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Guessing you wouldnt consider separating pairs of struts?

So, my brake pedal turned to crap over the weekend. The initial part of travel is nothing, and then it bites. I know there's nothing wrong with any parts physically (and no, the system doesn't need a bleed), except the master cylinder I can't be 100% sure of. In the meantime i've adjusted the pedal rod to take up the free travel. My actual question is: Do R32's have a reaction disc in the booster? I feel this is the most likely cause.

Bilsteins suit R33 or 32?

Are either (or both) of the intercooler kits a return flow design at all?

Hate to say it, but the only way you're going to get away with it being legal is with larger mufflers/better muffling. Straight through w/ offset pipes counts for a dB or 2 usually also. There's no free lunch here. You're either going to drop decibels or drop kilowatts.

Firing order? Coil wiring or loom hasn't been cut/tampered and reconnected wrong? Massive vacuum leak?

Check and double check again for vacuum leaks mate.

Any chance of pics of both intercooler kits?

Didn't read entire thread, but my pick would be a au/ba/f falcon s/wagon. F6 motor, 6sp auto, and good lsd for the solid axle. Sticky tyres & tune for 400kw+ =

Adding more fuel + air in quantity is one thing, but then altering actual air/fuel ratios can be considered also - which have a direct affect on burn rates too.

It's also normal for the lifters to sometimes be noisy after being removed for any period of time. They make take a while to bleed.

Thanks for the opinions guys. I'm now almost leaning towards saving up for the HPI, just because of the whole 'no fuss fitment' thing.

Apexi active tail silencer.. pretty sure they can do a muffler with it built in too. Opinions seem to vary on it. At the end of the day, any form of silencing of this sort is going to cause a restriction, even if only slight.

Soft sidewalls.. anybody know how many ply? Best bang for buck street tyre i have used to date are the federal 595evo's (fantastic in wet!!) and reasonable in dry when warmed. I paid $140/tyre for 225's in 16's. Haven't used them in larger rim profiles though. These Achilles sound intriguing though.. i'm almost due for a rear pair, might give them a whirl too.

Did you buy the HPI from Justjap? Is the $499 retail about the going rate at most stores, or is it available cheaper elsewhere?

Thats good man, you sound like you're almost sorted. Is the car still on a stock clutch? If so you'll find it'll be slipping after a power up. I highly recommend a Hypergear atr43, for price and ease of fitment! http://www.digi-hard...om/atr43ss.html Save up for a tad longer, and you wont regret it.. rather than getting a chinese ebay turbo or s/hand rb25.

That... can be arranged. Won't bother with the stocker then, it can be used as a toilet. I think i'll just pull the car apart and suss it out (see if w/g flap is fouling) before making the decision. Was hoping there was an easier solution but no such luck. Thanks for the help guys. Muchly appreciated.

http://2.bp.blogspot...ing+Diagram.jpg Is something like that any more help to you? Edit: Nevermind, just re-read your first post.. I feel stupid now

True. I will have the turbo off of the car during the process (exh mani has to come off) so i guess i can d/c the actuator and work the flap by hand for test fitting purposes. Still considering trying the stock one again too. Otherwise when i finally get pissed off enough, i'll throw the towel in and get a new complete turbo back system lol.

This is very true. Even the rb25 will increase boost onset by 750-1000rpm or so. I ran an rb25 turbo on my rb20, and whilst it was a pretty good upgrade over stock, i found myself needing to upgrade again a few months later on due to wanting more power. Your rb25 turbo will get you a safe 180(+/- 10) rwkw on stock injectors. I don't mean to sound like a broken record mate, but don't forget supporting mods if you have none to date (ie, fuel pump, clutch, engine management, etc) If your budget is just for the turbo alone, then highflow is the way. But if you still need to tidy up the other supporting gear too your $1k budget wont stretch too far.

Ahh thats a bitch. Thanks for clarifying.

Ahh yep, learn something new every day . Agreed, its not ideal. The part i don't like about the closed loop, when running with a shitty piggyback setup (standalone is a completely different kettle of fish), is constantly fighting against LTFT. You're either constantly resetting ecu/fuel trims or retuning the map. Not entirely sure about these cars, (but i have found with some others); do these ECU's fuel trimming affect the entire map like reducing a % of total injector, or only the closed loop areas (ie cruise and idle portions)?

How loud are the 'out of the box' 3" xforce systems?

Well this makes things harder lol.. J/k. Cheers Wolverine. The main problem i have is boost control is finicky at best compared to the stock dump. I wonder if my problem is that the w/g flap IS fouling on the dump.. doubt i would have checked that ages ago. You didn't happed to compare either aftermarket one to the stock pipe at all?

That's really interesting stuff mate, thanks for that! So it sounds like that would be a good way to go, i just need to weigh up whether its worth the $ of having the rest of the exhaust re-tig'd to match up to the front pipe, as opposed to just getting the bolt on HPI for $499. I cant seem to find the just jap full length split on their site though. :s The only reason i'm going through this is that i need to remove the exhaust manifold to repair a couple of broken studs, so i figured now was as good as time as any to get rid of my china spec boostspikedump lol.