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Sounds like you're close to the money with that relay. Start by tracing the switching side of the relay backwards. It'll have to go to an IGN relay or the IGN switch somewhere. See what you find. You'll need a good multimeter to check continuity. Check for dodgy taped-up wiring, that may be touching a 12V constant together with another wire.

Had anything been changed prior to the fault occurring? Or did it just 'happen' one day?

+1 for standard nissan solenoid if you have it. There's no way they can argue it, if its factory parts. They can't prove what duty cycle its running.

Slightly off topic. (sorry) I'm not sure if i'm just a bit slow lol, (actually i probably am), but something i didn't know up until a couple of years ago after seeing some engine dyno results, was that exhaust manifold and port sizes should not be port matched. I've seen alot of people taking to their exhaust ports and cast manifolds with die grinders trying to get a perfect port-gasket-runner diameter match, when infact there should be a 'slight' step in diameter with the exhaust port of the head being smaller than the runner diameter to help stop a bit of exhaust gas reversion back to the cylinder. Edit. Not sure if this particularly applies to forced induction, as they were only atmo engines i saw results for. I guess with the pressure differential between inlet and exhaust on a turbo it wouldnt make a huge difference.

Best post in whole thread! IIRC it was a pretty simple and direct question. 500hp seems to be about right. What sort of power are you chasing?

If loss of compression was caused by detonation problem - workshop at fault for not taking care during tune. (tune should have been aborted at sign of knock). If loss of compression was caused by engine wear/weak bottom end - workshop not liable. Was engine proven healthy by a teardown and inspection? Or was it "comp is good, she'll be right mate". Depends on where they sourced the engine too. Most wreckers or importers have a small warranty period and may replace the engine with another used one. People need to understand that tuning is a high-risk thing, especially with old engines that have no known history.

Just had a quick flick through the thread, so sorry if this has been brought up already. Is it just me or do the previous comments stand out to anyone else? Sounds like you might have been a bit rough with the rings. I'm not sure what technique you used, but you can't really "open them up" and stretch them over the piston if that's what you were trying? You need to sort of roll them on with as little stress as possible. Also, did you make sure they were facing the correct direction/orientation (if applicable to those rings - not upside down) and offset the ring gaps to one another. The other thing that really gets me is the amount of engines that i have seen, which have been rebuilt and not had the bores properly cleaned down after honing. Important, but simple steps people overlook. Sorry to hear about the misfortune, and hope you get it sorted soon mate. Look forward to seeing the results of teardown.

I'll also throw something out there.. i remember when i first bought my current r32, the car only had ~70,xxxkm on the clock, was 100% stock (down the the airbox and exhaust) and ran brilliantly! When cold it drove great, and the transition into the operating temp map was smooth. Then this very same fault occurred, and for some reason it felt very hesitant when cold, and the transition to op temp map was almost 'switch-like' and very harsh - exactly the way my first r32 felt which was a higher mileage car. I always told myself i was going to investigate as to why this happened, but i ended up with a computer and tuned cold start that way. It's certainly a strange thing though. :s

Pics indeed!

Do the struts have any damper adjustment at all? cheers.

Cheers for the parts mate! Forgot to ask while i was there, do you have a factory steering wheel at all?

Pics & price on coilovers?

Any chance of some pictures of the turbo mate?

At $80ea per annum, it's beginning to get very expensive.. not to mention tedious.

Was the neo engine VCT equipped? If so that would be the best base to begin with. Concentrate on headwork & flow, solid lifters, and a highly balanced bottom end to take advantage of high rpm's. Adapt some ITB's, and a clever extractor design. I guess there's many possible options, it all comes down to budget in the end i think.

Would also love to know this. Wondering if anybody has ever had some solid bushes made up, or anything similar to remove these. I seem to be replacing them almost annually - which is a real PITA.

Pics of turbo possible champ?

$300 posted to VIC for injectors & resistor?

Pics of turbo kit possible?

Hey champ, is this still for sale at all?

$400 posted for EMU?

Could you post any more pics of handbrake assembly please? Interested if the top stitching is in decent nick. Cheers!

Interested in pistons & rods if all are in good condition, and you're willing to post to vic 3351. Cheers

hey mate, is this sold at all yet? Cheers.

Consider engine sold! PM sent