gotRICE?

It all depends. Yes and no, dont forget your intercooler. And the way i see it, the turbo is going to superheat the air no matter what temperature it is sucked through the filter at.

Dunno if you have seen this, but it may change your mind about what you will buy next.. http://www.max-boost.co.uk/max-boost/image...filter_test.htm

Just thought id add that after a few hours of driving around town, the squeak came back but it is intermittent (spelling?) and is nowhere near as loud as it was, so its bearable. Hoping it might go away with age and wear.

I'd just thought id share my experience now Seeing as i had a set of Ferodo Formula TS2000's that squealed like a 12 year old getting ***** up the ass by a cat on a chalkboard, i tried re skimming the disc's, brake goo from Nam still to no avail. So, i returned my pads to Repco (handy having a mate there) to swap for another set the same. Just out of curiosity we checked the pads, the old squeaky ones next to the new ones, apparently the same. The old ones were a bare pad, in green The new ones were a black pad, with a green rubber piece over the back, where the squeak shimms would go! Interesting! So, getting home, installing the new pads, and just re-using the squeak shields covered in CRC Squeak stop (NB i did NOT apply any more, as there was still a sufficient coating, and did NOT apply any to the pad surface itself) Cleaned everything again with brake cleaner, re-installed everything, bed them is as per instruictuons. Let them cool off completely, and i have just been for a 5-10min drive around the city, up hills, down hills etc with variable brake force, and im happy to report that the brakes havnt uttered a peep Hope it stays this way! GL for everyone else. As it seems, there is no guaranteed cure. Its just trial and error, and i have found my correct method All smiles here!

Interestingly enough, i have the same pads, and i did EXACTLY as you did! Even filed the edges, used the same CRC goo, and the sound didnt stop Im taking the pads back and getting a replacement. Might buy a new shim kit as looking at the image on the previous page i am missing one of them. *sigh* So ill start fresh, fresh pads, fresh shims, fresh skimmed rotors, and fresh goo.. will update when i have done it. As it driving me CRAZY!

Nearly everyone i know with D2's in any car complain that the spring rates are faaaaar to hard. Especially on Aus and NZ roads

Am i to understand that you accelerate hard, put the clutch in while moving at Xkm/h and just coast?

Generally if your having 02 issues (this is from my Honda days here) then cleaning the O2 sensor with a lighter ususally cleared them up, and if not then the sensor was more than likely faulty, or there was a bigger issue. They sometimes just get really clogged up, i can imagain moreso in a Skyline. Wouldnt reccommend using any sort of fluid tho

And the best way to clean it is with a lighter

Hey guys, more of a "what are they going for these days", Having a bit of trouble scourcing a pair in NZ, anyone accross the ditch got a pair for sale? Want to keep the car going while i go ahead on my cosmetic tidy up.. heh. Want to see if my idea will look any good Also, could someone please inform me if the Non nurbo RB25 shares the same rocker covers as the RB25DEt? I would assume so, but want to be 100% sure. Thanks guys!

From what i hear, when you free up the RB's, IE intake and exhaust, the extra airflow etc makes the ECU run rich as a safe measure? And u just need an aftermarket ECU to tune it nicely.

Cant use EDFC on the Buddyclub can you? haha Ive been wondering what to choose for my R33 since before i got it! Think after reading this ill go for the buddyclub. Undecided on if i will go for the N+ ir the Racing Spec Damper... I like a bit of track use.. and like Aus, NZ roads are god dam hopeless with hard spring rates.

Im pretty sure you can buy a plug-in loom for them.Pretty cheap, really tidy, and you dont molest the OEM loom. No cutting, soldering or anything.www.nengun.com

Every adjustable damper i have ever used has been clockwise to harden and obviously opposite to soften. Why dont you wind it all the way clockwise, drive, see how it feels, then wind it all the way anti, and see what the difference is? There is generally a phenominal difference between fully hard and fully soft so it shouldnt be hard to figure out.

