gotRICE?

why do you bother putting the cat sensor back in at all? Mines just tucked up under the exhaust shield. Im thinking of modding my JJR split into a non-split. IE cut the wastegat pipe out, weld up the hole at the bottom, tidy up the flange, and make the wastegate pipe similar to the HKS dump. IF it is cost effective. If not, HKS front pipe and OEM dump it is.

I did cut mine off Got so friggin pissed off with it, even with the hot water trick i slicked the f**kers off both ends and replaced them. Made life easy(er). Even putting the new ones on, and getting the clamps done up isnt rediculously friendly. R33 mind you, but same location.

Its like a cross between a camaro with a viper bonnet lenght, and an RX8 Anyone else see that??

Sorry, should have been specific. I really dont know alot about the turbo workings, so what exactly should i look for? Actuator wise.

Interesting! Will look into this. Any ideas? Im going to do a gearbox oil/diff oil change on sat. So when its up on the hoist im going to get a mate to look at wether its worth modding the JJR split. IE cut the split piece off, weld up the bottom hole, and make the dump more like the HKS dump. He is 1337 at that sort of stuff, so if its viable and not costly, ill do that. If not, another mate is selling an HKS front pipe. Ill get that and just use the stock Dump.

Darnit! lol. Might have to go back to the stock dump pipe. Get the boost gauge in and have a look at what it does with the stock one back on. So whats the story with JJR's "faulty product"? Im guessing its tough shit for the people that have bought them.

Not if you use "Simple Green" That stuff smells good hahaha, and its the best degreaser out!

its not very fair on a dyno as the fan isnt generally directed at the side mount.

Ha yeah i figured! All i can say is im glad its not creeping past the stock 33 turbo "limit" 11psi should be fine.

This is interesting. I have the same JJR split dump pipe on my R33, and my dyno shows that , in 4th gear where i would assume its under the most load, it creeps all the way to 11.2psi @ 5800rpm. And at this load, i would assume the flap would be wide open? And it certainly starts to taper off after 6000rpm. And that would say to me its more than likely not going to spike any higher, unless its very cold maybe. The only boost mod is the R33 "Hi-boost" mod. I wouldnt mind having a steady 10psi all the way across the board. Will have to invest in some sort of controller. Maybe i got lucky with mine clearing? I have an Apexi EL2 boost gague on the way from Nengun, so more close monitoring will be done when i hit the track next month. I just guessed seeing the dyno showed 11.2psi it was fairly safe and accurate. I hope im right Ignore that bit at the end. I think it hit speed cut and had a spazz.

At a guess "C" the water is flowing towards the turbo "A" Same And for "B", i would guess that its flowing from the front, to the back. As it is connected to the thermostat housing, and the water flows through the thermo housing "cooled" from the radiator. Just a guess.. is it really important what way it flows?

Would it rev 'freely' with a bung AFM tho?

Well they are sealed... But like i said, direct the nozzle at them and your asking for trouble.

Im going for my 1st trackday in my R33 in a few weeks. Have had plenty of experience in my old ITR, but im a little nervous of the RWD Turbo Would you recommend removing it before the day? Or just giving it a go with it and see how i do?

Uugh i wish i was paying that. I think 98ron (BP Ultimate and Mobil 8000) is around the $2.20ish. Has been for a while too. A good $110 fill from 1/4 tank.

So long as you dont direct and pressure for prolonged periods it will be fine. As in just spray your degreaser over everything, let it soak for a min then just gently hose it off with the garden hose. Maybe give certian areas a scrub with a brush if you need to. Basically avoid hard sprays at areas such as fuseboxes, pods, alternator (although it is low and probly gets wet frum underbody water in the rain anyway) and the lead cover/leads. If you jam the hose under the lead cover to clean it out then your just asking for trouble. I used to do this all the time on my Integra Type R, and never had a problem once with cutting out, rust etc etc. Just a nice clean engine! Will be doing this on my R33 today when i was her. As i did a coolant change/flush last night so theres a bit to clean up.

Not for GTT, but R34 GTR owners might be interested.. http://www.skylinesdownunder.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=57259 Guy back home developed it. Has everything you could want. Ipod, Radio, CD, Engine codes, GPS, DVD etc...

Interesting you say this, Is this just for DEt rocker covers? As as far as im aware from the last time i looked, the N/A covers dont have the humps at the back like the RB25det, nor do the RB20DEt? Do they all actually fit? As under the humps in the 25DEt theres some sort of baffle bolted to the head. Ideas? Ive never tried interchanging them so dont know if the "baffle" clears. But the humps must be there for a reason. RB20DEt (Random pic) RB25DEt (again, random) Seeing as the gasket question was answered, thought id hijack Cheers!

Sounds like the kinda job that you need to be paid for. Just buy a justjap one

6 month from the dead! LOL. So anyway i now have a Blitz LM front mount, and still have the same problem with having nowhere to draw cold air from. Might have to get it up on the hoist and see if theres any way of doing this.

If they are vehicle specific, yes. Try JJR.

Try pulling the interior door handle out. Its possible that it may have become disconnected from the mechanism? Give the bits of wire a tug!

1998 R33 GTS25t - 55,600km, nothing would make me think otherwise either. But who knows! Gives me piece of mind

x2 AFAIK the stock GTR cooler will be very adequate for quite a bit of power.

And it doesnt look half bad either! Nice job