_x_FiReStOrM_x_

What's the length?

Any chance of some pics of turbo, if its still available?

Price for dashboard? Any cracks or screw holes from gauges (etc)?

Guessing oil pressure sender?

From what i can gather from the OP.. he can eventually rev it out further. Or am i reading it wrong?

It seems out opinions may differ . Nevertheless it may be a clutch at fault, i'm not ruling that out at all. From what i've seen with clutches though, generally once the grip is overcome and it begins to slip it heats up rapidly and then continues to slip until you release load from it and it cools. - instead of slip-slip then suddenly grip. The OP needs to describe things a little more i think.

Is the coolant temp at the head normal? Also, how much carbon buildup in the cylinders? You could try a cylinder drop test to possibly find a weak injector?

Yep, generally air flow meter, coolant temp sensor, and TPS are the main sensors that affect injector duty cycle.

Apologies, i didn't read correctly/understand it wasn't actually a misfire, i just read hesitation and assumed. As for AFM i've seen a few give bad readings at certain outputs, but still within what the ECU sees as 'acceptable'. The 2500cut will only happen if the voltage is either missing, or way out of range.

Checked valve timing? Cam may have slipped a tooth or two. Best advice is to start simple... check ALL the basics, then if not resolved, start to dig deeper. If i could count the amount of times i've had cars brought in with random misfiring, which have been looked at all around town, and something as simple as spark plugs have been the issue.. i'd run out of fingers to count with.

Either spark breaking down, or AFM fault.. by the sounds of it. Hard to do internet diagnosis' though lol, as most will agree.

Have also sent back a set of ACL's in favour of kings, only due to them being less consistent with tolerance. But with that said, never had issues with any unexpected failures with either brands.

Common problem for some cars (ie, astras, rodeos). If the ecu can't get a good reference voltage the car wont fire. They just crank and crank... Strange problem, i know, but it does definitely happen.

Looks like that 'should' get the car to run. Because you've changed injector correction to the exact specs, you should zero out all your fuel adjustment maps for the moment ( I/J adj. and Airflow Adjustment) as the EMU software will do the -%50 correction automatically for you. Also (sorry if its stating the obvious) are you exporting data to the EMU with the ignition on? Also don't use any throttle during cranking to start the car. If you use a large % of throttle while cranking the EMU will go into flood clear and cut inj pulse i think.

Hmm. Vac sounds a tad on the low side. Check your cam timing - just incase. Edit - otherwise still sounda like a vac leak of some form.

Whats with the makings on No2 Crown? Interference? Any bent valves at all?

Post up your EM2 file if you can, and we can have a look for you.

If you cleaned that off flat, you'll be fine. There's still plenty of taper left to seat on, and oil pressure isn't exactly huge pressure anyway. Not compared to CRDI anyway lol.

Either pressurise the intake with compressed air while the engine is off and search for leaks. Or while the engine is idling, grab a can of carb cleaner (or similar) and spray around pipes, gaskets etc. The idle will change (raise) as the engine sucks in the spray.

Checked for vacuum leaks?

Let me get this straight, you tried to run 18psi. During the dyno run the boost dropped from 18 to 13psi? Or am i way off? Checked for boost leaks?

Have you checked for vacuum leaks? Is the engine management standard?

Ah okay. Easiest way to tell is if a voltage feed goes directly from the relay to the ECU. Then it's gotta be the ecu power relay.

Sorry if this has been posted already. Whats your fuel pressure? Not having a dig at all, but these sorts of threads pop up fairly often and there's never any basic diagnosis done. Just alot of parts thrown at the car in the hope something will fix it. Hope you get it all fixed soon

Generally with used parts, workshops will only guarantee their 'work' not the parts supplied. If you wanted a 99.9% chance of success rate, you'd buy brand new parts (ie the engine). Of course that's not really feasible in this situation, but i'm sure they would've explained to you that as with ANY second hand part, there is always the chance of failure. Most workshops are run by good people, and i'm sure they'd be more than willing to look after in some way with your situation.