Well, did the problem go away when you plugged it back in? This happened on my XGF's Mazda, after driving for a while the brakes would slowly engage, couldnt get to 100km/h in the end, struggled at 80km/h. Turned out to be a shagged master cylinder.

Front 5 Rear 4 i believe

Im totally new to the Skyline/Turbo scene, but by the sounds of it, basically leaving the boost at stock levels untill you get Engine Management sounds like the way to go, even if you have FMIC, full exhaust, Intake etc..? (figured starting another thread was pointless, so ill jack this a tad.. ) Is it neccissary to re-gap the plugs to 0.8 when you just have intake and exhaust ( split dump/front, de-cat and catback)? Just wanna make sure im doing everything right :sorcerer: EDIT: Ignore me. Like 10 topics down was a 10 page thread that was hellova helpfull. Very interesting too! = n00b.

Hey, im kinda new to the Turbo scene too, Just picked up a 33 myself, is there any reason you would go FMIC before the split dump/front? I was planning on completing the exhaust before moving to the intake side of it. Have had a brand new HKS Silent Power sitting in its box for 3 months now lol. Pick up the car on Friday

Where does the "fat boat" come from? I always read that 80kgs was the only difference between 32 and 33? And if the 34 is 50kg more than the 33.. then whos the boat? lol Go out, drive a few examples of each car and decide from there. You cant buy a car based on what other people tell you. It has to be what YOU like in the end. But seeing as we are here, if it was me, i couldnt bring myself to listen to that horrible 4cyl sound all day long if i had the option of getting a 34 :puts on flame suit:

Because when i buy a car i ususally take a checklist with me for what i want - STOCK - Black - 50-70K km - 5 spd And if it doesnt quite meet that.. IE it has a couple of mods.. then i guess ill get a little coin in return selling the stuff its already got

True. Never thought of that... What about this: http://bosimporting.com.au/components/com_...d98e35fd871.jpg Taken from here: http://bosimporting.com.au/index.php?page=...t&Itemid=27 Anyone used them? Direct bolt on to the cat. Look pretty sweet.

I cant seem to find actual HKS Split dump pipes, i can find "HKS Style" but not HKS lol. Random huh. I will ask the supplier, but im assuming if it was HKS style then it would be produced off an HKS item, that in theory should bolt up to the HKS front pipe.. lol Dont really mind if its one piece or two piece.

At a guess, has noone used the combination im going for? There must be someone that knows!

This is the one. http://www.nengun.com/hks/stainless-front-pipe I guess it is possible its a combo. But looking at others it doesnt appear so. Could be wrong tho! Cost effectiveness isnt really my game Although cheap is good, i dont mnd spending the extra $ for high quality parts. I was considered a 'Mugen Whore" on NZHondas.com as i basically had the Mugen catalogue bolted to the Type R haha.

Hey guys. Really new to the Skyline scene, although have been a Skyline lover since i was a child. Have finally got out of the VTEC Club and into the.. PSI Club :laughing-smiley-014: Im joining the masses in the 97-8 R33 25-t area. Anywho.. I havnt actually purchaced a Skyline yet, but as i always do, im building a stock pile. Already have an HKS High Power Silent on the way from Japan, via Nengun, and am going to order a few more bits later on. Front pipe, Apexi filter, and anything else that catches my eye To complete the exhaust side of things im going to get myself an HKS Front pipe, some sort of de-cat/test pipe of the same diameter, and a split Dump pipe. Basically, the question i pose is: What do most peeps reccomend for a Split Dump pipe, and are there any out there that will bolt up to the HKS Front pipe without any modifications? As i am still new to turbos, i dont know wether the "good" branded aftermarket parts are designed as "Factory Replacements" and still bolt up to the rest of the OEM stuff. The HKS Front pipe is described that it bolts to the factory turbo, but im assuming they actually mean the factory dump pipe? So again, lets pretend right now i have a full HKS Exhaust, starting at the HKS Front pipe Now what Split Dump Pipe do i need to hunt? Hope its not too much for my 1st topic, as the search didnt answer my questions Thanks in advance. Look foward to your knowledge!