GTR 400

Wow the Tein monoflexes come in 7kg front and rear the car handles awesome and to me and all my friends surprise is very comfortable for the street, i think your spring rates are a little to hard for the street, i am going by my experience with mine as before i purchased the coil overs i did alot of research on spring rates and generally anything over 7kg was going to be hard and bouncy for the street, all the best can anyone help me with my previous question on the rear upper camber arms please. cheers.

Hi sorry little of topic i have a r32 gtr and its lowered quite alot with Tein monoflex coil overs can someone please tell me what is the right aftermarket part to replace the rear upper camber arms, i was thinking of buying JIC brand but dont know if i get the bush type or pillow ball uppermount type?. I want to dial a little of the camber that i got when i lowered the car. Cheers.

Hi hope this helps, when my R32 gtr was stock standard i got 182Rwkw on dyno and with that in mind with all the restrictions they have i could not get more than 7psi of boost, but when to eastern creek raceway and ran a personel best of 12.402sec 1/4mile time with papers to prove it so i was so impressed the modification bug started after that night, goodluck with the car. cheers.

Because they are in accurate pieces of ****

Sorry just curious what has made you go out and buy this set up? I dont have any personel experience with the product but as always you hear guys saying that they are crap, or they dont look like a sound product etc etc etc. I was considering buying them also but have not had heard anyones experience with them as to how really good and reliable they are yet, so i am holding of till i get some info on what the product is really like. Have you got any info if the product is good as it would make for a really great brake package for me if they are reliable and safe, any feedback would be great.

I cant claim to have the knowledge mechanically to respond to your last question but with the knowledge i have learnt in working with these cars it does make sense as to what you said that it should give a more accurate intake temp as it is now reading true intake temp versus engine heat soak temps. I to used to have readings of 47 to 52 degrees intake temps depending on ambient temp and how hard i drove, and it makes sense that that is gravely in accurate for the ecu as intake temps would be nowhere near that hot.

Hey Ragnrok, I have just come from this exact situation, when i finally installed all of my mods cams,injectors, cooler everything when we put it on the dyno my car ran like shit after 10 min when she cooled down bingo went away, i spent hrs pulling of coils changing plugs earth straps etc,etc,etc ,anyway make it short i changed the IGNITOR and presto she ran perfect once again just like i remember it. Borrow one of someone just to see if it works then you know your problem, this problem was really bad more so when i was driving on the street than the dyno. I am 90% sure the ignitor is your problem seems common on our older skylines now parts are getting old and we are pushing more power out of what they ever had to do standard. Hope this info helps you. Cheers, Dave.

I always thought of it as the sensor was necessary for the original ecu when it ran in closed loop, but with the PFC that takes it all away as you are tuning the car to run a certain way at all different boost levels etc, etc, etc, you should in theory as an example if i am correct be able to pull out the exhaust sensor and it wouldnt make a difference to the car right? Hence why the dyno tune from scratch when you have so many mods added to the car, so re routing the sensor shouldnt be a problem that would affect the car. So i have used it for a better purpose of monitoring my intake temps. Please correct me if i am wrong is the inlet temp sensor still needed once you have had a PFC installed and your car re tuned on the dyno for all the supporting mods???

Wow how this thread has taken of now hardly any one bothered before well thats good, so getting back to the air temps that i stated before this i will update, on a normal 25 degree day my cooler will sit on Ambient depending on if its city driving or a slight highway bash on the F7 or M2/M5/M4, although i will add my cooler even in city driving will not go above ambient if i have been driving sensible. I have gone out and absolutely given my car the dick for a good 5mins all 335Rwkws worth and i will swear that i will not get more than 5 degrees above ambient, its incredible and no i have no water spray. the sensor works perfectly nothing wrong with it that for sure. I will retract my 2 to 4 degree below ambient even though on a cold night i do achieve those figures but in every day driving in the city i get ambient. But this i noted in my TESTS that after i turned of the car for at least ten minutes, then started it up again to drive of somewhere the cooler heat soaked from the engine bay temps and it then was 4 degrees above ambient even just driving normal speed limit, and it would mot come down to ambient unless i went for a highway cruise and even then for a good ten minute uninterupted cruice the cooler could not shake of that heat soak better than 1 degree it would require alot longer drive for it to come back down as the cooler is so big that once the stationary heat had soaked into to it, it needed alot of time to entirely cool the whole core down. My temps do not fluctuate like Kjb r33 do they are steady, and only more like i said before if i hit her real hard. I do have the rubbers removed from the rear of the bonnet where the bonnet meets, and all at the front lights etc and i have a 15mm raised bonnet to help assist the heat disapating out of the engine bay which works a treat i will add. My cooler can just cool down the hot air that my turbos are producing that efficient and well that ambient or a little above on any given temp day is not a problem for my big bulky cooler to achieve. I guess garrett 2860r dash -7 flowing at the absolute maximum just dont delivery enough hot gas flow for my cooler to have a problem re cooling down. This is my true testing and with this cooler i guarantee if you have all the right mods with fuel,injectors,exhaust etc this cooler size should do exactly the same to any other R32GTR. Cheers, Dave.

