gotRICE?

Its great once you get it right. And, its exactly the same on both. VIpec=Link Link=Vipec..

Someone did the same thing to mine! I never even realized untill i pulled it out after i was having issues on the track with it only managing 2 laps untill it went over 100'C. Although to be fair, a 10mm single core core did quite a good job considering 300kw being abused on the track. I cheaped out and got a chinese radiator too as i was getting to the stage of not spending money. The OP must have really REALLY cheaped out. As mine fit perfectly with the shroud, and the temp sensor. 52mm. EDIT, just looked at those links. Mines exactly the same as the ASI.

Yeah, they are inputs that you need to write the knock block into I think.

The Vipec has inbuilt knock detection. The earlier Link G4 Extreme had them AFAIK, and when Vipec negotiated , part of the deal was the G4 couldnt have knock control, and something else that i cant quite remember right now. Im sure someone with the exact differences will jump on soon. Lithium will probly know. The link, you need a knockblock. It can be permanently wired into an input, or just use it when your tuning, like i did.

you think after 4 years he can get a refund?

It sounds to me like you unplugged the AFM.

This should shoehorn into an R33 no sweat. Might need a slight bonnet modification is all.

Because were all worried about fuel economy at full boost aren't we lol.

I have broken zero manifold suds . Touch wood

GTST/GTR conversion in Japan? lol. It does seem a little strange, and as you said, rough as guts.

Ugh dont do this!! SPILL IT! I bet you had your foot on the gas when you started it right? LOL

Mines got a GT30 hanging off it and hasnt broken anything yet Has been for over a year and many track days. If were talking stock turbo, i think the bellmouth is just a more sensible option for simplicity. But when your talking a larger turbo (internal gate of course) when you have to have something custom made anyway, you might as well go for that extra "1hp" and get something nice made up to suit the application. Do it once.. Forgot to ask, Mounting bracket? Are you saying that the exhaust is mounted to the chassy somewhere? Just cut that off now lol. The only place it should be mounted, IF you do it at all is the block isnt it? None of mine have ever had any brackets mounted on them. Although if i was doing it again with the larger turbo id probly go the extra leg and get something mounted just to give the turbo a bit of extra support.

Yeah sorry i cant help you with it either, but as far as i could tell it was a tapered bolt I think. Go to a wrecker and grab one out of an rb30 or something similar And Peter, if your car doesnt have ABS, it was possible for me to get it from the top with an extension and a knuckle thingy. Its on the rear of the block, just above the turbo water return i think! I meant to take a picture when i did it as NOONE seems to have ever done it clearly haha, but alas, i forgot

Yeah mines been working fine for a while now. On the stock turbo, and now for just over a year with a GT30.

Strange i didnt realize the R34 G4 didnt have an onboard sensor. Mine for R33 def did. RE- the IAT sensor, Link can supply them too, thats what i did. And just wire it into the AFM loom. Also handy to wire in your boost conroller (i use the Link one also) to the solenoid loom. Makes for FAR less f**king around under the dash wiring stuff in keeping your ECU loom pretty much intact. This is my Link IAT. As far as i can tell, and remember, its just screwed in. No drama.

Isnt a Vipec a Re-Branded Link? If so, in the Vipec version of PCLink there should be a folder called "Idle Speed Control" (this is assuming the software is the same.. ) Open the first setting in that folder, again, "Idle Speed control" and scroll down to "Idle RPM Table" Open up the map, and should be pretty straight forward from there. Choose your idle based on ECT. Have a play with it till you get it right. Im having issues with my Idle on my R33, but im thinking this is because the Idle control isnt seeing 12v iv tried two units on it and no go. Used to work.. lol. But i do have a circuit that isnt getting a full 12v, so im guessing this might be on the same one.

Wow thats expensive! Are the GTS and GTR dashs the same? A friend of mine just got a new RZ Supra dash for his Supra and it was around $3-500 shipped! Anything with a GTR badge attracts a tax

Its a roll of tape Just pay what it costs ya tight prick LOL!! :) So i dont start a new topic.. can anyone tell me if this stuff works on dash boards? EG under the steering column for turbo timers/ gauge control units? Iv tried so many things, command strips, double sided tape.. HOT GLUE! (this worked the best) But eventually everything has fallen off. I even cleaned the area with thinners to try get the dash oils away. One way or another it falls off in the heat.

35mm????!! Jeezus are you sure? lol. I dont think the compressor housing would fit between the shock tower with another 35mm hanging off it. Any pics?

I would say that the dash will be a straight swap. And hey, pop off the airbag cover and you could cheeky hide your aftermarket ECU in there Door cards should be the same too. As far as i can tell the only differences is the material/colours

I love GTR's, but id rather drive a Fiat Panda than do that. lol.

Im using a Mocal kit i pieced together myself. Pretty much the same as the one you listed bar i didnt go for the thermostat sandwich plate. Great products. No issues whatsoever.

You ever driven a Falcon? lol A clutch fan on an E/W mounted engine wouldnt do much cooling now would it?

It seems unlikely that it would clear the plenum and crossover pipe.

mine doesnt taper down. just up. and it hurts the power zero.