Deano45

I suggest that you look at nitto too. Available from CRD. They run them, themselves. http://www.nitto.com.au/ They are the right price. I would stay away from the Nismo N1 oil pumps Have a read here a lot of info on oil pumps For sump baffles, do the extension too. Hi Octane do them All this stuff is available on the east coast as you want, but you should call them for pricing.

Who ever you get to install the turbos should be able to do it for you or whoever is tuning the car as you can still get access to them when they are installed. As long as they are the same, then the EBC should be able to take car of the PSI you want to run.

They are adjustable You wind them so that they are tensioned more to hold the wastegate shut. before you put them in, check what pressure they open up using a pump with a pressure gauge of some sort. Much easier to do out of the car. You want them to be the same. I adapted a radiator pressure tester to do mine.

I want to see pictures of this new sexy shifter!!

Do you know how they did the conversion, did they use the OS Giken pull to push converter kit or did they actually change the fork and move the slave cylinder to the mount point on the front of the bell housing? I changed mine over as I used to have a OS Giken twin plate in my 33GTR, bought an NPC twin plate push type to use instead but it didn't work with the converter kit. So I just changed the gear over and it is now a proper push type arrangement. I suggested a twin plate because of the power you want to make. The is more surface area for the clutch to bite.

$450 That's about on par with the price for the HKS ones. That's what I paid for them. LotusGTR: my Garret GT2860R -7 turbos came with adjustable actuators when I bought them. I took them off and replaced them with the HKS ones. I guess it's who you buy them from.

All 32/33 GTR boxes will work. There is nothing special/different about them in the VSpec. I would look at getting a twin plate clutch. It all depends on your budget. What sort of clutch do you have in it at the moment? Providing that you aren't using the OS Giken Pull to Push converter, any push type clutch for a GTR will work. Do the gearbox and the clutch at the same time to save on labour costs.

Is it the Ruzic Engineering one that you are talking about?

I could be going down the wrong path but these are the codes for the Attesa ETS ECU in the R33 GTR. The diff is the same one as the V-Spec, so I would assume that it would use the same/similar computer to control the diff & ABS. Going off these codes 75 is the Throttle Position sensor. This normally looks for 0.5v fully closed. You can check this with a multimeter and move the sensor until it has that reading. PM-R33 looks like he has covered the error 62 Error Codes: 1,5 Front right wheel sensor and circuit 2,6 Front left wheel sensor and circuit 3,7 Rear right wheel sensor and circuit 4,8 Rear left whel sensor and circuit 11,21 Front right inlet solenoid valve and circuit 12,22 Front left inlet solenoid valve and circuit 13,23 Rear inlet solenoid valve and circuit 15,25 Front right outlet solenoid valve and circuit 16,26 Front left outlet solenoid valve and circuit 17,27 Rear outlet solenoid valve and circuit 31,32,33 E-TS solenoid and circuit 34,35,36 E-TS fail safe solenoid and circuit 41,42 ABS actuator relay and circuit 43,44 ABS actuator motor , motor relay and circuit 45,46,77 ET-S/ABS control unit ground and circuit 47,48 E-TS/ABS control unit power supply and circuit 51,52 E-TS actuator motor and circuit 53,54 Pressure switch and circuit 55 Air bleed switch and circuit 56 E-TS oil level switch and circuit 61 FR and RR G sensor 1 and circuit 62 FR and RR G sensor 2 and circuit 63 FR and RR G sensor 1 or 2 and circuit 64 G sensor 1 power supply and circuit 65 G- sensor 2 power supply and circuit 66 Side G sensor and circuit 75 Throttle position sensor and circuit and sensor

Sorry try this link The other link didn't post properly What error codes are you getting?

I don't know if you have seen This but it has links to other topics on the SAU forums that have lot of info on the Active LSD option in R33 skylines. Maybe try checking it out first. It may clear your error for you but doing some simple bleeding.

Belts are usually generic. They should have a product code on them so you can get new ones. If not take them with you and they should be able to match them up to new ones.