Well i now have found out real time intercooler temps. My R32 GTR has a air temp sensor that is in the inlet manifold, i took this of extended the wires, took of the aluminium intercooler piping and got a tap welded to it with the same thread as the sensor and bolted it into place. I put a bolt in the inlet manifold with washer and PRESTO my PFC hand controller now reads real time intake temps. I love it it works perfectly and i have a Trust 150mm tube and fin intercooler my intake temps are usually 2 to 4 degrees below ambient on a day of 27degrees. This massive cooler works SUPERBLY. You can never have enough cooling i reckon well i have sold my problem when the sensor was tapped into the inlet manifold it was getting heat soak hence why my inlet temps where so high.

I had a just jap 100mm tube and fin cooler for my R32 GTR and i pulled 335rwkw with it on. It is ok but doesnt seem to like the repeated dyno runs when she has been pushed. It seems good to get to this power but i am changing to a Trust cooler only because i am changing turbos which will get me to 400R+rwkw ,and we felt this cooler was not flowing enough to go beyond this point, but hey for 300 odd dollars to get to this power is still great mind you i still have the standard rubber piping i just replaced the cooler only. Also any one interested in a 2month old jjr tube and fin cooler i will be selling it cheap $250 still like brand new i live in Sydney.

Hi just a little of the topic but do you really need an oil cooler?, i have a R32 GTR and with 300+Rwkw my oil temps dont get that hot and it takes long enough to get it to operating temps as well. Would there be adverse effects on cold nights when your oil cant get up to its required temperature which can cause premature engine wear?.

I am wanting to know what sort of intake temps should a turbo car be running roughly. Eg if ambient temperature outside is 25 degrees what sort of intake temps should i be seeing. I have a R32 GTR highly modified with 335Rwkw and with my Pfc hand controller when i am cruising along after driving for about 15mins i notice it is reading 45 degrees intake taken from the factory sensor tapped into the front of the intake manifold. Yet if i jump out and touch the intake side after the air has passed through the cooler it is really cool like as if ambient temp outside or slighty cooler than, so im thinking damn that doesnt make any sense its really cool but my controller says its not, i always assumed that the intercooler will match the air temp outside or a little lower than it at night. I am running a Huge Trust tube and fin 149mm cooler which is in my opinion one of the best brands of cooler product coming out of Japan so if this PUPPY cant cool than nothing else will. But still my temps displaying on the Pfc hand controller are usually 20 degrees above the given ambient temp outside, so i am asking people in the know is it maybe my intake sensor is probably not accurate, or is that really the best air temp ratio to outside temps a cooler will keep. Mind you i am not pushing the engine yet even though when i do it only goes up 1 or 2 degrees. Is this right or is there more to it????????? I was actually having a joke about it with a close friend saying that maybe the sensor is faulty and reading the temps before its going into the intercooler hahaha. But when i start the car the controller reads from the sensor the ambient temp outside and then it will gradually go up till it meets the required happy level. I am puzzled and confused anybody that can expand on this dilema please.

When i got my X force 3.5 inch system i had it installed by a reputable installer and the dumps and front pipe where not correctly made to measure, as in it was only 1 or 3mm away from the chassis rails and i would hit for sure. Also where the dumps bolt to the turbos because of the tight tolerances when trying to bolt the exhaust on there was alot of pressure on them which would mean with the bumps etc the gaskets would eventually leak gas out, everything was just to tight a fit. So they just cut and angled the front pipe a little to clear away from the chassis rails and that in turn made alot less tension on the exhaust system. Shit you dont want a flange leak its hard enough to do a exhaust dump pipe change as it is, that was the only problem i came across, i even rang up X force and they wouldnt agree but DID not disagree, i was easy to see, did that and have never had a problem with it and i have had it on now for 8 months and drag raced the crap out of my gtr and its still perfect with plenty of clearance.

