gotRICE?

What kind of ECU? If it has no boost controller, then it will be running whatever PSI the actuator is set at, and with the lack of information you supplied im assuming it has a stock turbo, so it will be either running 7-9psi depending on mods, and if it has the solenoid connected or not, or 10ish psi if it has an R32 actuator. Only way to really find out is go get a cheap boost gauge and check.

Sporty

It will still look small and crappy

If you look down beside your passengers shock tower, you should see this: Its under that. Grab a torch and shine it around and follow the intercooler pipes. You'l see the NISSAN stamp on the compressor cover. Unless, its lol, and NA

This may be a silly question, but do you have any sort of boost control? You say you have "run 20psi" through the link, but if there is no boost solenoid to talk to it wont do anything. One other thing, check that the auxiliary output for the solenoid is actually switched on. Iv done changes before, and forgot to save them, or loaded and stored old tunes that didnt have recent changes etc. If the solenoid is non existent, or the auxiliary output isnt configured correctly, then you will only be able to run 5psi. As thats what the stock actuator is rated at. Try this too, hit F12 while in PCLink with the car connected, it will bring up the runtime values. Find the auxiliary output you wired the boost control to and see if its switched on there. Its also possible it has an RPM lockout. Might need to give it a rev to activate too.

As far as i could find when i researched mine, the 98 Anniversary model just had a few more factory body options over the rest. GTR Style front bumper, GTR wing etc. Mine seemed to get the whole hog. R34/SR20 CAS and i think they have an R34 cold start valve or something like that. And mine also had an extra VAC nipple on the plenum above the nipple for the FPR. Only seen that one one other 98 R33 S2 aswell. lol

moarrr vids!

LOL! Funny you mention that, as Lithium always said that the higher mine revved the harder it seemed to pull, and it really really takes off after 4500rpm. Makes full boost from 3200-3700odd gear dependant. This is the best example i could find. 1st one is 2nd from 2500rpm.. 2nd is self explanatory. I have Teins in mine too, and as you can see the road is rather bumpy. Seems to cope pretty well! My last day in NZ in May before moving to Perth. Poor Skyline sitting in a garage not getting loved Everyone loves VIDEOS!! http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v295/VTEXTC/?action=view&current=skid2.mp4 http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v295/VTEXTC/?action=view&current=skid1.mp4 edit: Media tags didnt work? only work for youtube?

If your talking about the car listed in your sig, you have shit tires! LOL! Mine will hold all the way through second gear, and if theres a fat ass in the back it will be not to bad in 1st either (if i have a full car, 1st gear from 1500rpm will hold all the way through. Pretty neat feeling actually.) 255/17 Adrenaline. 280-300odd dyno dependant killerwasps. GT30 .82 @ 17psi.

My stock ECU in my R33 got pathetic economy once i started modding it. Stock it was fine.. once the exhaust/decat/fmic/boost went on/up it turned pear shaped. I got a Link G4 in it with the stock turbo tuned and it returned it to more sensible levels. 450-500km a tank. With the GT30 i get better economy, 500-550 as i mentioned. But have spent ALOT of hours logging, reviewing logs, and fine tuning it to be the best it can. And when i say I spent the time.. i mean i drove around having fun while Lithium crunched numbers

I dont see how the power level really matters. Its only the amount of time you spend with it heavily loaded that matters. With a good economy tune for normal driving, and i rate my economy tune very highly, it should be more economical than it was when it rolled out the factory door Or dam close to it!

Hehe yeah i know. Its just entertaining for me for some reason. Small things.. I asked my dads friend what the economy was like in his Bentley Continental last year for shits, and he turned around and said "Son, i didnt spend $300K on a car to worry about how much it costs to fill the tank" LOL!

hahaha fuel economy questions make me lol I rented an SRT-10 Dodge Viper in Vegas this year and chewed through 60L of gas and only did 85miles Im guessing that had NOTHING to do with my driving though? hehehe. Mine is 280-300rwkw depending on the dyno, and i still get 550 a tank if im relatively nice to it. On a flat piece of highway i have got as good as 14km/L. I thought that was absolutely fantastic! But then the flat plains run out and it all went to shit in the twisty hilly stuff for the rest of the country. AFR's in the 14.3 - 14.7 on cruise @ 100km/h, and 11.6 - 11.8 full noise. (98octane)

Worst DIY ever Hope you get it sorted.

Only thing is, you want the intercooler wet before you come on boost. Thats why Evos and WRX have brake activated intercooler sprayers. If your going to go through that setup, then might as well stay FMIC. More efficient, and more effective.

I tried it once, it doesnt work too well as the DIN doesnt sit flat, so when you slide the drink holder out, the drinks tilt forward.. If you do it, im interested to see it, as the only DIN drink holder i found was a sack of shit from repco that broke the first time i put a drink in it so took it back for a refund lol.

hahaha yeah. Even with an R34 sidemount on my R33 it used to heatsoak with the stock turbo/boost. Not much fun. And as to the original question, the stock black intercooler piping is steel, so theres nothing wrong with using that, just paint it well or powedercoat it. I Kept the stock intercooler piping when i put my GT30 on my R33, and welded a small extension on it with steel. No rust or anything inside or out, and its been on there over a year. Thats just with a good clean up, sand, bit of primer, and normal VHT gloss paint.

Actually yeah i agree with Hadouken, do that first, and if the fuse is intact, THEN look at your wiring for 12v at the pump.

Changing to a side mount intercooler wont stop you ramming the right foot into the ground.. lol. Doing it now will probly make the front of your car look horrible. The bumper most likely would have had a lot shaved off it to fit the front mount. And your wrong Nissan didnt engineer the right size/location for the intercooler. Its too small, just like the turbo. hehe

on an Rb20, the Rb25 turbo will be allright at 14psi i believe. But i wouldnt push it any harder than that.

The first thing i would do is check the wiring and make sure its getting power.

I have no idea what that bottom actuator is but it isn't an r32 or r33 gtst actuator. Did you buy it off someonethat said it was? This is an R32 actuator, sorry the pictures small i cant find the original size. Notice the bracket is virtually identical, the only difference is the vac nipple on it is straight, instead of 90' like the one your one. With the vac setup, just take one line from the intercooler piping to the actuator, and unplug (end remove) the solenoid.

Your right OEM parts are a ripoff! I had to pay i think, $70 for a Ford Gasket for my GT30

Looks fine. My stock turbo would boost that high in neutral if I gave it a good stab like that. I think your worried over nothing.

To retarded. as I mentioned I was cruising at 100 kmh. it was blowing the combustion out the exhaust. No wonder it felt sluggish on the motorway lol.