts and opinions is appreciated.

Yep thats what im saying I can do that with my Link G4. Quite a nifty little feature.

Yep thats what im saying I can do that with my Link G4. Quite a nifty little feature.

I love my LC1. Works great, and piece of cake to re calibrate. I quite like the re-calibration feature. Do it every time the car gets an inspection. The only issue being they have a high failure rate. From what i can gather from the interweebs they changed their manufacturer at some point and there were a few dodgy batches around. I got one that failed withing a week. But they replaced everything at their cost incl shipping. So thats good, and its been perfect ever since.

^ Plus you could also wire it into your ECU if it allows it and set up closed loop, and target AFR

If you want quality, AFAIK youll need to spend most of that on the manifold alone. And if your goal is only around the 300rwkw mark, dont bother with externally gated. And stick to the stock manifold. Will save you a shit ton of money.

Its normal. Your injectors are switched off under decel.

Yeah i agree. And part of that could have just been that initial run. Seems to me like cars always make more power on the 2nd run. haha.

Interested to know too. I did a back to back run in my R33 with the stock turbo, and there was a 1rwkw difference between them. And that was just the peak. Other than that, they were identical.

I guess thats up to you, and the laws that govern it in your area. If you like the pod, then keep it. If you want to go for the more stealthy look, then go back to the stock airbox

We are. I didnt scroll back to the top of a month old thread and just assumed. Apexi and Simota both make Drop in panel filters too. Was just adding 2c.

AS far as im aware, it should flow through the cooler constantly, but only at around 10% flow.

Thats because the HKS have pretty much Zero filtration but make good power. And its all about the POWARRRR!! If your running an AFM, personally i wouldnt use a K&N. I think they are overpriced too. 1st choice for me is Apexi, but seeing as the dont have anything with a 4inch intake i went for a Simota. I like my dry filters.