gotRICE?

It would be ideal, i dont know if anyone has ever done it before. I do wonder, as i have only heard a few good responses, to the 100's of negative. Have had the pipe too long to get a refund lol.

You know i did wonder this, the pressure from the dump pipe would be insane. I also read it somewhere too. I might end up modding the JJR one further if it will work out cheaper than getting another one. that, or stock. skyguy61, kinda doesnt really matter, as the JJR ones are the ones that people are having issues with creep. I will get onto the R32 actuator and get rid of the stock solenoid all together. Sounds like the best bet. And if i had a boost controller, i dont need to hide it. NZ Government doesnt f**k us up the ass yet for mods (yet). WE get away with no cat, ext bovs, pod + FMIC etc. Just no screamers. But so long as you dont open them up going past cops it doesnt really matter either. Thanks for all the replys. Will keep checking back incase there are other inputs. EDIT: Ultimate GTR.. might want to update your sig.. whats a HONDIA? Had One Never Do Again... Try that if you want to flack the "H" haha

Is the whole 6 clicks thing a Nissan recommendation or just a forum thing? I got my R33 with fairly low km (48,000) and at 58,000 now, my handbrake is tight on the 4th, bites on the 2nd, and generally holds on steep hills on the 3rd! Is that a low km thing or adjusted different? As i have checked the clearance and it certainly doesnt rub when the handbrake is off.

Any ideas on how to do it with a Stock pipe route setup? I cant fingure it out/

Easiest way to find a hairline leak is to take the car to a mechanic and get them to put there pressure tester on there. I did it on my van when it was randomly over heating. I think they pumped about 14psi into it, soon see where the leak is.

I did a little research vis SAU Search, as i am supposed to , but didnt quite find out exactly what i wanted to know. I have been having a few little problems with boost creep. For reference: R33 GTSt, 58,000km HKS High Power Silent CatBack De-Cat pipe JJR Split Dump/front Blitz LM FMIC Apex'i Power Intake pod filter, I had the same issues as everyone else did with the split design JJR rubbish, causing the wastegate to catch on the inside. And i had that rectified so that was good. I noticed straight away it seemed to be better, as on the racetrack the boost was only creeping very high in the RPM range to around .8bar (12ish psi?), but dropping back quickly, and only in 3rd/4th full throttle. Wasnt to concerned with it as it was only hitting 12psi briefly. Lately i have noticed a little more creeping. The other night i was hitting 1.0bar in 2nd/3rd/4th in the high RPM area. Not good. Im going to try the R32 Actuator and see how it goes, and if it still creeps like it has been recently, im going to go back to OEM Dump/Front. If it fixes it, im taking to the JJR one with a sledge, or selling it to someone else to have the probem with 1) After installing an R32 Actuator onto an R33 RB25, you DO need to disconnect, and remove the Stock Solenoid, correct? And just replace the vac line where the solenoid would have been. I was only ever wating to run 10psi on the stock turbo so figured the actuator a good place to get it without investing in a good controller. (possibly what i need??) And while im here, 2) Where is the most sensible place to take a boost reading for a gauge? I have an Apex'i EL2 Electronic gauge (fantastic piece of work!), and i "Tee'd" it into the short line going to the FRP, as per the Apex'i instructions. Im guessing Apex'i generally know what theyre talking about, but thought id ask what others have done. Any other info would be appreciated too. Thanks alot.

Been thinking of going this way myself. Currently have an Apexi pod, but with a Blitz LM it really limits almost to zero what you can do for cool air. I dont mind the noise it makes, sometimes i love it, sometimes i "wish it wouldnt do it all the time under load". Thinking the Apexi panel will be just as good, plus makes the engine bay look a little tidyer PS: Did you notice much difference between the two?

Considered a Blitz LM? If your going to use the stock piping..

The key to soldering is you MUST have a good quality Soldering Iron, that is actually hot enough to just touch the wires and join them like said above. Keeping a slightly cooler Iron on there for 3 or more seconds is when you get the hardening i believe.

