gotRICE?

At 100km/h in a stock RB25 it will make boost in 5th gear with 1cm of throttle. lol

^ 2nd'd

. Derp never mind.

I like the Fire

Im not sure what the issue with 6x9's is either. When i had them in the parcel shelf of my ITR they sounded fantastic. Possibly because i did a good job installing them properly. They sound like ass, and i knew they would, in the 33 because they dont fit. But it was a remedy to have sound, rather than broken speakers.

6x9's wont fit unless you use a spacer type thing. I only have 6x9s in mine because i had them. So got some black plastic spacers to lift them enough to fit. Easiest option however is 6.5inches. They just dont have much nuts to them.

Yeah they are a bit. But not overly horrible IMO. I have it on my R33 GTSt

Agreed. It was a simple question with a simple answer. if you dont like flutter, then f**k off and dont post. Noone cares what you have to say. So anyway, back OT, im guessing there will be a little locking nut you need to undo, then wind the screw in a few turns, and re lock the nut. Just try it on different settings untill you find a sound you like. I have a Greddy Type RS and did the same. I didnt want flutter, but having it really loose sounded poop, so i tightened it up a touch. I get flutter at very low load/boost and light VAC, but once the boost is up a few psi it opens properly. I dont see it causing any harm. Has been like it for a year or so now.

Only if you tighten it too much.. I think you will find that true compressor surge is actually when the engine cant swallow the boost the turbo is throwing at it. It will frighten you...

I think you'd struggle to build a 3 or 3.5" stainless steel catback exhaust system with mufflers included for less than what you can buy a Japanese branded system for wouldnt you? My HKS Hi Power Silent only cost me $900 from Nengun shipped to NZ brand new. I think thats pretty darn reasonable. EDIT, i just checked my order, and it was actually $835 Shipped. And your Aussie dollar is f**king ridiculous at the moment! Spend spend spend!

x2 If you want flutter with the bov, wind the screw on the bov IN. It will tighten it and make it not open as easily.

Those are two very different things there.. lol I suspect that a blown turbo wont cause an idle hunt. It hasnt introduced any sort of air leak, it just wont boost anymore/much.

Not bad! Me being anal, ill probly hide the amp away somewhere. Question, if you spun the sub around, does it clear the HICAS etc ECU's under there? I use my boot more often than not so flush mounted would be more ideal for me. Once its carpeted itl look nice

Start small. Bleed the system, maybe flush it, new radiator cap... Then start thinking about possibly getting the radiator removed and checked for blockages? Then.. well you know the rest.. waterpump.. etc etc.

Yes

Not stock ones. If its been modded, yes, or aftermarket, yes. But not stock.

See i thought this too, but i got my ass flames for suggesting it in a different thread about VCT. Lith tuned mine both on and off, theres quite a remarkable difference in the 1500-4500rpm range. It takes more time, but if you want the tune perfect, its definitely worth it. I believe mine is set to 1400rpm, 70'C water temp ON, 4900rpm OFF

Widebands are great for road tuning. I dont know if you had yours rad tuned as well as dyno tuned, but obviously you cannot simulate road conditions on a dyno. I have an LC1 permanently installed in my R33, and myself and Lithium have spent hours perfecting the tune, in conjunction with a knock sensor, on the road after it was dyno tuned. Youd be surprized how many zones the dyno cant touch compared to real world conditions. Makes the car so much more enjoyable to drive when the AFRs and timing are spot on in all conditions, I noticed the PFC doesnt support it, witch is quite poo, but mine is wired directly into my Link G4, and you can also set it up to target an AFR at set KPA's. So it will self learn and adjusts the map as it needs to for uber economy. Then when you go outside the set KPA it will revert back to the set fuel and ignition maps. Quite clever. And so far its proving quite good I think our next step is to have a play with throttle position tuning rather than KPA. The stock turbo breaches the KPA we have set (based on being sensible) with the slightest touch. So it is less economical than it should/could be if it had a larger turbo that took more throttle to breach the set KPA.

Check your junkmail. I had the same problems, and it was sending SAU to the trash. It was odd, because it never used to do it. I just randomly stopped getting emails, took me weeks to figure that out. Make a rule for your inbox to not let them be trashed.

Yep. The splitfires have the same part number for Nissan - Skyline - ER34/EN34 - RB25DE(T), so one would assume they are compatible

Anyone you know that might be interested? I know someone that has some 555's "lying around"

Although i swapped my HKS onto an R33 with a GT3076R and it soundes pretty much the same as stock untill the wastegate opened. Then it sounded like the world was going to implode with awesomeness. hahaha

x2. Just do it tight. Then give it a tweak to be sure. haha

This is VERY true. Myself and a friend had an HKS Hi power silent on our identical modded R33's, they sounded a touch different because of different dump pipes, and then he stuck an HKS bolt on turbo kit, and personally i liked the sound better on the stock turbo.

x2 ^ I went the 34 route. It was "ok". Unless you can get the funnel thing and have the air ramming through it with no leaks, they will heatsoak just driving around. I found that even cruising along at 100k, and a little city driving i could stop and burn myself on both sides of the intercooler. lol. And for reference, heres the difference. From memory the R34 is 70-75mm. In that area.