gotRICE?

This happened when my timing was out a little bit at cruise loads, after a 15 min drive at 100km/h (just an oversight.. thats what you get when you drink too much rum the night before then try tune on V and Pies ) I have pictures of EVERYTHING! LOL. Like to keep my work documented.

I wouldnt use that for a boost gauge. Just take if off where the stock one took the feed at the back of the plenum. Let the FPR have its own special vac source If the timing is out it could be letting some of the combustion out into the exhaust early, that would let the turbo spool.

Im not going to rant. I only stated my opinion Everyone to their own on the filter subject. I feel that each person needs to make up their own mind. I base mine back to the old Filter test. The foam jobbies were the worst of the bunch for filtration, but made good power. Edit: Cheers silverS2. Never been much of a showpony, just like it clean and simple. Never got around to stripping the blue cam covers. Wanted a gunmetal anodised look. Cars living under a cover back in Wellington now

Lol! Im bored.. Just moved to Perth and looking for work. So have nothing to do but watch the awesome Skylines roll past my place and spam SAU with hopefully, some good information There are some FINE examples in this area!!

Tis true though. My stock turbo would make good boost in neutral. The GT30 however does not lol

Simota do a 4inch Pod filter. Dry type. Using it on my R33 with GT30. Good and not too expensive. Personally would never use a foam filter on my cars. Plus i feel that any filter that needs oil to work properly doesnt have the greatest filter element to begin with. (LOL! Two engine bay spam pics in 5 mins!)

I dont think they will ever pull as much as the stock fan TBH. I think where people go wrong is bolting them straight to the core. They need a good shroud setup, not just with two holes in it the size of the fans, and the fans need to be spaced off the core 30mm+ to give them a chance of pulling air through the whole core. A friend of mine has twin thermos and a shroud on his Silvia (SR20) and it overheats after a while. Although interestingly enough its a bastard of a thing to get to operating temp lol. The shroud is so tiny that theres barely 15-20mm of space from the core to the shroud itself. Im guessing theres just not enough room for the air to move around. Are 32 Engine bays a touch smaller?, as in the gap from the fan to the radiator support?. I think i mentioned earlier (or in another thread) that a 52mm Alloy job fit fine in my R33 with the stock fan and shroud. Only needed to trim off a 10mm piece at the bottom to slot past a bolt on (from memory) the power steering.

The easier option is to cut it off and replace it with shiny new stuff if its that hard! I know mine was. Good on you for getting it off though. It will be easy as next time haha.

My opinion is, a picture if your wheels would be good

Im sure i already mentioned this, but the OLD wire in G4 had knock sensor inputs, but when Vipec came on, they requested that the Link version didnt have it, or electronic throttle control. I guess to make the Vipec look like a better unit.

So many of these make me want new wheels! Especially SSR's or BBS LM.. drool. Anyway heres mine. Pretty plain, wish it had more dish but they look pretty nice. Clean look. Thats my story and im sticking to it!

yeah your probly right. it came in from Japan like that. Lazy buggers!

Its all in the Tune

Its his way of rubbishing Link/Vipec to make his ECU of choice look better.

Id agree with that too. The turbo timer in mine used to make the car revs dip every time it beeped as it counted down. Never figured out why and couldnt be bothered unwirng it so just turned it off and hid it haha.

Yeah just dropping the radiator only gets rid of half the coolant if that. After draining mine and pulling the waterpump off i flooded the garage floor with 4+ litres of green shit. lol You shouldnt really need any thread tape or sealant on that bolt as it is tapered. So if you dont have any i wouldnt waste your money. But in saying that, if it leaks dont yell at me I didnt use it on mine when i took it out.

Some Nismo 555's will be fine for that, and have possibly enough room for some E30? Fuel pump, any of the ones mentioned will work. Depends on how much money you want to spend. The Nismo pumps are great, and are plug and play. Walbro (i have on) are fine. Am using it for 280-300rwkw dyno dependant, on the track and daily driven. Easy to install and cheap.

Where abouts have you taken the vac source from for the MAP sensor? Mine Rb25 has been idling like shit for a while now, and i have tried two IAC solenoids. Run out of time to test, but im guessing it isnt getting enough voltage (long story..) Try adjusting the tune to ridiculous amounts to see if the idle changes. Unplug the iac... see if anything effects it

Faulty calibration is hardly the fault of the ECU. That could be user input or a failed sensor.

im so wanting to see a video of this skyline. got anything on g00tube blueboost?

EDIT: oops.. I Hate Apple because... I live in a house with 5 iPhone 4s users, im the only one with a Galaxy S2. Every break, at least one of them is asking my how to get some App to work on their phone for when they are on their next stint.. It seems that there are all sorts of apps to "get around" how stupid itunes is. All they want to do is put their favourite porn on the thing and movies so when they are lonely in their donga's they have something to do. It took me over an hour to figure out the stupid f**king app. Simple answer, get an Android. Drag and drop. Finished. Then they all forget to bring their chargers home with them. Cant you just use the USB cord from your hard drive? No? Lameburger I tell you what a good business is. Last stint one of them smashed the screen (no surprises there). We got a mobile guy in to fix it, and for the last two years FULL TIME he has only repaired iPhone4 and Ipad screens at $200 a pop. Hasnt touched another phone, and the funny bit, is he uses an HTC. LOL The Mrs has burned through 4 batteries in 3 years on her Macbook. And her sister has burned through 3.

Proof it was you!

Picorban ^^

It will work fine, its just a bit on the dodgy side on mine at times because the GT3076R .82 internal is not quite up to the task.

It can be a little fiddly to get spot on, but once you find the sweet spot in the duty cycles its brilliant. Never have to worry about any boost spiking. You dont HAVE to use closed loop. You can just use the normal open loop boost control on the link. There is zero need for a standalone boost controller. The reason i was keen to use closed loop is because in NZ as you all are aware it gets quite chilly And when it gets cold, the boost goes up.. the open loop wasnt holding the boost down to the level i was happy to run in the cold weather. But with the closed loop, regardless of the conditions it will boost exactly what you want. Also in my case on the track (Rb25 + GT30 .82 internal), when the exhaust temps were getting up it was spooling up VERY quickly. The closed loop was struggling a little bit there, but thats because the internal gate is stupid And i wasnt keen to spend big money to go external. So on the track i turned it off and just run wastegate boost. Still plenty fast enough ha.