gotRICE?

As above. I found it far easier to unbolt the drain from the bottom of the turbo when re-fitting the pipe too. Its two 12mm bolts. Its a pretty tight setup, and not much leway for jiggling the rubber back over the drain.

Maybe put up a WTB? There must be a zillion people runnung without them I had mine jammed under the exhaust shield for 3 years lol. Untill i unplugged it from under the seat and removed it for a wideband to use the grommet. If i knew where mine was id fire it over to you. I tend to be a bit hap hazzard with useless parts like that though.

I have an Innovate LC1 in my R33 too. The 1st one died.. but they replaced the unit within 24hours and now its brilliant. I also read a few diff forums of people having the same problem with new LC1's. Just dying randomly or not working at all. I wonder if they had a dodgy batch of units at some stage? It must hurt there reputation alot. Most of the guys i know use the Innovate LM2's with no issues.

Agree with above. The wider it is, the more likely you are to aquaplane. Best way to avoid it, is dont drive into puddles Or, drive slow. Drive to the conditions kids!

I also believe it helps keep the IAT at a relatively consistent temperature for the stock ECU. The ECU is assuming the air is around X temp and will fuel and time for it. (seeing as RB25's dont have stock IAT if you dont include the AFM) From what i have seen anyway.

In that case then i dont see why not.

Has the car had any rear end damage that you know of? Its possible that the seams under the bumper are split. In my old ITR i had the same problem, re sealed the tail lights, radio anteana.. no luck.. untill i got in the boot at night with a torch and got someone to hose the car down. I only saw the leak because the water was reflecting the light lol. And it turns out it was one of the seams in the body where they use that seam sealer gunk was split. Water run down the guard, in behind the bumper and through the seam. Leaks are a PITA to find. Mine was so bad that the whole bootwell filled up, and run under the backseat :s

Realistically how often do heater hoses fail? Seems pretty pointless to me. I know of an R33 that had heater hose used to feed a GT3076 for 100,000km. It was still as new when the turbo came off.

Get the Blitz Definitely! Great fit, and nowdays are a pretty good price new. The only thing i didnt like is they were a little stingy with there joiners. BARELY bridged the gaps between the piping and the core haha. But it still works and seals

Iv always wondered if you welded a little piece of steel into a stock 20/25 manifold where each set of 3 runners meet you could have a basic twin scroll setup for sweet FA money.. anyone tried that?

Holy 2009 Batman!

If its as far advanced as you say it is, then retarding it back wont hurt you in any way. It might feel down on power perhaps, or it might even pick up a little. But using a timing light to get it spot on would be better.

Its possible. Mine was pinging like crazy when the weather got warm. It had been SAFC tuned by a no longer trusted tuner, and he advanced it 4 degrees. So i reset mine and bought a G4. lol Set it back to the middle def.

This is the best advice. Im not 100% sure on what Aussie cops are like, but the Kiwi cops generally arent out to get you. They only pull up modded cars because of the reputation "some" give them. And im glad for it. Some of those cocks need to be fined to death. Once your friendly and co-operative, they soon realize your not a complete hoon and let you on your way. Im yet to have a cop want to open the bonnet. And if he did, he more than likely wouldnt notice the GT30. All my Intercooler piping is stock, and my intake piping is painted the same black as the IC pipes Lurky Lurky!

Upgrade when the factory stuff isnt performing properly. The stock radiator if in good condition will cope with the track work with the stock Turbo setup, and it will cope perfectly for drag racing. Your only on the throttle for up to 14 seconds:) . I track mine alot, and everything is fine, with the stock radiator. I did throw an oil cooler in mind you, because i was in the USA and pieced it together there. Worked out very cheap. I have upgraded to a GT30 recently, so will be keeping a close watch on temps next time to see how they look.

You may have done this, but id recommend putting a piece of that plastic loom covering stuff over the lines where they pass here. That braided stuff is actually piss weak in terms of wear, and with movement of the engineetc, it will eat through that line in no time! I pretty much have mine covered from just after the core to just before the block. Just where you can see the pretty lines it isnt And in a GTR, you cant see squat under the manifold anyway haha.

^^ That was a joke wasnt it? He said he doesnt want to have his sexuality questioned haha Id go for the Civic/Integra. Dam cheap to run, and dont go tooooo bad considering. That, and parts are a dime a dozen. VTEC! Dont insult it by spelling it like Ford.

If you have a new metal gasket then it will be fine. Iv always re used the old one and never had a problem.

Oh right.... because everyone with squeaky brakes is going to do that.. lol. Its just a 4pot issue. Evos do it, DC5R's do it.. If you go to that extreme then yeah i spose there is a step by step. But 99% of people wont.

You dont need a FPR. The stock one is fine Unless your doing something ridiculous power wise. I actually took two RB25 fuel rails and injectors off on saturday. Undo the fuel lines, Take the throttle body off, undo all the injector plugs (squeeze them, the bit you squeeze is on the bottom annoyingly enough) squeeze hard as f**k, and it will "click". And slide off. Then undo the three bolts holding the rail down. The bolt around the 5/6 intake runner is easier accessed if you unbolt the idle control. Then you can poke a long extension through and undo it no drama Once thats done, lift the whole rail up, and the injectors will pop out. Watch the injector seals. Id recommended grabbing all 6 and taking them out, if you bump them, they can also disloge and fall into the abyss of tool/bolt swallowingness.. And of course, the pre-mentioned spacers. Then proceed to gently pull the whole rail out towards the radiator. Good luck!

Unfortunately there isnt really a step by step on stopping it. Seems to me that after trolling through millions of posts regarding Skyline brake squeal, it comes down to trying everything your willing to pay for untill you find something that works. I did it, and for me what stopped the squeal completely, was Slotted rotors, and Ferodo Formula DS2000(?) pads. No shims, no squeak gunk. I have recently changed the Ferodods to some Bendix SRT, and they are still silent

Nah you dont need to remove the plenum. Have just recently done it. Remove the throttle body is as far as you need to go. Splitting the manifold is actually harder than it sounds. Everything is reachable. But when you undo the bolts for the rail, watch out for the black plastic spacers. They are tricky to find if the fall haha

AFAIk a fuel filter is a fuel filter. The only difference being the shape of it based on how OEM decided to mount it, and the connections. The nissan ones seem to just have a rubber hose banged over each end with a clamp, whereas Honda ones have a big banjo bolt. So if you want a different fuel filter it isnt going to hurt, you just have to figure out how to mount it and have appropriate fittings.

Ahh i see, hence why they dont supply piping kits. My bad, ignore me.

If you buy the Blitz intercooler specified for GTR it doesnt come with any piping AFAIK. The blitz intercoolers seem to work pretty well.