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Hey i seem to be having the exact same problem with the new car. Just wondering if you ever found a cause for the fault? Its really not fun, as the car sometimes cuts out randomly.

Looks like it might be coming from the flange on that 90degree elbow mate. If it is, take it off. Clean up both mating surfaces with coarse emery/sandpaper. Buy some suitable gasket paper, cut it so size and reseal it up with some RTV sealant. Should do the trick!

Looks like that bottom rubber coolant hose on the turbo there is leaking, or the metal banjo fitting is leaking at the O rings. Take the hose off and have a good look at it.. while its off you might aswell replace it. Use new clamps too. If its the banjo fitting leaking, buy a new pair of copper washers to replace the old ones. Its really hard to tell from the photo mate... could even be leaking for higher up on the motor unfortunately. Hopefully its not a welsh plug. Can you take a few other pics from different angles? maybe some from the top of the engine around the turbo too.

Thanks heaps Rekin, thats what i originally thought. But i've been finding mixed results on the weight and power of the vehicle. Some sources say 160kw, some 158kw. Some say 1260kg, some say 1290 etc etc... Does anybody know the exact factory quoted figures for the gtst? And also, how can i tell the difference between a Type M and non-type M. It doesnt have the body kit, but it has the 4pot brakes. So that would make it a type m?

Sorry to threadmine, But; .... would a series 1 r32 gtst be classed as a high powered vehicle in the PRE JULY 01 laws? I really need to know, as i'm considering buying a series one. Thanks guys.

Hi guys... unfortunately my r32 was written off a few weeks ago by an elderly lady failing to give way. And unfortunately, insurance are being very unreasonable with my payout, and i dont want to involve any form of legal action for the sake of the cost and inconvenience involved.. so as a result i dont have alot of dough to play with, so to speak. I'm looking to buy an R32 gtst type M. Heres the criteria: -Must be stock, or close to stock. -must be complied -must be manual -must be in reasonable condition. (RWC condition or close to) The car needs to be located reasonably close to me in VIC. I'm open to all options at the monent, so any pics and details would be very much appreciated. SO if you are planning on selling, or know of such a car that would suit my needs, it'd be great if you could point me in the right direction. Thank you guys. Phil.

Wreckers are fine mate... just make sure its the exact same buckle.

Yup.. i'd say KeyMaker's right there... Sounds like it could possibly be two unrelated problems. Check all piping from turbo to throttle body. Another possibility could be exhaust manifold gasket. Check it for leaks.

No worries mate.. Yeh if she's only a daily driver, and you're not noticing huge oil loss by the dipstick.. then i probably wouldnt worry about the rear main. At least wait till the clutch needs doing (if its manual).

Surprisingly, that button has nothing to do with drifting...

Firstly mate... whats the oil level like? Make sure its at the full mark on the dipstick. Secondly, 10w60 oil is a bit too thick. Try a 10w40, or 5w40.. or something around thereabouts. If you can, take another audio recording of the noise while revving the engine up and down between idle and around 3000rpm. I think the reason it might feel 'down' on power is that its now running on aussie fuel, as opposed to japanese high octane. Its possibly an injector noise, maybe again, something to do with the australian fuel? although i'm not quite sure how that'd affect the injectors directly. Umm.. yeh, try changing the oil and if theres no improvement or change in sound then, i'd probably just ignore it for a while (providing the car seems to run ok, not rough). If its a mechanical problem, the noise will get louder over time, so just keep an eye on things and all should be good.

How many kms has the car done? And whats the oil condition and level like? Does it only rattle when cold? Is it a rattling sound, or a ticking sound? Ticking most likely = noisy lifters. Loud external rattle most likely = exhaust heat shield (if fitted). First step with the boost problem is to check (and check again) all intake & intercooler piping, and check all vacuum hoses in the engine bay.

If you pull the sump off and there is an old gasket on it, you'll have to put once back on... you can buy sheets/rolls of gasket paper and cut your own. Just buy the appropriate thickness paper. If it does require a gasket, be carefull not to over-torque the sump bolts, as it'll squeeze the gasket out. Personally i'd use the permatex stuff on a sump, as it sets semi-solid. As for curing, basically it'll begin setting while you're bolting everything back up and will fully cure when heat is applied (ie, while engine is running). So its pretty saft to refill with oil and start it straight back up when you're done. Just make sure that it definately is the sump thats leaking, and not the rear main... the EJ's also have a small plastic plate on the back of the block (inside bellhousing when trans fitted), just up to the top right of the rear main, that is a common spot for them to leak unfortunately.

Just for the sake of other users (for future reference)... Suave, wouldnt the vacuum leak cause a lean air fuel ratio?

Haha yeh... don't worry i'm used to the economy, my previous car was a TS magna 4cyl auto. lol Nah the magna was surprisingly decent on fuel. It returned consistent 400-450km per tank, which was around 40-45L from full until the empty light would illuminate. The fuel gauge sender was poorly designed in them, so you still had around 15-20 litres remaining when it showed empty...

