Rezlo

Welcome to my world, as far as I know I was the first person to do a euro RHD S14 to RB25 conversion, took me quite some time with the help of many people to work out all the wiring to work like it would from the factory. First thing, have you got the M63/F4 plug all sorted out and the lower harness prepped? Lower harness prep: http://www.rezlo.com/Pages/FSM/Files/RB%20...ex%20Cadiao.doc M63/F4 info should be around, ive got some RB25 -> S info here: http://www.rezlo.com/Pages/FSM/Fsm.htm What you can do is take a pic of your harness and email it to me, ill tell you what plug goes where as best I can, the rest you can back probe the ecu plug to work out where that wire lands up. Cheers

What upper harness are you running?

Very odd, I have a virgin RB25 S1, has 1.25mm restrictors in all 3 oil feeds... anyone ever had one like this? the last 2 RB25's I did were not like this. Also if you block the VVT feed off on this it will have no oil going to the front cam journal at all, obviously you have the feed from the block to the oiling ring, then the port that runs off via the solonoid back to the head to drain, it is totaly independant of the main galleys... Would any one like some pictures of drilling out the returns and matching the rear returns? I have taken some pics along the way. cheers

Well RB25 is high impedance and RB26 is low so youll need to install a resistor box to run the RB25 injectors with the RB26 ECU (I chose to just get 750cc low imp top feeds for my RB25 with 26pfc) Oil presure and all that is on the lower harness, I wouldnt worry about that, ure putting it into a 240sx by the look of it so all you use it one wire to activate the light in your dash, super simple, Air temp I used the sensor that PFC D-jetro asks for usage in the SR20 kits, turns out to be a mazda sensor, part number N3A1-18-845, I also ordered the SR20's temp sensor harness so I have the proper plug and all that. Coolant temp, near all nissan use the same ecu coolant temp sensor, you can keep the one that came on your RB25, but (if you are converting from KA) you can use the KA gauge sensor (the single wire one) for your dash read out so your dash gauge is accurate, well how ever accurate that can be as far as the IAC, thats a tricky one, thats where im at right now, in all honesty it should work plug and play, the actual mechanism is very similar between GTR and GTS-T but I would use a tone tester to verify the pin outs, R33Paul started on doing a conversion and Mafia finnished it, Unfortunatly Mafia is a pretty busy guy, but if I work it out before he gets a chance to let me know how he worked his IAC I will let you know. I presume your got a R32/3 GTR pfc? also did you get a D-jetro or the regular one?

Just had somone ask me an odd question, never thought about it before, but can you use a regular GTR or aftermarket intake cam gear on a stock RB25DET cam? I know in SR20's you can, but if memory serves the way vvt bolts onto the RB25 is different? He isnt running VVT with his managment and wants to get rid of all the added weight of the VVT pulley (and he thinks it might be dammaged and moving around a bit. Thanks

the RB25 uses a 16.2mm roughly ID holes in the valve covers, more than enough meat to go to a 18mm AN adapter...

With my pathetic jap reading, It says AN6 - M16 p1.5 as the fuel rail adapter it comes with, lets hope that Jap AN6 is the same as the regular -6an

thats what ive heard, one would think it would be regular -6an, but i would rather make 100%

Can anyone tell me which earls or aeroquip fittings fit the AN adapters that come with greddy fuel rails? Somone mentioned that they were not the usual AN fittings? damm pitty no one in a 1000 mile radius of me stocks fittings. Thanks

Just for interest sakes, anyone know what size 90deg fittings (Earls, aeroquip ectr) one can use on the breather holes to do it in braided/aluminum fittings? I presume RB25 and 26 have the same OD vent pipes? Also are most of you guys keeping the PCV valve and hose in place? or do you just yank it out and plug it?

Ditto, Ive got 8 Silvia SR20s running in the 11's on regular CP's, quite a few RB's as well.

if Map was so bad aftermarket and oem would not use them.Yes maf is marginally more accurate, but a correctly tunned map setup will work just as well, usually never even noticible.How many manufactures are moving away from maf and going to map due to reliabitly, packaging ectr, working for an oem and I can't see us moving to map especially with euro 4 emissions if there were not clear advantages that outweigh the tiny bit of accuracy seen on a perfectly clean maf.My biggest love of map vs maf is IAT temps, a most maf cars can not compensate for intercooler efficiency due to most not using iat sensors due to the nature of the maf, map systems have to use iat sensors so it can.

