gotRICE?

Hey dude. Glad your a happy camper! Did you notice any boost spiking with the split pipe? The best thing you could probly to without going FULL ECU (Power FC etc) Would be an SAFC2 piggyback. I have just put one in my R33 and am awaiting a tune. Will tidy up the AFRs and give you a little more midrange and top end. If you want to run a safe 10Psi all day every day, go out and grab yourself an R32 GTSt Actuator. they have a 10Psi spring in them. So you can do away with the stock R33 boost solenoid alltogether. I have done it, and so have alot op people. Works very well!

It doesnt "help". The smaller gap conpensates for a weaker coil.

What if its broken? I bought the can from RIPS in NZ, and they have alot of huge powered Skylines, i think a 1100HP Street legal R34 too. So i trust their methods

I noticed this with my R33.. never thought anything of it, but have recently installed a catch can (blocked PCV and breathers vented to can) I cant say i recall smelling it anymore! Maybe mine was broken too.

Another way to do it that works perfectly is with a product called "Inseal" Made by the Sellotape company. Rubber strip sealant that is sticky on one side.. just like sellotape! Wow! This way you can remove the tail lights, IF need be without stabbing yourself and bashing them with wood. On my old ITR, but would work on the 33 too. Very tidy and NO mess. Just make sure its joined at the bottom For obvious reasons. Never had another drop after this method.

I know

Is there a reason why you want to run a switch? R32 Actuator is your friend Get rid of the solenoid all together and use your right foot hehe.

Ok, so i figured it out tonight after a little more internet research... If anyone was interested... The master reset was the obvious solution, that i DID do before setting the Skyline up. But what i failed to do, and was an easy mistake to make is turn the key off. When you reset them to factory APEXi settings, you have to turn the key off to save that setting. Then continue on setting it up to the current vehicle. (then key off again to save THAT setting) I didnt key off. Set it up as per Skyline instructions. But of course, it was still "set" to the previous car. FAIL! But resolved Happy

probly should have asked before ordering!

Actually, the freezing shut thing is correct, but not the main reason. If your on the open road in low temps, at a consistent throttle, the icy cold air will form ice crystals around the TB therefore it sticks OPEN. Not the nicest feeling coming into a corner

Im SURE there was a thread about the TB bypass like 2 days ago. Ive done it to my R33. Its not needed for AUS, NZ conditions as it doesnt get cold enough really. Have done it on all my Hondas too. All G!

Nothing? Im impressed! SAU stumped! ha

Hey again, Just installed an SAFC2 on my R33. Everything works, as in i didnt wire it up wrong... Car starts and runs so all sweet, all the sensors and everything are good. One problem, I thought i reset it to factory before i started the car, then did the pre-start setup etc to configure it. When the cars cold, if you lightly touch the throttle it misses, but then its fine.. weird. And then when it starts to warm up (have to warm it up to get correct knock wire) the idle fluctuates as if theres a vac leak, but not quite as drematic.Just a quick blip blip blip. Didnt let the car warm up completely as i didnt like the sound it was making. I put the AFM wire back to stock and it runs mint again. No idle "blip" and no missing. Do you think because it was set up an a different type of car there could be something messing with the AFM signal? Would it go away with a re-tune to the current engine? OR, is the SAFC2 stuffed? If anyone has had a little problem like this your advice would be appreciated. I have my fingers crossed that the tune will sort it out. But untill then im leaving the AFM wired up stock for safetys sake Thanks!

You will probly need to shock it. If you cant get hold of a rattle gun, put a socket and breaker bar on it, get someone to put weight on it and tap the prybar with a 5lbs Lump hammer. Not much else you can do. Or, drive the car to a workshop, get them to rattle it loose, then just tighten it up to drive home. Piece of cake.

Mine whistled on x4 speed when i 1st got it, (R33) then there was a pop and something shot out the vent and it was gone. But it has recently started doing it again, and its starting to piss me off too Might take the front covers off and ram a compressor gun down there and see if anything dislodges. You could always try that too. Maybe stick a vacume hose down there and jiggle it round. Might just be a leaf.. one of those ones you used to use as a whistle when you were a kid ROFL

Yeah these really do not like the heat cycling on a street car. If it was proper grade stainless it might work fine. And the weld at the collector seems to let go and burn the bonnet

Zat iz noot ze Continuum Transfunctioner, eets a very mysterious and powerful device and eets mystery is only exceeded by eets power.

wewt. I heart you Dan. Will get in touch with him. Although 4-6weeks shipping? Maff

Extention pipes.. no wonder i never found then on Nengun! But @ $511.. flag that. Its over half of what i paid for my full HKS High Power Silent from them! Economy FTL.

So i might as well just get one made? Dont want to sell the HKS front pipe, as the good stuff doesnt sell here. Everyone in NZ wants the good shit for the cheap shit price. The reason i want mild steel is because i have already had a JJR stainless split front/dump combo. Had nothing but trouble with boost spiking even after modding so the wastegate flapper opens properly. And apon removal, the stainless stripped my 02 sensor thread and it took 4 hours to remove from the turbo with a gas torch. Not willing to try the stainless route again unless it is a high quality item and not cheap stainless. What is regarded as good quality stainless? Im not sure what the numbers and grades mean. Id get one if i could scource a genuine HKS dump pipe. How can you tell if it is actually genuine? And who stocks them? Struggling! Thanks dude, just looked at their website and they dont look bad. Any problems with boost spike on the stock turbo? I dont want to go down that route again! Thanks for the replies guys.

Nissan?

Hey guys, was wondering if someone could shed some light. What are the options for MILD STEEL dump pipes only? I cant seem to find anything at all. For stock turbo might i add. Currently have the stock dump pipe bolted to a 3" HKS front pipe. So im not after a front/dump combo. Will i be better off having something custom made? Im about to get it tuned, and according to the SAU gurus, theres alot to be gained over the stock restrictive dump pipe so wanted to get it done before the AFR tidy up with SAFC2. Thanks alot.

Only pics i have. I didnt bother putting a new hose in. Just got a joiner. Looks tidyer in person!

Whats Royal Purple like in comparison to 300v?

Considering the Tune was done by Andre @ Speedtech, who has many many sub 10 second drag cars under his belt, im sure the tune was just fine.