I'm guessing it was basically a whole tank, as it always took $60+ odd dollars to fill it up. Afaik, the ecu was stock (as the rest of the car was, bar exhaust); the casing looked to be unopened and couldnt see any other signs that it had been removed or even touched. Lachlan33, my ideal solution would be that drivers over the age of 60 should have to re-sit their license tests at least once every 5 years or so. I'm totally OVER old people being on the roads!! it sickens me. This week alone i've had almost another 3 incidents involving the elderly. Two occurred on roundabouts, where the elderly driver did not check for traffic and just went ahead, causing me and other drivers to have to brake suddenly. The third incident, a senior citizen began to cross the road right in front of me, without looking... causing me to lock the brakes and skid to a halt (in mums car). She then stared at me with a displeased look, and i saw her muttering something... I'm just plain sick of it... They call P platers the unsafest drivers on the road for 2 main reasons; 1, they claim we are the most unexperienced. 2, they look at road accident statistics and see that the highest % of accidents were by P platers. What they fail to see is that a rather high percentage of accidents caused by P platers involve only one vehicle, (usually a commodore... uleh) and are the result of an unexperienced driver pushing their car past its limits. Its the elderly accidents that in 99% of cases involve a 2+ car colission, which puts the rest of the community at risk. At least P platers will only disadvantage themselves when crashing, not others.

Bit of thread necroing here lol... If its a foam filter, you can wash it in mild dishwashing liquid without too many dramas. I would never run a foam filter dry, always apply oil. Buy some decent filter oil. From memory you can get a large can of Fuchs filter oil fairly cheap. The reason they spray motorbike filters with silicone is only for water resistance, as these filters are run open to all weather conditions. In a car's engine bay it would see minimal water contact.. so its probably not worth bothering coating it.

I was getting around 180-200kms from a full tank, to empty light illumination.

Hey mate, thanks for your reply but i'll no longer have to worry about this problem. Just for the record, I did do a fuel pressure test and everything was up to spec.. ecu and injectors looked stock too. Umm but yeh.. car was written off a couple of days ago unfortunately *sigh*. I had only previously owned it for 3 weeks. I was T-boned by an elderly lady at a T intersection. She failed to give way. Luckily the car that was behind hers was an unmarked police vehicle... what better witness to have. Worst part about the whole incident is the inconvenience. I'll be without a car for about a month until evverythings sorted out. And as always, i'll end up worse off... So another skyline gone to car heaven... Just out of curiosity, does anybody know the average book value for a 32 gtst? I cant seem to find any for sale for under $10k. Hopefully the payout's decent enough for me to be able to afford another skyline; as i have a heap of brand new parts sitting here that i never got to install. (Heavy duty clutch, racing timing belt kit, boost controller, etc..) If all goes to plan, i'll hope to buy it back from insurance and part the car out. So keep you eyes peeled in the F/s section guys.

Factory spec plugs were made for factory spec cars. Most of our cars here are not stock. As you run higher boost, combustion chamber pressures rise. A higher pressure/compression requires a greater spark to completely ignite and burn the mixture. Which is why even something as simple as advancing ignition timing on some engines may require higher performance ignition gear. I thoroughly agree about the 'suiting correct plug, to correct application' comment...

Exactly, as long as you use the correct oil, and dont drown the filter.. it'll be fine. I'd rather spend the time cleaning oil off my AFM, than having dirt/dust drawn through my intake anyway...

It all depends on previous service history of the car too. Is 60,000 a major service by schedule? If it is, i'd be looking at doing the following; Engine Oil Oil Filter Air Filter Fuel Filter(s) Spark Plugs Bottle of injector cleaner Clean throttle body & pcv system *Drive Belts *Engine Coolant/Flush *Auto Transmission Fluid *Wiper Blades *Brake fluid Top up all other fluids Check operation of all lights Check tyre pressures Check all cooling system hoses Lubricate door hinges, Hood latch, Sunroof, etc... (* items perform if hasn't been previously/recently done) Rotate tyres 'IF' they need to be done. (rotate from front to back only, do not swap from left to right) Umm cant think of much else. Should keep you busy for a saturday though... lol

Hi guys, I'm currently trying to figure out why my car's running so damn rich. Had it tested on a wideband the other day, the results were an AFR of 11.5 @ idle, and the ratio didnt flutcuate with revvs either.. just sat on 11.5-11.6. :s Does anybody have an idea on what would cause the car to run so rich? I've changed the O2 sensor, to no avail. Reset ECU. Cleaned a shitload of sensors and plugs. Cleaned AFM. Would a dodgy TPS cause the car to run rich at all? Next up is the coolant temp sender. Does anybody know of a common part that i can use to replace it with? Or do i have to be on a 3 day waiting list to order a 'skyline' one. Cheers, Phil.

Those are the specs of the 34 cooler right? Sorry.. may fault.. i didnt write my question propperly lol.. I was wondering on what kind of power the stock 32 cooler can handle.. until i can save up and get a new one fitted.

I'm also interested in this thread... as my TPS is under suspicion...