I dont know about yours, but Rb25 swap to GTR is fairly simple, injectors, a few wires to add on and obviously the apexi map/temp harness bits and your in business, The reason I didnt go haltec or autronic was the shear simplicity to do small corrections on the fly with the pfc as well as being able to monitor knock, voltages ectr, here in South Africa our fuel is unpredictable, one can see imidiatly if the knock increases and i can just temp remove a deg or 2 of timing out if need be,

Ive been threw this, Z32 maxed at 330wkw, Q45 maxed at 350wkw odd (used every Q45 part number as i had access to, use a lot of them), went round and round on what to do, including taking a Z32 or Q45 and cutting the sensor out of it and mounting it into my 100mm intake with a 45mm lexan tube around the bar to stop turbulance and cross flow, a few people are in the proccess of doing this., Eventualy I sold my used RB25 PFC on ebay and got a new R33 GTR D-jetro with sensors and everything and it cost me all of $60us difference (got to love how discontinued items rocket in value), I had to upgrade my fuel system for the new motor so I just got low imp 1000cc top feed injectors with a greddy rail while I was at it. MAF problems sorted/aborted and no more idle stall with the dual atmospheric bov's YAY

Have you ever had problems with ARP mains in the RB's when torqueing to ARP spec's? Ive had loads of problems with them in SR20's pulling the block slightly and causing crank bind and finding people in South Africa to line bore SR20's is a real challange, left me with sour taste especialy when you have to grind 2 of them down so it doesnt crack the oil pan. I normaly use all their studs besides the mains, but with my RB I will need to upgrade but I really dont want to line bore a 11 000km old motor.

Im looking for some GTR front calipers, either R33 or R34 to ship to South Africa via Post office Air mail,. If you have a set please let me know [email protected] thanks

Never mind, worked out they low, running a RB25 with a GTR PFC gets complex :-p

Hi guys, did a search but didnt find it, Are R33 GTR injectors high or low impedance? Many thanks

Hi guys, R33 GTS-T, does it share the same outer tie rods as the S14's? Odd quesiton but ive got some S14 rose joint outer tie rods somewhere, dont want to spend 2 hours unpacking the store room if they dont work Thanks

They are a touch out of my budget unfortunatly, Looks like a toss up between the Nismo supercoppermix twin and the ORC 709, has anyone got first hand experience with the orc 709?

You dont need to prime it, cranking the motor over initialy to get oil presure will feed the turbo, during cranking with the spark plugs out (how you should crank over a new motor to build oil presure) the turbo will not spin, even with the spark plugs in it will hardly turn, only once its started will you need that oil there fairly rapidly.

I was looking at that, its looks fantastic, ORG 709 also looks awsome, also dampered,

What is the pedal weight like? I need somthing that wont kill me in a little bit of traffic, I nengun dont sell them, any idea who does or rough price idea?

Currently Im running a dual diafram clutchnet PP with 6puc sprung disk and a fidanza ally flywheel, thing shudders A LOT, its not a very nice formualtion they used for the disk pad's. For now it has been ok, land up with a very sore left foot and battle to pull away in the wet or up my driveway without chriping the tires. I am not looking towards somthing with lighter clutch pedal effort, and slightly more HP capability to suit the new motor with around 400kw, Been looking at some twin plate's and from previous experience with the old school twin plates it leaves me with a sour taste, is there anything on the market you guys use that is not to brutal with shudder and clutch load yet can hold some decent power? Did a search but couldnt find anything useful. The car is used on the street with very ocasional track usage, and the odd drag with fairly small M/T ET streets Thanks

Double tripple and quadruple check your wiring, and solder each connection especialy the power wire going to the launch box, it has to be from the ECU so it remains under power while cranking, One of my customers made that mistake once. If your wiring is all correct, then youve got a dammaged unit, Ive installed probably 20 of these units already, all of them have worked perfect, amazing little think! helped my drag times a HUGE amount, just dont sit on the launch control function for more than a few seconds as it will damage your O2 sensor and foul your spark plugs, I normaly go onto the launch limit 2 seconds before green.