Deano45

You can get the engine in and out through the top without any real troubles. I did this on my R33GTR with box and engine complete. My sump extension is slightly larger than the hi-octane one and although it is tight, you can get it in. Using the hoist to angle the car and the engine crane, they should be able to get it in. Link to here to show sump extension Link here to engine in car It all comes down to cost/labour in the end. Will it be quicker for the workshop to drop the sub frame or through the engine bay?

For the Turbo Guru's out there when we are referring to the -9's are they the GT2859R-707160-9 model that Garret Lists I am trying to get pricing on a pair for a GTR I know the -5's and -7s are the GT2860R - 707160-5 & GT2860R - 707160-7 thanks for the help.

up to not over lugs do it up firmly. Most of the sealing is done by the hose itself.

Sorry, I don't follow. Part numbers for what?

Correct Dave. Makes a difference at high RPM. We both know someone who went through this exact issue. The whole idea of the nismo setup is to be able to run a heavier clutch and still have the same feel, hence the larger master and slave cylinders. They are designed to work together.

Don't bother with the nismo slave unless you use the nismo master.

You would just do the opposite as you are going from push to pull

Hi Dave, Shame about loosing the caps. Is it the hexagonal nut and gold bit in the middle? For one offs, injection molding would be expensive. They have to draw it up, then get the molds made. Then you do the injection, measure everything up and modify the tooling if it is not quite right. Machining would be possible. It would be the time and effort to draw them up and then machine them by hand or automated on a mill The other option would be to look at casting them and finalise with machining. Do they just sit in there? If you do get these made, you could also look at modifying them so they can't just fall out. good luck, Nathan

Or swap the clutch fork and slave cylinder over to push type. Should be cheaper than a converter. I've done this on a GTR box and used the parts from an RB25 box, So I can't see why it wouldn't work on your one. Keep away from the converters unless it is specifically made for that clutch. Been down that road already with an OS Giken pull to push converter. Had one for my OS clutch but when I changed to the NPC it wouldn't clear.

I ran the stock Brembos on my R33GTR at the recent SAU NSW track day. I had the Project Mu HC+ pads in the front with AP600 brake fluid. Had no breaking issues all day and pedal felt consistent. The pulled up quite well and anyone who went in my car with me on the day commented how well they pulled up. Pads weren't that expensive at $329 I haven't had time to check the wear rate on the pads or rotors yet. I still had the stock rotors on the front too.

Did anyone get any photos of the yellow RX7 running around? We've emailed Oz Event Photos too.

Had a fun day at the track on Saturday. Car went well without any problems at all. Learnt a lot about how to drive the car and what needs to be done next to improve the handling of the car. Started off the day on full slicks. Due to the lack of my driving skills and it being so cold, I couldn't get any temperature into them. This caused me to spin a few times, but managed to keep it off the grass. Swapped over to my road rims and tyres. Spent the rest of the day having fun and learning the correct lines and where to push to the limits of the tyres. Got faster as the day went along. The day was run really well and went smoothly. I highly recommend going to the next one. Can't wait to get back to the track. Looking into getting a performance box, this way I can time my laps and use the GPS data to analyse the lines I am taking on a track.

Well organised, controlled and run day. Was good to finally get my car out on the track and learn how to drive it. Was good to be in a group of the same level as me. Thanks to BenM for jumping in and giving me some pointers on basically how to drive to the whole track. It helped me immensely. Thanks and well done to all the organisers and helpers for the day. I am looking forward to going back next year. Now bring on the pictures!!!

Good to hear. So why would you want the KAI version of the T51R then?

Should go the SPL version. Your motor's big enough to handle it.

How about you stop being lazy and do a search for yourself? I am assuming that this is for a R33GTST since you didn't list this in your original post, but have in your details on the left. I suggested just jap which I hope is in your price range of $249 There are suppliers on here that you can ask. There is Google. try entering in a search for r33 gtst intercooler piping Try ebay as well. How much are you looking at spending? Not too hard to find things with a bit of effort.

Just jap sell them

Oil cooler is installed and catch can setup is being modified today in prep for SAU NSW tack day this Saturday. I will post up photos when I can get to the car tomorrow.

I take it cars don't have to be road registered as this is a private track? My mate might be bringing his car along if he gets it prepped.

Have a look under the car. At the back of the transfer case is a hydraulic line. Chase this back to the pump on the right hand side of the car. This would need to be modified so that you could trick the pump into thinking that the transfer case is pressurized, but has been diverted away. As I said. I am looking into something similar with my car (33GTR) once I have had some fun with driving it again.

That is for bleeding the attesa system and forces the pump to run when it is disconnected, so your idea won't work. What you need is to be able to take the fluid pressure out of the transfer case. It's something that I have thought about doing using solenoids to block the line that the attesa pump uses to pressurize the transfer case , but am yet to look at further as my car is just back on the road now. In regards to a TSC, Ruzic engineering (mountain runner on here) one wins hands down on what is does, compared to the simple ones. TSC's are no good for the R33 and onwards based attesa ecus for trying to make a GTR real wheel drive. It will still damage the transfer case.

As the SAU NSW track day was coming up and I had some spare time, so I took my car back to my friends panel beating shop (All Prestige at Condell Park). He had gotten me some N1 vents for it (fibreglass replicas). I spent the day installing them. I wasn't worried too much about painting them at the moment, so he just blew in some white paint that he had laying around from another job. I hope this helps aid the cooling of the car. The really needs the bonnet and front bar painted, but will get these later on.

Engine now had some Kms on it and was run in enough to take back to CRD for a tune. It was when Jim was trying to add more pre-tension to the wastegates, that he discovered an issue with them. 1) I hadn't originally set enough pre-tension on the wastegates. This meant that the gates were still slightly open, which would of caused the turbos to be a bit laggier 2) There wasn't enough adjustment on the wastegates to get them set to hold 14psi. My brother and I ended up pulling what I needed to off the intake side of the engine to get to the actuators. We removed the actuators and they got modified, then we refitted them and Con set the correct pre-tension to 14psi. Finished putting the intake side back together and got it ready for the Dyno tune. CRD found that the NISMO pump was not flowing enough, but the simple grounding mod fixed this issue. Jim then did the tune, dialled in the cam gears and finally swapped over to some copper plugs. I asked them to do this as they are a lot cheaper to replace than the platinum plugs (which are necessary). Car originally made 330Kw at 18psi with the air flow meters maxed out. As I was after more response and track safe tune, Jim concentrated on the 15psi tune. I ended up sacrificing overall power for this goal. I was extremely happy with the tune and the response. Hopefully this will show at the track day. See the first post in this thread for the Dyno graph.

Which state are you located in? Just because it is engineered in one state, doesn't mean it will pass in another. Have you done anything to the chasis rails or are they stock? Not really interested in it, just trying to cover all bases for you. good luck with the sale/swap!

Dropped the Car off to CRD for them to fix the Attesa error codes, and to do a run in tune on the engine. Also had Jim do part of the run in on the Dyno. I dropped it off on a Thursday morning and by that night Jim had called me saying that the errors had been fixed. He had started on the tune and would continue to break in the engine on the Dyno for me. Car made around 220Kw. I was quite happy with this and had fun taking the car for drives to break the engine in.