Well it seems the HKS 2530s seem to be the the turbo of choice for the gtr twin set up

I dont know much about the HKS brand of turbos but it seems alot of guys are using these on there gtr twin set ups, can someone who has them please tell me what one would see me to 360-380Rwkw, and what sort of rpm will these be making max boost. I have RB26DETT, forged bottom end with all the mods needed:3.5Inch exhaust, stage 2 tomei cams and cam gears, fuel pump, injectors, trust cooler,PFC, etc, etc my current set up turbos are the garrett 28/60r dash -7 the smallest of that series and cant get more than 335rwkw max out of it but i have full boost at 18psi by 4000rpm. What HKS would see me to those figures above and will i sacrifice alot of responce.

Thanks Uras what about the turbos do you think i can get up to 360rwkw with these turbos and the -7 comp housing or do i need the -5 to get there.

Uras do you think that the JJR cooler would not be able to flow and be a noticeable restriction over the 300rwkw range which is what could be giving me a bottle neck somewhere or is the original rubber piping restrictive for big horse power or not. Also correct me if i am wrong but i have been told that the garrett 28/60r should be able to give a rb26dett with the correct supporting mods which i have up to at least 360Rwkw is this true also.

Thanks guys i checked the cat we took it of and put a straight thru pipe ran it up and no change in power my cat is flowing, besides the miss , some say that maybe my cooler is a bottle neck i am running a JJR 100mm tube and fin with the standard rubber piping still. I am going to check the wiring and see if the coils are getting the right amount of voltage for sure as this sucks i should be able to run more boost but cant. Just curious can the split fire coils be amped anyway to increase the spark at all? not that they might need it but can it be done.

Hi i there i am running the garrett replacement turbos for original items gt28/60r -7rear comp housing. The motor is RB26DETT with stage 2 tomei poncams adj cam gears, full 3.5 inch exhaust power fc injectors etc, the cooler is new also only 3 months old

Hi i have a just jap 100mmx600x300mm tube and fin upgraded intercooler and i am experiencing a bottle neck somewhere stopping me to make more power, i thought at first my cat was blocked so took it of ran it up on dyno and same power, my tuner thinks that my intercooler cant flow enough and i still have standard piping. Has anyone bought one of these coolers and got in excess of 330Rwkw, this info will let me know if the just jap coolers are efficient enough for big power or actually a restrictive core over this power. If this is the case then this may be why Trust,Blitz and ARC for example may charge so much for there products because you pay for what you get i guess, can a $400 jjr cooler flow and be as efficient as a $1100 jap brand cooler well i dont know but i need to find out.

Hi to all i just got my new Stage 2 Tomei poncams installed in my R32 gtr, with the adj cam gears, new iridium plugs gapped to 0.7,Sard 700cc injectors, split fire coils, and o44 pump with Apexi PF, etc etc tuned all together. I seem to have a bad miss from about 5000rpm to 8000rpm its not over the complete range but random in this rev range, the split fires dont seem to be up to the task is there some way to amplify the spark delivery better because my spark plug gap is getting smaller all the time we cant open it up because of the miss on the dyno whilst tuning. Very frustrating i heard in a previous old post that split fires are not as good as the originals is this true or does it happen that split fires do occasionaaly stuff up or might need to be amp up to get more spark, i am pushing 335Rwkw already and up but this is limiting me alot can anyone help please.

Hi there i dont know what car you have but mine is a R32 GTR and i just put ion a set of TEIN Mono flex and they are brilliant i have said before all my friends have been using Tein for street and track work and they are built well and reliable dont leak easily at all unless you mount a gutter or fly of the track at 120klms in grass and soil holes. They run 7kg spring rate front and back and are comfortable but give your car rail handling OMG there good.

I own a R32 GTR and just installed brand new TEIN Monoflex coilovers, they run front 7kg and rear 7kg with 32 point damper adjustment, and i can say that they are absolutely brilliant with about 4 inch of Base height adjustment to come down so that the springs stay same height. They are still comfortable on softest setting car is shit loads more rigid with alot less body role. Mind you i have them 3.5inches lowered rolling on 20inch rims hehe so anything smaller in rim size would be perfect also, good luck but i swear buy Tein all my mates have had them for years and tracked there cars heaps and no problems.

Well i live in Sydneys south and can get them at an awesome price of Fronts $110 i pick them up have a mate in Repco haha.