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Hi mate, do you have the exhaust for sale? If so, what are specs? Cheers

I happen to be doing a bit of wiring work today on my HCR coupe manual, and this plug is disconnected - everything in the car functions perfectly. I suspect it may be for auto transmission variants, but could be wrong. Good luck. Edit - I mean the large plug in your first post.

Cool. Cheers for the info! Have you had it on a dyno, and are you running more than 0.5bar max? Keep me updated when you know more i'm very interested.

Has anybody used one of these on an rb20 before? I'm almost keen to give one a shot due to the bolt-on/standard look factor. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Upgrade-Turbocharger-RB20DET-RB25DET-w-Stage-3-Turbine-68mm-Comp-450BHP-/281199995072?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4178d368c0 Would I expect it to behave similarly to a TD06-20g, maybe slightly slower to come on?

Hey mate, what exhaust is on the car?

Maybe try 2.32? I'm game to try it on the weekend, will let you know how it goes. In the meantime i'll find you the link. https://www.trust-power.com/03electric/Ultimate232_setup.EXE

Running 2.30 with no hassles except for random richness when cold start maps are on. Intermittently it'll drop to ~9:1 afr's and miss for 2 secs, then return to normal. No idea why. Everything else works perfectly fine. Out of curiosity i jumped on trust jap site and saw v2.32 is available. Will try it out on the weekend.

Photos of the rear (handbrake section) would help. It's definitely a windback piston, some calipers do have a screw in the rear for winding back. Give the piston face a few taps with a hammer too, it helps to free them up alot of the time.

Is this an RB20 or 25 at all? Sounds like the hydraulic lifters may have bled down due to sitting for too long. Just keep cranking, for no more than about 20secs at a time without letting the starter cool.

Injector latency? Wait, sorry.. so is it still random stalling at idle?

Is this an auto trans? If so, the auto trans cooler/heat exchanger inside the radiator may have split. Check the auto trans fluid inside the trans for traces of water too (just incase). If it has split, you have 2 options: replacement radiator, or block off the stock trans cooler outlets by linking with a piece of hose and run an external cooler instead. You can buy bottles of cooling system oil remover (500ml from memory) which you add to the cooling system to break down the oil and flush it away. Works really well! If none of this applies to you, please disregard

It won't always be logged. Only if its way out of range, or open circuit.

MAF can definitely give this sort of symptom too. I would swap it with a known working one before pulling apart too much else in the car.

TRW Lucas GP600 is also reasonable, at $65 for 1L

It's not intermittent, and not a common thing to have with these sort of calipers, so i wouldn't have thought that. I will double check though - it wouldnt hurt, cheers.

GTSBoy summed it up in one hit! I've recently gone the bilstein/king spring route. Couldn't be happier. I have a pair of whiteline adjustable swaybars, and the car handles reasonably well for a street car on 205's - not to mention ride comfort is also good (the car is still a daily). If you go down this path I highly recommend some form of front & rear camber correction to go with the springs.

Seen alot of cheap tyres scalloped and giving LOUD noises lately. Check them properly first for sure, if in doubt.. rotate front to back (if possible).

Timing belt tension also has a pretty big bearing on noise (under or over-tensioning).

Compression test next... Sadly

Unique autosports quoted me $675/ pair delivered for Bilstein B6's. Highly recommend these!

All good mate, cheers for the input though.. its always welcome. In alot of drum brake equipped vehicles there is a small rubber disc attached to the end of the brake booster pushrod. It takes up the initial 'grab' effect that some drums have and gives a more gradual feel to the pedal (my understanding). They used to have a terrible habbit of falling off into the booster, which created a crap pedal. Because the skyline is disc brake equipped i wouldn't have though it would need one, but it is an 80's car and its the only logical thing i can think of that would give this sort of sudden symptom. Guess i'll have to rip the booster out on the weekend.

It's not vacuum related, the booster is definitely doing its job. It's just a big dead spot of free travel, once this is taken up its fine.

RB25neo turbo outlet elbow has a nipple in it from factory, this is what i'm using atm on RB20. http://img713.imageshack.us/img713/6276/19690110150523124145615.jpg

No external leaks visible anywhere, not to say it's not leaking into the booster though. Fluid level hasn't changed apart from the normal drop with brake wear. The thing that makes me suss, is that it was so sudden. Like one minute full pedal, the next tons of free travel. I know that its mainly drum brake equipped vehicles that have reaction discs, but i have seen a couple of disc brake vehicles with them drop out (possibly because they use the same booster in a particular model of car as the early drum brake versions). Nissan dealer, and a couple of local brake/part stores have no listing of any such part. Anybody with FAST, that has a spare moment, care to have a squiz?

Having trouble finding anything conclusive, in terms of parts or part numbers. I didn't really want to have to pull the master cyl & booster out in search of my answer either, if i could avoid doing so.