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At the risk of starting the usual shit flinging contest; why do you consider the split to be better, how much difference in terms of performance is there or is it purely for sound or ground clearance issues? Cheers mate, but i need to keep things a tad more inconspicuous due to the cops around here. Looks like there's not too many options in the short dump pipes. Did anybody notice a big gain in performance from fitting just the dump alone? Mine was so long ago i cant remember.

Haha, cheers for the reply mate. That's fair enough. The main reason i was wanting the flex was that the car has a hacka-tig-together 3" stainless import spec one piece exhaust, which has the cat flanges welded on in a stupid angle. The flex gives a couple of degrees of bend which helps it all bolt up nicely. I would rather not have to have the pipes cut, lengthened & rewelded for the sake of saving headaches, because the cat looks like its mounted slightly further back than stock, which the welded in flex pipe helps to reach. Kinda hard to explain in words. Crazy japs. Though if thats what i ultimately have to do, it's almost worth spending the extra and just getting the HPI. Or if theres no gain to be had, back to stock.

Guessing R33 is more advanced with engine management, but on my R32 i can disconnect the o2 sensor and the ecu runs continually in open loop mode, allowing you to set your own cruise ratio via piggyback. It sets a fault code in ecu, but does not illuminate MIL or have any other limp-mode or adverse affects (providing you have a wideband to monitor things). Might be worth a shot, but my guess is the r33 will throw engine light on.

Did a quick search, to no avail. Sorry if this has been covered, and my search skills are just lacking, but i could only find RB26 info. Basically after a new dump pipe for RB20/25 standard exhaust housing (its a hiflow). Wanting a short dump if possible, similar to the factory one so i can reuse my front pipe, due to it having a flex pipe welded in which i wish to retain. I fitted a cheap stainless split dump about 2 years ago, and immediately noticed it was harder to control boost steadily compared to the stock dump, but could never be farked refitting the stock one so i've just put up with it since. I am aware of the HPI bell mouth style ones which look like a good bit of kit, but $500 seemed a tad excessive to me. Is there any other options out there, what have you had luck with/ or are currently using, or should i go back to the standard dump (only @ 200rwkw)? Opinions/info greatly appreciated guys! Cheers.

If you believe you're getting steam due to blown HG, it means water in cylinder. Get some pressure in your cooling system (ideally using a pressure tester), remove all spark plugs and let it sit for a while (ie come back in an hour). Check all piston crowns for coolant seepage, crank engine over while looking for coolant emission from spark plug holes. Generally if its bad enough you'll notice a miss after the car's been sitting for a while, as coolant leaks into cylinder. The miss will clear after a few seconds usually, as the water clears.

Yes, R32 and S13 rear strut dimensions are identical. Fronts are different due to s13 utilising macpherson type front end.

Preload 'may' also damage strut top stud threads.

The Roadsafe catalogue is good for sourcing part numbers on steering gear too. Then you just roll into your local parts store (ie bursons) and quote them the part numbers.

Stud patterns for manifolds will be the same; intake cam same but exhaust cam slightly different (in lift, i 'think'). I can't tell you about valve sizing differences or combustion chambers though sorry. Somebody should know for sure though.

Possible causes: slight blockage in return line, either gunk in hardline or internal swelling of a rubber hose. Blockage or fault in fuel pressure reg itself. Aftermarket fuel pump delivering a high volume of fuel, which the regulator can not return quick enough. For a start i'd try get a hold of a good quality or known accurate fuel pressure gauge and then go from there. You can also do a simple fuel flow test to determine the actual flow rate of the pump if it's unknown.

Imo, keep the 33 hiflow for the moment and as Fornoyd20 said, get cam gears and a tune - then decide. There's the potential for a gain of 5-700rpm lower boost through cam phasing and ignition timing alone. If you can get it to 'come on' around 4000rpm, that's about the point most turbo's will be doing so on an rb20.

The difference between 117 or 120 shouldnt matter, if its just to get the car running. Just be careful; always turn engine over by hand, with no compression, SLOWLY to make sure there's piston-to-valve clearance before running it. If you feel excessive resistance, stop. lol.

Can't believe anybody mentioned coolant temp sensor or plug/wiring faulty. Check this before anything else, especially if its an intermittent fault. Edit: Sorry, missed the part about weak spark. If coils are standard, they could be at fault too.. Greater load on them during cold start.

Ignitor module failing can give similar symptoms sometimes. Don't overlook it.

Don't lever on them too much, they need an impact force to break them loose.

Extremely interested in KYB shocks, are you willing to post to VIC 3350?!

Would you consider posting front coilovers to 3350?

Would you happen to have a radiator at all?

Would you consider posting radiator and fan to VIC?

Hi mate, i'll grab: rb25 clutch fan with sr20 fan blade - 10 Providing the clutch hub is tight and in working order, and you'll post. (I only really need the viscous hub, don't mind if you send it without the blades). Cheers.

Thats cool, thanks heaps for the reply!

I realise its been a while now; tried to PM you, just wondering if still available? Cheers.

Any of this gear still available?

Nissan spare parts I think part numbers are 80830-04U10 and 80831-04U10 (LH & RH respectively) for the door seals, 76860-04U01 & 76861-04U01 for the window seals that go in the body mouldings. Somebody confirm/or correct me though. Not cheap from memory either.

I've used this sort of thing many times in a few different forms (ie nulon, wurth, AC delco etc.) and so far have found the subaru one to be the most effective. The main thing to BE AWARE of is that i believe the fumes are carcinogenic, so ALWAYS be in a well ventilated (preferably outdoors) area, and use caution while spraying. Aside from that, follow directions on the Subaru can, and have an explanation ready for when the CFA arrive .