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Sweet... thanks for all the replies guys! Much appreciated. I think i'll try and source a second hand one then. Does anybody know what kind of power the stock cooler will be ok for?

Hey, thanks for the reply. Yeh no track time, and probably looking at about 170-180ish kw max... but that wont be for a while. Still, i'd like to plan ahead. So the r34 cooler is a straight bolt in? or requires modding?

Hi guys.. i've got an r32 gtst, and will be looking at getting a cooler in the coming months. I want to keep to a SMIC if possible... so i was wondering, what are my options.. are there any decent bolt on coolers i can use? I looked at a PWR direct fit one, but i cant really justify spending $1k+ on a sidemount. Cheers, Phil.

I've got a stock rb20det, and that does it too... as others have mentioned, probably nothing to worry about.

You most likely have a cracked heater core... You can bypass it for the time being (until you get it repaired). Theres two coolant hoses in the engine bay that pass through the firewall; disconnect them from the firewall and join them together in some fashion.

Hey mate, just wondering if you still have the TPS's for the RB20... and if so, what kind of condition are they in?

Just had a look... theres basically no other relating codes. *sigh* lol. No luck i guess.... Thanks anyway arbess!

Thanks for the reply. My car has a green compliance plate, which does not have the paint code written at all. Hence why i've been having a few dramas finding the colour of the car. Do you guys need the restamped Aust compliance chassis #, or the original japanese one? If its the japanese one then it's definately HCR32- 293312. Cheers, Phil.

Could somebody please do a readout on: HCR32- 293312 I really need to know the paint code. Thank you in advance.

Theres definately nothing holding the rack/rams at all. Wouldnt the wheels still turn with the hydraulic pressure from the power steering pump? as its all still connected.

Oh ok... sounds safe. LOL So is hicas really feelable? like if i was to dart from right to left quickly at speed, would i feel anything in the rear?

Thanks for the speedy reply Salad. Is there any way to test for rack movement at all? Would i just turn the wheels to lock and watch the rear wheels for movement? Should i try and source another computer and see what happens? Does anybody know what a second hand one is worth?

Hi guys! Hope i've posted this in the right area. I've owned an r32 gtst for 2 weeks now, and today i noticed that my Hicas ECU is missing... Looking under the parcel shelf, theres 3 unconnected harnesses. I definately have the Hicas steering rack fitted. It has the hydraulic lines fitted to it and looks fine and unmodified externally. My steering does not feel abnormally heavy at all, as others have described.. nor does the Hicas light on the dash illuminate. My question is, should it still work? Or is it even working at all (how can i tell)? Thank in advance! Phil.

Sludge Nizer, is a popular engine oil flush and treatment used in many japanese workshops and dealerships. It is performed periodically before an oil change occurs. It's supposed to work quite well...

Avoid using belt grip sprays.. they usually dont do much if anything at all. If the belt is tensioned enough get a stick of dri-lube, and run it along the belt (carefully!) while the engine is idling until the noise stops. Even the slightest bit of grease off the mechanics hands, while fitting, is enough to make the belt noisy.

I can imagine the AFM would have soaked a bit of water... maybe try changing that?

How would this go on a stock 32 gtst? Are any fuel/ecu mods required?

PM'd.

May be interested in both items, if you're willing to post to Vic 3351. Do you know what brand the clutch is at all? and is it only the clutch plate? or whole pressure plate asembly too?

Hi mate.. just wondering which side of melb you're located on. If its not too much hassle i wouldnt mind having a look at the turbo, if its still available.