Well you said the fan turned on when you put power to the relay, maybe it has a small leak? I dont think it costs much to get it tested. At least it rules it out Theres a thread on here with all the Skylines service manuals, try there might have a wiring diagram for the A/C..

If the Aircon gas pressure is low, the fans wont engage because they are somehow wired up to a pressure switch. so id say your up for a re-gassing.

Its probly cheaper to buy it, after printing the shit out for ease of use, youd probly spend close to the cost of the manual on the print paper and ink haha

Im sure your not that silly, but was this before you filled the filter? Im almost 100% positive that the OEM manual says that they take 4.5 litres. Thats what i always put in mine and it doesnt go above the F mark. Even 5L (that i put in for track, maybe a little over) it didnt show a great increase on the stick either.

Funny you mention that, I just got back from a track day in the 33. And after 5 hot laps and a cool down lap, i usually pop the bonnet right up and let it idle down for 3-4mins. Both with the Skyline and my Integra R. I noticed straight away that the immediate heat under the bonnet in the ITR was suprisingly ALOT hotter than the Skyline, IC pipes and Intake manifold were "cool", and so were the brakes! ( brakes being able to actually touch the caliper for a few seconds, but in the ITR, i couldnt even touch the wheels they were red hot, to the point the wheels changed colour to a burnt yellow/brown, lol.) Possibly because the Headers are at the front giving of the most heat, but i found it a little odd. Aftermarket CF/Fibreglass bonnets dont have shields do they? Havnt heard about too many heat related problems. Anyone has?

I dont think anyones ever had a problem with mixing two brands of fuels. Chances are if we knew the truth theyre the same shit

I was going to go for one of these too, but for some reason, it costs more to ship something from Australia to NZ than it does from Japan, and with exchange rates it was going to come close to 1K, so i grew a sac and bought a Blitz LM too. AMAZING cooler. so simple to install and set up. Im pretty sure there was a thread on here with pics of how the cooler fitted and the brackets that needed to be made for the top. Im curious to know what car they designed the "direct fit" cooler on? As i cant recall anyone having that bracket line up? Whats the story? With the side ones, not sure if its the same with the Stealth, but the Blitz has a nut and a bolt, and you just stick the bolt through a random hole in the chassy rail. Is it the same with the Stealth? Can see it here...

A friend of mine bought a 5spd Maxima over to NZ from the States, someone stole the intake manifold off that... random or what?

Yeah same with mine. Im guessing the Acid rain does it And the ultra violet probly changes the colour slightly. I used a bit of rubbing compound over the general area to even things up, then like you, a good polish. Came up great.

Im also lead to believe that soldering ECU wires isnt good because the loom flexes and moves a bit, and the solder can crack. But if you listend to all the things people say "might" happen, noone would do anything. Back to the topic at hand.... If you havnt sorted the problem out by Friday the 7th, i will be heading your way for a stag party for the weekend. So i will bring you my AFM. Just let me know if you need it.

And the winner of most pointless post this year....

Sup man, So i took the plastic off for ya on my stock, unmolested AFM wiring. Decided to see what the black tape was covering.. and oddly enough (as i dont know if its an OEM thing for everyone) under the tape, sticking out of the white shield is some exposed wire. Im not sure wether it does anything or is connected at the other end, but my guess is that it is part of the shielding? Anyone know? Let me know if you need anything else.

Anyone know the Regulations on shipping spray paint? There isnt any shops in NZ that stock the Anodize goodness paint

Agreed. And as far as i can remember, the hump actually does clear something at the back of the head. Theres some sort of gold coloured bracket.. ill try dig up a pic. Not the best photo, but you can see them. Looks like the hump is there because of them? Or do 20's have them too?

Might have been a good idea to ask this BEFORE purchasing! I believe an R33 Dump pipe will foul the firewall on an R34.

Yeah its a sticker. Doesnt mean it was re-sprayed, as i took mine of myself. All to do with taste i guess. And the four door 25t's had a badge as apposed to a sticker.