Thanks for that, already have the manual that you speak of but it contains none of the attesa/ETS Pro stuff for the R33 models. There must be another part to the manual as the 32 one contains troubleshooting for the ETS. As you said it's pretty hard to find.

This didn't seem to work. I hope I did it right, I left the ETS connected, disconnected the battery and pressed the brake pedal for 30 seconds. Has anyone got the wiring diagram or manual for the R33GTR ETS-Pro?

Thanks, I'll try this tomorrow

I assume you mean the water temp sensor. This screws into the radiator. Drivers side, down the bottom.

I Need some help with the R33GTR attesa ETS system When I start the car all the lights on the dash switch off then the 4WD, A-LSD and Check engine lights some on. On the Attessa ETS error codes I get errors 5 & 6 Now from a bit of reading I believe the R33GTR ETS system is different to the 32 one. I found the what I believe to be the error codes on This site error codes for R33 GTR vspec and regular: 1,5 Front right wheel sensor and circuit 2,6 Front left wheel sensor and circuit 3,7 Rear right wheel sensor and circuit 4,8 Rear left whel sensor and circuit 11,21 Front right inlet solenoid valve and circuit 12,22 Front left inlet solenoid valve and circuit 13,23 Rear inlet solenoid valve and circuit 15,25 Front right outlet solenoid valve and circuit 16,26 Front left outlet solenoid valve and circuit 17,27 Rear outlet solenoid valve and circuit 31,32,33 E-TS solenoid and circuit 34,35,36 E-TS fail safe solenoid and circuit 41,42 ABS actuator relay and circuit 43,44 ABS actuator motor , motor relay and circuit 45,46,77 ET-S/ABS control unit ground and circuit 47,48 E-TS/ABS control unit power supply and circuit 51,52 E-TS actuator motor and circuit 53,54 Pressure switch and circuit 55 Air bleed switch and circuit 56 E-TS oil level switch and circuit 61 FR and RR G sensor 1 and circuit 62 FR and RR G sensor 2 and circuit 63 FR and RR G sensor 1 or 2 and circuit 64 G sensor 1 power supply and circuit 65 G- sensor 2 power supply and circuit 66 Side G sensor and circuit 75 Throttle position sensor and circuit and sensor I have replaced the 2 front wheel speed sensors as they were looking dodgey anyway. I have disconnected the battery and ETS controller to reset it. When I start the car again the error codes come back. I can't really drive it at the moment as I have just had the engine rebuilt and it needs a tune. If I have the 2 front wheel speed sensors disconnected I get 2 additional error codes of 1 & 2 There is 2 volts on each of the connectors that run from the ETS controller to the sensors, so I know the circuits are working. Does anyone have the troubleshooting part of the manual for the r33 GTR ETS? Does anyone else have any more info on the R33GTR ETS?

Don't know exactly where to go down there but you can try SSS Automotive Alternatively take your shaft to a CV reco place and see if they can rebuild it For parts like the bearing have a look on the forums or take it to a bearing place to see if they have something the same. If all else fails go to nissan spare parts. Anything on a GTR is expensive. Good Luck

What's wrong with the current ones? Where are you located? as it will help readers know where you are to suggest somewhere Are you after new or second hand ones? I take it the stub axle is for the same side on the rear? Have you tried a wrecker or a CV reco place?

Get Ben to bring his Datto ute to even things up a bit

So are you building a forklift now?

I'd check them anyway to make sure that they are set even and open at the same pressure. This will help prevent turbo shuffle. This is what I am doing with my new -7 turbos tomorrow anyway and have been advised to do so. You should be able to wind them up so that they open at higher pressure.

Link international is the distributor in australia so you might want to try contacting them first Link International Otherwise places like autobahn sell it. Alternatively Just Jap have it online Just Jap

no they are different. The offset is different due to the different alternators used. I found this out on my 33GTR. Had to use a 32GR balancer to get the belts to line up.

I love the look of black wheels on a white car. Makes it look tough